New engine or not?
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New engine or not?
Listed below are the symptoms that I bought the car with. I am draining the oil tomorrow to see if there is coolant in the oil. I am losing coolant pretty quick(within a half an hour, but the car has never smoked, at all. So if there is no coolant in the oil tomorrow, what will it mean? Thank you so much.
I bought it assuming that the coolant seals were bad, but I want to just make 100% sure that they are before I spend 2k on a motor. Here are the symptoms.
1.The car over heated with the owner, he replaced the tstat, that didn't work.
2.His mechanic told him that there were bad coolant seals. He sold it to me 2 days ago.
3.My friend Robbie who owns an FD himself came over today. We burped the coolant system a little bit, added coolant and let it idle. It was fine and temp was perfect and there has never been any smoke.
4.We decided to drive it just to see if she would show any signs of overheating. We drove it for about a half an hour and the temp never budged, at stop lights or anywhere.
5.We get back to my house and as I am backing up the hill to my drive way, the coolant buzzer goes off and she began to slightly overheat.
6.The AST which is a 1.3 bar AST cap(which Robbie said could have a small link to the problem) was hissing like a snake and you could hear the coolant boiling and flowing right over to the overfill tank.
7.We are confused as to what it could be, here are the ideas that he came up with.
A.The AST cap is the wrong one and it is sending the coolant over to the overfill tank way too quickly.
B.Since the car was not driven much, and there is like algae down in the AST tank, the coolant system may have **** loads of air pockets, and or a blockage somewhere(this is what RIKKI suggested)
C.And last case and worse case scenario the coolant seals are bad. But the problem he has with this is that even if they are bad you should still be able to drive the car as long as the coolant stays topped off, unless the coolant seals are horrible. But if they were that bad and they leaked coolant that fast there should be **** loads of smoke coming out the exhaust, if not then where the hell is all of the coolant going? I AM SO SORRY ABOUT THE LONG POST, JUST WANT TO MAKE CERTAIN I AM NOT REPLACING A MOTOR FOR NO REASON.
I bought it assuming that the coolant seals were bad, but I want to just make 100% sure that they are before I spend 2k on a motor. Here are the symptoms.
1.The car over heated with the owner, he replaced the tstat, that didn't work.
2.His mechanic told him that there were bad coolant seals. He sold it to me 2 days ago.
3.My friend Robbie who owns an FD himself came over today. We burped the coolant system a little bit, added coolant and let it idle. It was fine and temp was perfect and there has never been any smoke.
4.We decided to drive it just to see if she would show any signs of overheating. We drove it for about a half an hour and the temp never budged, at stop lights or anywhere.
5.We get back to my house and as I am backing up the hill to my drive way, the coolant buzzer goes off and she began to slightly overheat.
6.The AST which is a 1.3 bar AST cap(which Robbie said could have a small link to the problem) was hissing like a snake and you could hear the coolant boiling and flowing right over to the overfill tank.
7.We are confused as to what it could be, here are the ideas that he came up with.
A.The AST cap is the wrong one and it is sending the coolant over to the overfill tank way too quickly.
B.Since the car was not driven much, and there is like algae down in the AST tank, the coolant system may have **** loads of air pockets, and or a blockage somewhere(this is what RIKKI suggested)
C.And last case and worse case scenario the coolant seals are bad. But the problem he has with this is that even if they are bad you should still be able to drive the car as long as the coolant stays topped off, unless the coolant seals are horrible. But if they were that bad and they leaked coolant that fast there should be **** loads of smoke coming out the exhaust, if not then where the hell is all of the coolant going? I AM SO SORRY ABOUT THE LONG POST, JUST WANT TO MAKE CERTAIN I AM NOT REPLACING A MOTOR FOR NO REASON.
#2
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Coolant seal failure frequently is accompanied by combustion gasses entering the cooling system, and causing a severe increase in pressure... this exceeds the 1.3 cap and the entire system is then vented and a lot of coolant is purged leaving you with a large amount of gas circulating in your coolant passages and your temps start to increase. It progressively gets worse from happening only at high rpm/high boost application to cranking up and being surrounded by your very own personal rotary coolant cloud. I would pressure test the system, get a carbon monoxide test on your coolant and bank on that new engine, good luck.
Richard
Richard
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if you don't Rag out your Motor, it can be rebuilt at KDR for far less than replacing and will have all reliablity mods.
I'd say the seals are bad if the car overheated and coolant is loss. My seals were bad and the car ran fine for about 4 months then.... well lets say 4k and counting.
I'd say the seals are bad if the car overheated and coolant is loss. My seals were bad and the car ran fine for about 4 months then.... well lets say 4k and counting.
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