Ok, I pulled my plugs today and took a few pictures. I thought I'd ask everyone here before I spend $25-$50 on new plugs.

 

is the top one the leading and bottom the trailing? that's pretty much what mine looked like exactly, if that's the case. i cleaned mine off and the engine ran a little better, so i'd try that. if not, the plugs always need changing in our car anyways, so it's not like you'd be wasting money. i also had the same brown sticky buildup on my trailing plug, but only on the front rotor. any idea what it is?


PS. orreily's has the NGK platinum plugs for our car for like 7 bucks a peice. you'll probably have to order them, but it's still worth the savings, considering most rotary shops charge about 9-11 dollars per plug, right?

 

yup, the top one is leading. my car won't start at all though. I foun some oem plugs at napa for about $7, so I'll be going with those.I have no Idea what the build up is, mine was the front rotor too. maybe runoff from the oil filter during a change???? well, I'll swich out the plugs and hope that helps. I'll keep you posted.

 

mine wouldn't start till i cleaned the plugs either. now it just stays rough. hey, you might check your turbo pre-control selenoid and wastegate selenoid to see if those are the ones making the noise. they're the onl 2 selenoids you can get to without havin to take the UIM off, it might be a little tricky tho. i daignosed that the turbo precon sel. was where my clicking was comming from.

 

I changed the sparkplugs today, tried unflooding the engine and nothing. I checked for spark and I had spark. so what do you think? fuel pump? egi relay? I'm lost now.

 

Was there alot of fuel when you unflooded it or not alot of fuel.

 

it didn't seem like much, I could be mistaken. it just smelled like gas for a sec then went away.

 

the brown goo is the knock sensor goo melting and running down onto your sprak plug on the front rotor. To clarify, The top spark plug in the engine is the trailing, bottom plug is the leading. I wasn't sure if you were talking about the picture above when you said the top was the leading and the bottom was trailing...just wanted to make sure.

Tim

 

yeah, I was talking about the picture.

 

when you pulled the plugs was there fuel on them like they were wet? The reason is ask is becouse I just found the sorce of my friends buzzing. One of his secondary injectors went bad always dumping fuel into the engine.

 

my plugs were dry, I had tried unflooding the engine several times before pulling the plugs though. did your friend have the idle motor buzzing too?

 

ok, so I just went outside pulled open the diagnosis box and grounded the fp terminal. turned the key to on and didn't hear anything from the fuel pump. did I do the test right? if so that would mean bad fuel pump, right?

 

You should hear the fuel pump come on once the ingition is turned to the on position. Open the lid put your ear to it and have someone turn the key. If it comes on its working. If it doesn't come on check the fuse behind the drivers side kick panel. If the fuse is good and the pump still isn't working then get a new pump.

The clicking could be a stuck injector. They can stick open or closed so you may have a primary injector that's stuck closed.

 

No it idel motor wasn't bad I was flooding and making a bad noise. You can also T a fuel pressure gauge in to the furthest forward fuel line to do a fuel pressure test. If you get a solid 30psi your pump is good, also if it drops pressure quickly to zero you have a problem.
Was it your Idel motor that was buzzing? Now is the car not making a noise and just not starting?

 

master tao, check the to see if the turbo pre-control selenoid is making your clicking, cuz that's what my problem is. the bigger problem is that the selenoid isn't bad, but something else is that's causing it to cycle repeatedly.
mine starts and runs, tho, just really shitty.

 

ok, I just did that and...... nothing. btw, you got a pm.

 

still making the noise but not starting. but I think I narrowed it down to fuel pump.

 

Well good luck. Let us know if you fix the problem.

 

I most certainly will. I hate threads that ask for advice on a problem, but never post solutions.

 

Mine made the buzzing sound from the ICS when it wouldn't start as you described, it ended up being my leading ignition coil that was dead which is why the car wouldn't start.

-Rob

 

would that keep my fuel pump from starting though?

 

[QUOTE=Fritz Flynn]You should hear the fuel pump come on once the ingition is turned to the on position. Open the lid put your ear to it and have someone turn the key. If it comes on its working. If it doesn't come on check the fuse behind the drivers side kick panel. If the fuse is good and the pump still isn't working then get a new pump.QUOTE]


IIRC, doesn't the fuel pump only make noise when fuel is required, i.e., it's silent if the fuel pressure is already pumped up?

 

possibly but I hooked up the diagnostic terminals under the hood and to my understanding the pump should have fired up under those circumstances.

 

dave the pump runs all the time. the regulator will bypass more fuel if it is at the correct pressure and bypass less when demand is high. listing through the fill door is a good quick check, but you need to know what you are listening for. a funnel in the neck helps amplify the sound. it will only turn on for a sec when you turn the key to the on position. it will stay on with the fp grounded in the diag box. get a test light and see if you have power on the feed going into the fp.

 

well, she runs. I hooked up my new walbro pump and she fired right up. too bad I killed my battery trying to "unflood" the engine