envyforrx7

iTrader: (6)

I got 89,xxx miles on my R1 and it is showing signs of white smoke during start up, hard start when hot, coolant spitting out of the engine, wet plugs, and buttery oil in the spout. So if you have any of this symptoms better bite the bullet and take it apart quick because it will be more costly when you keep on abusing the car with all the symptoms above. My overhaul is not smooth of course snapped few bolts on the way so I need to drill 'em out and tap it with heli coil. I am not too worried about it since only one snapped in turbo and it is only for the cover. I notice a lot of rust on some of the bolts since this car is not originally in California so I can sense it is somewhat driven in snowy season. I learned a lot about this car too, this is my first time working on rotary engine.
Well, let me get on with my story

Day1 Sunday!

First thing I did where getting all the necessary gasket and seal sets from vendors all over.


Apparently still not enough tools this is just my personal stash and more on harbor freight and sears


taking out the hood is not necessary but since this is my first time working on this car I took the necessary precaution


You can see the racing beat front sway bar support after clearing out the bar that connects to intercooler.


Next tackle was the downpipe and what is that grease on my turbo, no it is not the oil pan it was the oil line to the turbo. Gasket was shot and no this is not easy task after bitchin all the time taking the downpipe apart.


This coolant hose usually leaks out, I am on top of this I recently replaced that one and boy so easy to just pull it out when they are new.


I got tired and did the next step the next day, since I notice that the wire on the ECU needs to be taken out and the ABS unit is on the way so I took a rest before I destroy things.

Second day ( I better bleed this right when I returnt this unit) is there any way to have this mod like remove the ABS unit? I don't think this is necessary when you drive a sports car and they weigh about 20lbs. or so.


After doing this I was ready to yank the rotary out then I encounter a problem since I do not want to remove the transmission and I got stuck on that bad boy tried to shake it and shake it some more... Ooh I was pist off and yes start cursing at the car again. But I figured go to the forum and there goes the answer it was right in front of me all the time. There was a cover in tranny stating pull type. After reading forum and manual I came across this link
http://youtube.com/watch?v=uPCi4RpGQCU So beautiful thanks for the forum. But after figuring this out I was about too take the transmission along with the pull but I notice the oil will leak out if I pull the driveshaft and I had a hard time taking out the bolts that hooks up with tranny this is the support going all the way to differential but I did manage to take out the cat - I quit after that!

3rd Day

Went to sears and got me the bad boy socket 2 1/8 and the adaptor 3/4 to 1/2 sorry I am not keeping this tool since I don't have use of this I will return it after I use it.


So let us continue, tackled the AC system dang forgot to take pictures on this one but you get the picture just make sure to unplug all the connectors in there because if you don't AC compressor will not kick in if you damage one of the wires along with it and not they are not easy to take out since the power steering is on the way you get the picture on this one I hope.
Dont forget the sensors and the grounds that is connected to the block on this side driver's side I should've taken pictures but sometimes I was impatient that I don't want to stop.
Careful on fuel lines here there are few I hope I remember to put them back on to the right lines haha but I have the manual so it is cool. Then went underneath the car again and take out 4 10mm bolts covering the transmission with warning sign on "Caution pull type" something like that thanks for that video I inserted screw driver push it in and the drive gear slowly came back I was happy.

This was beautiful sight for me!
[

I went ahead and took out the mounts, passenger side is shot I am researching on Mac Master Carr on this one it is somewhere in this forum for like $65 bucks or so for 6 inches. Can someone give me input on those.


And yes expect this for this mileage and I was the first one to crack her open


The bad news for everyone I can share if your spark plug looks like this!!! You know what to do - overhaul!


I was tired after that and I quit!

4th day - did not work on the car I slept and relax since I am doing this late afternoon so I stay up late since it is cooler in my garage and it was 4th of July.

5th day -


clutch out


front bolt did not gave me a problem at all


Thermal bypass information, guys don't buy the $10 unit this makes sense



How did I stop the bolt - the bullshit way haha. Notice that I bend the bolt I don't remember where this bolt goes but I have to replace it somehow - Osh or homedepot should carry this item. This chain was also the chain I used in my cherry picker it is the chain that you use in trailers, boats and stuff for safety cheaper than any item I can think of and super strong - bought in harbor freight.


This was the culprit of my oil leak it was a damn gasket for the oil line to the turbos which looks like it was the oil pan leak but its not at all. So check 'em


Afte the front cover is out, there was a minor slack in my chain I will check it later for allowable slack.


Ahh, torrington bearings


Well guys I reached the max picture allowable plus it is late so more pictures tomorrow. I hope the pictures are clear for everyone to see and for those of you who want to try to do this expect headache but worth it and no I am not done yet this is just the start. I am on my vacation for one week and this is how far I get well more pictures to come since I got everything in pieces today and cleaned out the short block I did have the water seal damage due to mileage it was brittle and flat.

FD3S2005

iTrader: (11)

great.. very detailed

turbodrx7

iTrader: (43)

I spotted the cause of all ur problems, its the fram oil filter.

JK, but seriously, dont use fram, they blow ***, get a k&n or mazda filter.

-Austin

envyforrx7

iTrader: (6)

So after taking out the bolt for thermal bypass I encountered problems again this one is the last bolt that will hold the turbo I rounded one of the bolt and it was the hardest one and my solution. Notice the shiny thing on the left so far that was the only bolt snapped. I did not have to take it out but I want to see how this unit looks like inside. This is really different from my old car which is also a twin turbo 3000GT VR4 spyder.



There were few of this at sears I had to get the longer socket since it was deep and there arent any rooms to put the socket to turn this bad boy. After trying and bitchin again I hammered this bad boy down and boy she came off



Upon inspection - minor cracks and rust heat shield is in bad shape but reusable I will just go ahead and paint it with high heat spray paint.


Upper intake, I really wanted to take out upper and lower at the same time but no can't do that too many hoses and sensors connected to the upper intake. Notice how clean my silicone hoses yes I just replaced them like 5 months ago.


The buttery spout which equals to blown coolant seal




Connectors - once you tackle this bad boy there is no turning back. Returning the stuff back on. We shall see!





And the last bolt that I wanted to avoid flywheel bolt this headache tops them all. Should I resurface the flywheel? The solution how I take it out is replace the bolt I bent to a shorter and much stronger bolt same chain. Just a regular breaker bar will not work I had to use leverage so I grabbed the jack and remove one piece of that arm insert inside the breaker bar and oh yeah instant leverage. After so many tries and cursing nothing! Sprayed with D-40 and nothing trying it just like that nothing and the engine stand starts to lift boy was I pist. Solution grabbed the cherry picker put it on top of the engine stand and tried it again. I was literally riding on the breaker bar tried it three times with enough force and the third time she came loose and the socket fell to the ground makes a good big sound since she is huge. But I was happy since I got the mother bolt out




And there she is and in good shape too, the water seal is just brittle and they just fell apart. Internals are all intact, apex seals housing no major scratches I was happy. Yes I premix on top of the OMP the 2 stroker stuff that you buy at walmart, paid off since it was cleaned and not a lot of carbon build up.



Housing


Rotor rear bank


Middle

envyforrx7

iTrader: (6)

The front bank which is the one that had wet spark plug this was the culprit they were old and brittle just like the old hoses on the rats nest the were in terrible shape






front housing






another broken water seal





Cleaned her up a bit and today is inspection time so I will post again later. Hopefully nothing bad. I doubt that there were anything bad since this car was never overheated, lets just knock on the wood.

spandy

iTrader: (1)

On that aluminum driver side mount, you can just get another steel passenger mount to replace it, and I picked up some urethane mounts from banzai racing. Might help clean up any tranny slop if you don't already have a torque brace.

supraturbo1987

iTrader: (4)

this is a great thread for reference!

Trev

wstrohm

None of my business, but I would very strongly urge you to consider trashing any silicone hoses you are using that are exposed to hot oil. Why? Go to this website and click on item 7. The results clearly show that both the stock BUNA-N and Viton are better than silicone for hot oil applications; Viton wins by far.

FD3S2005

iTrader: (11)

then why do people say to get silicone hoses? and i also use fram oil filters and i think they work pretty good

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

I've used Baker Precision silicone hoses for years. IMO, the best hose for the money. Even after several years, the hoses did not turn into rocks (and my car was tracked many times during those years).

http://www.bakerprecision.com/hosetech.htm

FD3S2005

iTrader: (11)

aww they dont have yellow