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Narrowing down to my low 4500rpm boost problems

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Old 10-22-09, 06:27 PM
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Narrowing down to my low 4500rpm boost problems

Ok, as some of u may know, I have been struggling with boost issues. As of right now, I get a 10-7-5 boost pattern. I noticed that the charge control actuator rod goes in when the engne is on idle, and when i shut the car off, the rod comes out. According to the troubleshooting guide, it's only supposed to do that when you pull off the hose to chamber A of the charge control actuator. So what I wanted to ask, is what is the usual cause for this. I'm planning on testing the charge relief and charge control solenoids. I should of done that when I changed out the turbo control actuators. Does the charge control actuator fail sometimes, or maybe the plate inside the y-pipe has a lot of buildup. Any suggestions, please let me know.
Old 05-06-12, 03:32 PM
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This is a mad old thread, but did you ever figure this out?
Old 05-07-12, 01:02 AM
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Old thread but if it helps somebody i might as well post. Charge control actuator can fail here is a video of a bad one and a quick no tools test to see if diaphram leaks. Mine failed and i found it while diagnosing boost leak.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AlTGf...e_gdata_player
Old 05-07-12, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Eternal_Gamer
According to the troubleshooting guide, it's only supposed to do that when you pull off the hose to chamber A of the charge control actuator.
i want to disagree with this..

maybe i understand this wrong, but if

cca solenoid is ON it applies vacuum which pulls the valve arm. (key ON, engine OFF)

cca solenoid is OFF it applies secondary boost which:
- if secondary boost equals primary boost, then the arm comes out, opening the valve
- if secondary boost is substantially less than primary boost, then the arm remains in, valve closed.

so, IF:
1) the engine is not running
2) the key is OFF, solenoid is OFF
3) secondary pressure equals primary pressure because engine is OFF

THEN:
1) The arm will move back out because the key is OFF


What to take away from this is that if you perform the troubleshooting test by
- running the engine
- verifying that the valve arm is pulled in
- then turn off engine
- THE KEY MUST BE MOVED TO THE ON POSITION BEFORE REMOVING THE HOSE

this will test the sealing ability of the vacuum system operating that actuator and Chamber A.

the test shown above with the video will check the pressure side (primary boost) Chamber B

Last edited by nismosilvia270r; 05-07-12 at 04:14 PM.
Old 05-10-12, 02:22 AM
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I just pulled vacuum with my mityvac and watched it all leak out after 2 seconds. Trying to find a used one because damn these things are expensive. Anyone use Pettit's?
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