Need some opinions on what could be keeping my engine cold
02-25-17, 05:44 PM
#1
Need some opinions on what could be keeping my engine cold
Looking for ideas/help thanks.
So highway driving (Yes i know it's cold out right now) are 165-168f temps. Summer was around 174-176f. i just did a 8374IWG install from turblown. I had 99 twins and the temps where the same. So I was driving around today cus i need to play with the fuel maps (logged about 30 mins of driving). After about 25mins I did a pull in third gear from 2600-7800rpm, temps did rise went from 167got to 183 held for a few then started to drop. Fans did not come on. I have them set to come on at 195f Low and 205f high. I logged the run so i can see it all. But anyway. is this possibly another bad thermostat that is staying open? Is there a different thermostat say a 190 instead of the stock 180 that would help bring temps up? I'm really hesitant to keep working on my fuel cells esp since it's not running warm enough.
quick run down:
New coolant 50/50 mix 3 months ago
Koyo Nflow racing rad 53mm (2 1/16 in) thick
.9bar cap (stock i believe)
mazmart water pump
dual stock oil coolers
OEM thermostat (replaced last summer) do to the same issues which did not solve
my sig isn't updated:
Turblown 8374 IWG kit
AEM coils dir fire
Adaptroinic ECU
ID 850 pri, id 2000 sec with FFE fuel rail
FFE 60 tooth trigger wheel
So highway driving (Yes i know it's cold out right now) are 165-168f temps. Summer was around 174-176f. i just did a 8374IWG install from turblown. I had 99 twins and the temps where the same. So I was driving around today cus i need to play with the fuel maps (logged about 30 mins of driving). After about 25mins I did a pull in third gear from 2600-7800rpm, temps did rise went from 167got to 183 held for a few then started to drop. Fans did not come on. I have them set to come on at 195f Low and 205f high. I logged the run so i can see it all. But anyway. is this possibly another bad thermostat that is staying open? Is there a different thermostat say a 190 instead of the stock 180 that would help bring temps up? I'm really hesitant to keep working on my fuel cells esp since it's not running warm enough.
quick run down:
New coolant 50/50 mix 3 months ago
Koyo Nflow racing rad 53mm (2 1/16 in) thick
.9bar cap (stock i believe)
mazmart water pump
dual stock oil coolers
OEM thermostat (replaced last summer) do to the same issues which did not solve
my sig isn't updated:
Turblown 8374 IWG kit
AEM coils dir fire
Adaptroinic ECU
ID 850 pri, id 2000 sec with FFE fuel rail
FFE 60 tooth trigger wheel
02-26-17, 02:06 PM
#7
So I replaced the thermostat for ***** and giggles. It's cheap enough right. I ten realized the fans come on at 180. and drops the temps back down. Have it in the driveway warming up. Mind you i can't hear the fans come on...LOL So i see the temp get to 184 and it starts dropping. So i get out to have a look and WALLA fans are ******* running. Looks like the guys who did the work on the car for me a while ago put the FC fan switch in? Can i just disconnect that or should i get the fd one and replace it?
Last edited by knotsonice; 02-26-17 at 02:51 PM.
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02-26-17, 02:49 PM
#9
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In winter one should block off one oil cooler inlet. If you don't, your oil temperature will be too cold. This also affects water temp.
If you do not believe, get some temperature sensitive strips that go from about 120 - 200F and put one on the engine front cover oil outlet and one on top of the oil filter. Drive around like this and record the oil temp range. Then block one oil cooler and with new strips drive around again.
If you do not believe, get some temperature sensitive strips that go from about 120 - 200F and put one on the engine front cover oil outlet and one on top of the oil filter. Drive around like this and record the oil temp range. Then block one oil cooler and with new strips drive around again.
02-26-17, 02:55 PM
#10
I just went threw my receipts with the shop that did my org work when i had a rebuild done... I think i found the culprit.. pettit's 185deg fan switch..... I disconnected it and temps in the drive way went to 195 before i turned her off. Plugged it back in and the fans came back on. Think i need a new thremofan switch...
I'm not knocking the oil temps. I want to get those logged also. If i can get this corrected first like i said i'll be buying an ssi-4 so i can get fuel/oil pres and oil temps logged. I just need to fins a spot where i can get the oil temp. lots of searching coming soon.
I'm not knocking the oil temps. I want to get those logged also. If i can get this corrected first like i said i'll be buying an ssi-4 so i can get fuel/oil pres and oil temps logged. I just need to fins a spot where i can get the oil temp. lots of searching coming soon.
02-26-17, 05:10 PM
#11
Update. I just went for a drive to check on the new thermostat.. So Much better it's 38 outside and temps while cruising were at 177. a lot better than 165. so I went from 2 shitty thermostats to a better one. what a bitch.... this has been going on for some time. Seems like thermostat quality has gone to ****. Would you guys stick with the 185 fan switch or go with the fc one?
02-26-17, 07:23 PM
#12
It's not hurting anything. It'll help keep your coolant temps down in the summer. Your car isn't running dangerously cold. Lots of people run lower temp thermostats(75c, 167f) and fan mods to keep temps down on their FD. The stock FD turns the fans on too late.
One reason I don't like the aftermarket dual oil coolers setups is they only have one thermostat, which is not the best. If yours is like that, then Ceylon's advice about covering one is good. The stock dual oil coolers have built in thermostats on each cooler.
One reason I don't like the aftermarket dual oil coolers setups is they only have one thermostat, which is not the best. If yours is like that, then Ceylon's advice about covering one is good. The stock dual oil coolers have built in thermostats on each cooler.