need help changin stock twin turbos. first time changing it out and was woundering if anyone out there has a site that i can go to for instuctions step by step. i dont want to mess anything up. thanx

 

A FSM will probably be the best aide in the removal. If you don't have a FSM, then got to http://www.fd3s.net and look at the one there.

 

I did mine about a month ago and it wasn't as bad as I first thought. Just remember to hook everything back up. I forgot the coolant line and when I filled the radiator up(which I replaced at the same time) I had coolant going everywhere.

BTW the oil return lines are the biggest pain to me, well at least the front line.

 

This might help you. It's a pic with all the bolts needed to remove the twins circled. One of the gurus(Mahjik/Rynberg/Dave/Dale) made it.

 

A couple of things not in the FSM that will help are, remove the heat shield for the ABS (you can wiggle it out from under the ABS unit without removing any lines.) and if time allows, remove all the stuff around the turbos, soak all the down pipe and turbo nuts with a penetrating oil and let it sit overnite.

 

1. Disconnect negative lead on battery.
2. Jack up car.
3. Place weight of car on jack stand.
4. Drain oil and coolant from car
5. Lower car back to ground level.
6. Remove all intake hoses connected to air box.
7. Remove air box (if you have one)
8. Remove IC plumbing between Y-pipe and IC
9. Remove all accessory belts.
10. Remove the air pump.
11. Disconnect O2 sensor at back of UIM.
12. Jack up right side of car.
13. Place weight of car on jack stand.
14. Remove tranny under shield.
15. Spray all exhaust bolts on DP with WD 40 or Liquid Wrench.
16. Remove all exhaust bolts/nuts holding DP (don't worry if studs come out with nuts).
17. Remove the heat shield on turbos.
18. Disconnect turbo oil lines from engine block (for and aft of turbos; use combination of 1/4th" ratchet and 10 mm socket and 10 mm box end wrench)
19. Unbolt the rear intake pipe from intake side of secondary turbo.
20. Spray all bolts/nuts holding turbo to manifold.
21. Remove all bolts (two bolts and 6 nuts; requires 14 mm socket and one 12 mm socket)
22. Crawl out from under vehicle and then lower vehicle
23. Remove Y--pipe.
24. If you have a stand alone boost controller, remove the vac lines to the solenoid from the waste gate and turbo housing nipples.
25. Disconnect the vac lines to the wastegate and preturbo solenoids from the actuators.
26. Disconnect the oil feed line using two 17 mm wrenches counterposed so as not to stress the pipe.
27. Pull the coolant lines to the turbos (2 in number, both at front end of turbos, with one above turbos and one below).
28. Pull turbo housing off of mounting studs by shifting housing toward passenger side of car.
29. Find a buddy.
30. Have buddy gently pull/pry a/c lines at front of wastegate and preturbo actuators to get clearance.
31. Pull turbo housing out of car by moving housing slightly forward while lifting the nose of the housing upward out through the narrow opening.
32. Remove remaining portion of heat shield from turbo housing.
33. Remove oil lines and coolant lines attached to turbo housing.

Now is a good time to replace coolant lines to turbos even if they are still fresh. Also replace exhaust gaskets if they appear to be breaking down. Most of the gaskets for the turbo plumbing can be retained as they are metal gaskets. Vac lines to actuators/solenoids should be inspected for cracks/leaks and replaced accordingly. I try to leave the factory lines here as 1. they are very durable lines and 2. some contain restrictor pellets.

Blow out the oil and coolant lines previously detached from the turbo housing to be sure they are clear of all old oil and coolant.

Tape off the intake and output openings on turbos so as not to drop something in them before the plumbing is reinstalled.

Reinstall new/rebuilt turbos in reverse order.

(And no I am not nuts! I just happened to replace my turbos over the weekend)

 

Nice detail, JD.

If you don't have a buddy (step 29), I take the time to remove the pc and wg actuators while it's in the car. Then when I go to remove it, I unthread the last stud and use the free hand to lift it straight out of the car. Take your time and wear sturdy gloves so that it's not uncomfortable and you can guide it out carefully.

Davee

 

I had no problems with the PC and WG actuator, and the ac lines, I just twisted the turbos around and they just came out.

 

Today I went into the process of removing the twins. Everything is unbolted, but the twins don't move at all! I just see a 1mm or 2 movement, while looking at the loosen oil feed line and doing big effort. Did someone had same problem? Is there a way to strongly handle the twins to make them slide on the studs?

 

you missed something
The twins slide off the studs pretty easily once everything is detached and unbolted

 

I took some pictures:

rear turbo housing


center


Front turbo housing


Oil inlet + water in and out removed/plugged


No picture of both oil returns but they are unbolted.

Forgot something?

 

It looks like it should come out. I've seen cases where the studs are a little off or something and it gets bound up. you may need to use a pry bar to get it past the studs. Also if it starts coming off crooked it can bind on the studs.

Dale