MazdaMike

ok heres whats happening. i get the coolant light on startup and light smoke (but smoke isnt a suprise as its pretty cold wen i start her up 30-40 degrees F) anyway the coolant light could be caused by the coolant level sensor or whatever sensor it is under the intercoolar piping by the water pump. the wire on it is bent and the metal is exposed (its looking a bit rusted also) so yea the coolant light normally goes off after the car is warmed up but then it will randomly go on for a 30 sec or so span every now and then.

ok next problem, i had this last time the coolant light was going off b4 dave at KDR fixed everything. my brake warning light goes off on acceleration and most driving acually unless im going slow. i was told something that it could be a vacuum leak in the brake master cylinder.

next problem heh, extreme hesitations. this one is strange. cause it doesnt always happen. from when i first start the car until it warms up, is shut off and restarted i get it actually. like the engine will start accelerating stop then start again but even faster.

the car has a very lumpy idle, recently it idles around 1200-1600

um the car sometimes has very strange throttle response and bad acceleration. it seems that when i cold start the car the throttle response is delayed and the car doesnt want to accelerate.


ok now here is a situation that occured recently that never happened b4. i was driving my dad to pick my mothers car up and i was driving around town first to let her warm up b4 i got onto a highway. temp was about mid range but the coolant buzzer was still on and the car was hesitating a lot and throttle response was very delayed. either way i got onto the highway and started giving her gas in hopes of warming her up and i watched the temp gauge start going above half way to about 3/4 up!. i got scared and pulled onto the grass and killed the engine. got out made sure the coolant and oil were both full and they were. got back in the car started her up and she was fine. no more weak throttle no more coolant buzzzer (well off and on later on but not staying) and the temp didnt rise above half way.

this is really pissing me off cause it seems like im having ignition problems but i had a new coil pack installed a few months ago and replaced one or two injectors i forgot. only thing i can think of are maybe spark plugs, it has been around 10k since they have been changed. im gonna have a friend to the vacuum lines for me and also change the plugs with platnums but i wanted to know if the problem may lie somewhere else.

heh oh yea one more very weird thing. i have a greddy turbo timer and for any of u familiar with it, it plays this annoying tune as it counts down. but some how without my doing anything to ot or anything the tune changed. it is a totally diff tune and now sometimes, the thing will count down like 7 seconds or so and kill the engine on its own (its set for 2 min 20 sec) very odd i dont know it just seems like its a whole new car and it is pissing me orr. i hope u can make sense of my blabber heh and try and help me out.

-Mike

P'cola FD

Ok, here's a quick answer. Put new plugs in for sure. After 10k miles you need it. See what that does. Also, check to see that you have enough fluid in your brake resivior. That will make the light come on as it sloshes the sensor around. Have you had your thermostat changed? You may want to do that as well, and thouroughly burp the coolant system. Hope that helps.
--Danny

Liemoanh

First things first. Take care of the coolant light. Check your caps to see if they are still good and holding. Low coolent will make the car hesitate and act very funny. When you checked your coolent on the side of the highway you probably thought it was still full but at that point it was still boiling. Check it when it's completely cooled off.

Extreme hesitation, is this when you driving and it does this or when your at idle. I've had a problem before and it was like your driving and then it feels like your fuel just cuts off and then it comes on again. I've had it even as bad as when the car starts to jerking for about 5 seconds everytime I accelarate. My fix was a 4 gauge wire to the altenator to the frame. 100% fix for my hesistation.

MazdaMike

yea i was thinking of going with the XS-Engineering ground wires. i read an articla about them they did a dyno on a 300hp rx7 and it gained an avg of like 8 or so hp at the wheels along the power curve. like 15hp at some points. sounds like a deal to me 100 bucks for 10 hp heh i just gotta figure out where to find it. ill check the coolant again. also when i check the coolant should i burp the sys first or what

RX7SpiritR

iTrader: (1)

I'm new and just got my car, and I want to know which friekin cap do you add the coolant to? Please show a picture as to it will help me that much more, trust me I need the picture with the cap circled...lol. I just don't know though cause there is like 3 caps!

redrotorR1

Lumpy idle usually indicates a vacuum hose leak. The high idle rpm also might be the MAP sensor. I would check ALL your vacuum lines (replace with silicone, if you haven't already); and also check the idle screw underneath the UIM. I can't imagine how it would have worked itself all the way down; but if it did, it would screw up your idle speed royally.

The hesitation problem is 100% definitely a grounding issue. You probably don't have to spend money on the XS kit; you could do it yourself. I found that a couple of extra grounds from the grounding harness ( ... only on an RX-7 would you need to ground the grounding harness) did the trick.

The coolant light issue is something to worry about. I agree with the above posts ... check the level cold. Then, open up the hood when/if it goes off again. You might have a leak somewhere that you can't see. I found a leak from the AST to the filler neck ... it was a pinhole so it just sprayed all over the smog pump and intake hoses.

The brake light ... is it the brake warning light or the e-brake light? I had a problem with the e-brake light going off during acceleration. The fix ended up being just adding brake fluid (it was down to about 2/3). Anyhow, good luck.