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my first brew rebuild

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Old Oct 17, 2009 | 07:32 PM
  #26  
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ya well, w/e lol.
now, the irons are done. finally got everything done and now were just waiting on him to get the parts for the rebuild and then we can move forward from there.
now for the pictures
heres some of the pics of the wet black in powder and fresh out the oven.









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Old Oct 17, 2009 | 07:35 PM
  #27  
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and now it all together.
nevermind the exhaust manifold, its mine, i just wanted to see how it looked against a clean *** engine.
DUN DUN DUN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!











so, thats if for now until he can get the superseals and the other stuff.
ill tell you what, its almost a shame to build this engine. its so clean, and so nice, you could almost lick the engine.
anyways, ill be posting further when he gets the ****

Lloyd
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 01:37 PM
  #28  
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hey leonard. when you getting that rebuild kit?

Lloyd
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Old Oct 27, 2009 | 03:22 PM
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so, he has started buying the rebuild kit, we should be having this thing running soon (i hope)

Lloyd
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Old Oct 27, 2009 | 03:37 PM
  #30  
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Very nice color choice. Looks very very nice.
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Old Nov 2, 2009 | 03:50 AM
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looking great!
only question i have is...
why "super seals?"
are you planning on running mickey mouse ra seals?
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Old Nov 5, 2009 | 02:59 AM
  #32  
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i dont really know what hes planning on doing. all i know is he said he wants to run super seals, but i think the rest of the stuff is going to be oem seals. im not terribly sure
ill have to ask him next time i see him

Lloyd
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Old Dec 7, 2009 | 07:13 PM
  #33  
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is that tape in the water jacket holes? or did you fill those up accidentally?
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Old Dec 8, 2009 | 12:51 AM
  #34  
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why didnt you ceramic coat the housings? also why did you do one chrome and then redo it blue?
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Old Dec 8, 2009 | 04:49 PM
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^^The chrome is a basecoat for the blue...

Those housings look great!! I am looking forward to seeing pics of this installed in a car.

If I was your friend I would just use oem apex seals...
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Old Dec 8, 2009 | 05:14 PM
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looks awesome.

I wouldn't have coated those front cover dowels or as much of the gasket surfaces as you did though. Coating at the studs raises the manifolds away from the mating surface a bit and creates uneven compression of the gasket. Not sure if it'll end up causing gasket failure, but it's something to think about.
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Old Dec 9, 2009 | 12:46 AM
  #37  
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how much is a machine/gun to powder coat? also was it safe to use it in your home oven?
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Old Dec 23, 2009 | 03:13 AM
  #38  
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stupid ab;oinweoagnwega
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Old Dec 23, 2009 | 03:17 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by puhpaper
is that tape in the water jacket holes? or did you fill those up accidentally?
everything you see was taped up as per required for a proper powdercoating job. i have been doing this for 3 years now, im very precise in my work

Originally Posted by KingsBlade
why didnt you ceramic coat the housings? also why did you do one chrome and then redo it blue?
he didnt want to pay 150$ per housing to ceramic coat (have them sent in, where they blast the part, ceramic coat then bake at 700 degrees) plus, the powdercoat was only for looks, and its perfectly fine considering that the heat retention is virtually 0 over non coated housings. and yes, the chrome was a basecoat, when doing paint or powdercoat, in able to get a certain look, you have to multicoat things sometimes
Originally Posted by oo7arkman
^^The chrome is a basecoat for the blue...

Those housings look great!! I am looking forward to seeing pics of this installed in a car.

If I was your friend I would just use oem apex seals...
this isnt my engine, but i would use OEM as well, were just doing what he wants, its his money
and thank you, it will be a while until the engine is done

Originally Posted by alexdimen
looks awesome.

I wouldn't have coated those front cover dowels or as much of the gasket surfaces as you did though. Coating at the studs raises the manifolds away from the mating surface a bit and creates uneven compression of the gasket. Not sure if it'll end up causing gasket failure, but it's something to think about.
anything you see thats coated where it shouldent be was taken care of with the porting sanding bits, i had to clean up a whole bunch of stuff due to the oddity of the tape job. if you were to send in parts to the powder coater, they wouldent clean anything up, they dont care, i do, its what i take pride in, my work

Originally Posted by KingsBlade
how much is a machine/gun to powder coat? also was it safe to use it in your home oven?
i use the craftsman gun, its ok at best. i want to get the columbiacoatings gun, its soooo nice, but i cant afford 600 bucks right now, the craftsman is only 80, and also about the oven. its fine if you arent doing 10 jobs in a day, i do 1 every couple of weeks, but i am sure to clean the oven THOUROUGHLY before i put any food in it. i cooked chicken in that oven the same day as the pictures were taken, tasted awsome

any other questions? lol

Lloyd
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Old Dec 23, 2009 | 03:34 AM
  #40  
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about the front bolt removal methods... the boys in Japan seem to have it figured out.

http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=...12/QMRszpqmKRg
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Old Dec 23, 2009 | 03:31 PM
  #41  
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hm, its seems as though there was a tiny amount of black rtv. see, thats not the 6 oz of rtv red that was there. trust me, if it were THAT easy, i wouldent have mentioned it.
see, i like to use my snap-on mt725 impact on the flywheel nut, the front was impossible.
im 280, 6'4, we had 4 feet of pipe on a short impact socket and me jumping on it.......do the math, WAY over a ton of pressure

Lloyd
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Old Dec 25, 2009 | 07:10 PM
  #42  
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Thumbs up

Damn dude, that's pretty sweet. XD Like the powder coating. XD
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 05:45 AM
  #43  
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we tied one side of the engine to a dryer and had two people sit on the dryer....
lifted the dryer up - before the nut broke loose....
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 06:59 AM
  #44  
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thanks for the eye candy.
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 10:15 AM
  #45  
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NICE Thread Man Keep up the good work nice and clean
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 02:10 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by MrNizzles
about the front bolt removal methods... the boys in Japan seem to have it figured out.

http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=...12/QMRszpqmKRg
If only mine were that easy. I did lots of torching, etc. In the end, it took a 4 foot pipe slipped over the end of my 1/2" Kobalt ratchet. I was worried the ratchet would break, but it held up just fine. The one on my FC zipped off first try with an impact gun so I guess they're all different.
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 08:42 PM
  #47  
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now, as soon as my friend gets a job again (everyone we know got fired over like 3 months from the same pep boys) then we will move forward. its sitting at his house collecting dust...........plus, we need to get his FD from the ATL, the car will be nice when were done with it...............one day.

Lloyd
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Old Feb 3, 2010 | 10:20 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by magus2222
now, as soon as my friend gets a job again (everyone we know got fired over like 3 months from the same pep boys) then we will move forward. its sitting at his house collecting dust...........plus, we need to get his FD from the ATL, the car will be nice when were done with it...............one day.

Lloyd
It's gonna have like 20" spinners on it and everything.. jeeaaahhh!
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Old Feb 7, 2010 | 02:20 PM
  #49  
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hot, i will go with a blue, probably not that blue tho
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 05:46 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by DaleClark
BTW, on the front pulley bolt, Mazda does say to use RTV on it in the shop manual. The FC's use a copper crush washer on the front pulley to prevent an oil leak, on the FD you use RTV instead. The RTV doesn't make the bolt harder to remove, but the FD's front pulley bolt is torqued tighter than the FC and, of course, you have a good 2" bolt slathered in "don't remove me" Loctite.

The front pulley bolt is always a chore to remove. You pretty much have to have the engine secure (like on an engine stand) and the engine locked to keep it from moving. You can either use the flywheel lock tool or do what I do, bolt a chain to the rear iron then to the flywheel, works great and is quite simple to do. Then get a BIG damn breaker bar and put all your weight on it.

To do it with an impact gun you'd need some sort of he-man gun, like a 1" drive gun or something absurd. I've yet to see an impact gun that can EASILY get the front pulley bolt. Instead of dorking around with heating it and working the gun for an hour, get a breaker bar and be done in 2 minutes.

Anyhow, good luck with the motor!

Dale
One really easy way to get it off is to hit it with some Freeze and Release right after you heat it up good to melt all that goop on the bolt. It'll pop right off with a 3 foot breaker bar.

I had 2 engines I tore down, even took one of the bastards out to the Mazda dealership to have them hit it with their big bertha air gun and it wouldn't budge it. Brought it home and did the old heat and freeze on the bolt and it spun right off.
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