ghost-rider

Another idle problem, or actually it's more of an rpm problem. Idle stays around 850-900rpm and is nearly perfect, some small irregularities but I think it should be normal, the tach needle bounces just a little bit maybe 20rpm. From idle to 1300rpm everything is ok, from 1300rpm and higher the rpm are not constant. For example if I hold the rpm at 2000, there is a continuous surge/hunting. It doesn't stay at 2000 but will jump to 2500rpm and back down to 2000, constantly. However, I was able to get the idle is nearly perfect. I took off the UIM to replace the coolant hose going to the throttle body and polished the manifold and put everything back together. There seems to be no loose vacuum hoses. At the same time I set the tps within spec following the instructions I found here. I've been able to set it to:

closed:
1.00
0.44

open:
4.96
4.35

as far as I understand that's within spec. but with this setting the idle was surging/hunting, so I tried to adjust the bolt underneath the tps and I got it screwd in almost completely and the idle is nearly perfect but as soon as rpms hit 1300, it starts surging/hunting.

Another problem I found was a connector on what I think is an ISC. One wire completely broke off from the connector and another was barely hanging on, so I soldered them back on, could they have shorted and damaged the ISC? Is there a fuse/relay for it?

At the same time I also installed a greddy fmic with greddy elbow/compression pipe, so the hose that was attached to the oem elbow is unplugged now as the greddy elbow has no connection for it. This hose goes to the ISC, I believe, is it supposed to see vaccuum/boost? or can I just plug it? Can it be a dirty/sticky ISC causing this problem?

Before putting the manifold back on, I cleaned the throttle body with some throttle body cleaner and I also sprayed it inside the manifold, perhaps I shouldn't have done that, may be this caused all the oil and residue and what not to accumulate in the ISC and made it 'sticky'. Is it possible that it would go away after driving? I cleaned it about a week ago and just started the car today, I've been finishing up with the I/C install.

please help

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

All I can say is you really need to STUDY section F of the field service manual.
If you understand something about the engine systems, you will be better informed about how to solve problems.

This is very obvious from "At the same time I also installed a greddy fmic with greddy elbow/compression pipe, so the hose that was attached to the oem elbow is unplugged now as the greddy elbow has no connection for it. This hose goes to the ISC, I believe, is it supposed".

WRONG! The manual shows very well what this is for and where it goes.

ghost-rider

I love it when people can't/dont want to help and just say study or search that's very helpful. I appologize in advance if I may seem impolite or rude...I did search, that's how I came accross ISC and how to disable it. All that manual showed me was that the hose is a part of accelerator control system (was that difficult to say, or you had to make your self look rx7 literate) it still doesn't tell me what could cause the idle problem, is it supposed to see vaccuum or pressure? The surging idle was present before I installed everything but it wasn't constant before, it would surge a little on occassion and settle back down.

Well, I understand enough to solve problems, that was not my question though. I was hoping that someone had similar effects and how they solve it. All I asked for was some help, may be someone else removed their uim or installed a greddy fmic and had similar idle problems. I will solve this on my own, if no one is willing to help, the only downside is that it will take a little longer. The reason I asked about that hose 'weather or not it's ok to plug it' was because I've seen it plugged on someone elses car here on the forum, I was just wondering it there are side effects to that. Anyway...I drove the car today and the idle is screwd up, it's around 1300 rpm and bounces, boost doesn't go over 5 psi, check engine light is on and I can't read the codes until thursday. Someone had to have similar problems. What could it be? When I disabled the ISC (in the diagnostics box) Idle dropped down to about 750 -720 rpm as it should and stayed there, but again if I increase the rpm up to about 1300 - 1400 it doesn't hold it and starts bouncing, as soon as turn ISC back on idlel jump from 720 rpm to 1300 and bounces but never comes down below 1300rpm.

oilrag22

Isn't there a way that if you ground the testconnector near the battery, to read the fault codes through the blinking of the MIL???

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

You really need to start by pulling the codes.

Other than that, the hose you are asking about is the AWS hose. Just remove the system and use block off plates:

http://www.2751engineering.com/fd_block_off_plates.htm

ghost-rider

Well, I got a computer hooked up to my car and there are no codes, the cel light goes on only when the turbo timer takes over, so I assume no problem there back to the beginning. I took off and cleaned the ISC valve/solenoid yesterday, it didn't seem all that dirty, but anyway. That didn't help, although it's a little bit better now, idle occasionally settles down at 1200 rpm but it's only occasionally. Idle is very rough when the car is cold (the whole car shakes) but when it warms up idle is relatively smooth but bounces and never gets below 1200rpm. I've done a fan mod a while ago, I found instructions on this forum, and if I turn the fans on idle stops jumping and stays at 1200rpm, nothing else helps...if I turn on the a/c and/or lights it doesn't help, idle still bounces. Could it be the exhaust EGR causing this? I'm trying to go with the elimination process. I set the TPS within the specifications, cleaned the ISC and checked it, it seems to be working I'm sure I've got all the vacuum hoses connected in the right locations (I took a picture of where each hose was connected before taking off the manifold and reconnected everything according to the picture) Is it possible that the vacuum lines would cause this kind of idle problems if they were connected to the wrong place by the previous owner? He had the motor rebuilt recently. It wos working fine when I bought the car, just a little high idle so I adjusted the bolt on the t/b to close the plates a lttle and it was fine at around 850-900 rpm, now everything is messed up.