Zoolander

iTrader: (8)

Okay, I'm in the midst of my first major job - radiator/AST/hoses R&R - and I've got parts and bolts EVERYWHERE in my living room. You DIY'ers with a garage...I envy you! Random thought.....everyone talks about the plastic end tanks of the stock radiator, but no one's mentioned the plastic drain plug! Are you serious Mazda - plastic? Mine was stripped and I had to drill it.

First, if I decide to leave my car as is right now (everything in front removed) and work on it slowly...I only have the weekends, if that...is there any danger once we hit winter and sub-freezing temps without anti-freeze in the car? My search did lead to one comical post where someone asked about using 100% water full-time..and rationalizing to park the car in the sun come summer to "thaw it out" before driving.....like a block of ice.

Second, is there any reason the stock IC duct has the "cup" for the AC can on the right? Someone said that it grabs air after the rad and pushes it into the IC. The cup has a small slit in front and a hole in the back. It seems air is escaping that could go to the IC. Can I just cut this off? (More for easy re-installation than actual performance enhancement). Any purpose of this besides making life harder? Does that can need to be cooled? I'll eventually go after-market, just not now.

Seems like it'll be fine on both, but I thought I'd risk persecution and ask. Thanks.

adam c

iTrader: (2)

I cut away 1/2 of the cup, for easy removal of the duct. The radiator has been designed to be removed from the underside of the car (see the FSM). If you do this, there is no need to remove the intercooler duct.

ArmitageGVR4

iTrader: (13)

First: the problem is water expands when it freezes. If you have just water in your engine over the winter, when it freezes and expands, it can crack the motor. Anti-freeze lowers the freezing temperature of the water. If you have drained the motor and leave it over the winter, there will be no problems.

Second: Probably the plastic mold was made that way for ease of manufacturing. The receiver/dryer canister does not need to receive airflow, as the condenser (radiator looking thing in the front) handles the heat extraction duties of the refrigerant. It's probably not worth worrying about either way, I'd just leave it alone until you replace the I/C and ducting.

JM1FD

iTrader: (1)

One good thing about having the receiver dryer sitting in that duct is that it prevents the receiver dryer from picking up heat from the back of the radiator which is a good thing in terms of A/C system performance. How much of an impact this has on system performance is hard to say. I can say that there is a company that makes refrigerated receiver drier assemblies for older Porsches which make a noticeable difference in cooling performance.

You should also note that the duct in question provides air to the battery. This is important for venting the hydrogen gas away from the battery as well as cooling it.

If it were my car, I would leave the duct as is. The people who designed it they way they did know FAR more about the operating parameters and needs of the various systems of the car than you or I do.

Zoolander

iTrader: (8)

Thanks for the quick replies guys. I've already removed the radiator from the top...someone said this was easier and I didn't want to mess with the sway bar. In doing so, I had to work the canister a bit to remove the IC duct....trying to avoid this step when going back in. I don't want to bend those lines anymore.

Sounds like the cutting has been done and it's safe. I've heard before that it's for the battery, but don't people re-locate the battery to the rear bins all the time safely? I do agree that the manufacturers know more than us....but then again....plastic end tanks, plastic drain plug, plastic AST, no boost gauge, chipping paint, etc etc.....