Does anyone know where to buy the motor mount bracket on an FD? I pulled the engine on my car and noticed some kind of aluminum aftermarket motor mount bracket and the rubber mount was broken. I can't just replace the mount like you can on the stock bracket because the alum one is like dipped in rubber or something. So I'd like to get a new or old stock bracket. Can anyone help?

 

Ummmm, you lost me. Got pics? I'm not sure what you're talking about.

 

I'm at work now so I found an image of the stock ones with the motor mounts attached. One of mine is stock and the other one is aluminum but the motor mount is not removable.

 

im pretty sure thats a stock heat shield on there

 

Is yours a 93? If so find some late 94 and 95 engine mounts. On those years the mounts don't have a dip on one of the sides. So all you have to do is get you some Polyurathane and make your own.

Here is a thread about how to make them. The mounts in this pic are 95 (they don't have a bump where the rubber goes).
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...t=motor+mounts

 

Hey sorry to jump in here but on the motor mounts, does the heat shield go on the driver or pass side? I just got mine in and have never dropped an engine into an fd.

 

Well I think the motor mount on the passenger side would benifit more with the heat shield since the turbos are on that side.

 

Yeah, mine is a '93. So you're saying that aluminum one was stock in 93?

I've attached a pic for those that are confused



dcinnati - The heatshield goes on the passenger side.

 

So I can't use the polyurethane inserts with my 93 mounts? I thought all I had to do was drill a hole and put a bolt through to hold them in.

 

that's good to know they were stock, when i saw that i was thinking... what kind of idiot would just change one of them out to aluminum and not the other?

 

You can is that you need to have the polyurathane fit there. Meaning that you need to make a hole for it. This is where it gets messy But for $40 and a little bit stiffer mount, I think is worth it.

If you do it with the polyurathane spacer on both side like the thread shows you will not feel no vibration at all.

But if you can find a 94+ it will make things A LOT easier

 

good to go. Thanks

 

Just ordered the 80A polyurethan 6"L 3"Diameter Amber from McMaster and gonna put it together soon.

 

I checked out www.mcmaster.com stuff is a little expencive for just 6" x 3" comes out to around $60+ or more. But for 48 inches I could make around 8 sets and it would be just over $35-$40 a pair figuring in the studs and stuff, if you go with 3" x 3". Is 3" diameter pretty much the norm or can you go 2-1/2"? Going with the 2-1/2" stuff would drop the cost by about $10...

I'm always thinking about getting stuff cheaper than normal. Would anyone be interested in getting in on something like this if I bought a big rod? Yeah, I just said, "big rod".

 

I did the same thing. I got me a long rod. I was able to make 2 more sets and i sold them. Deffently made my money back on them. But you want to stick to the same thinkness.

 

I've read a few mount threads, but it doesn't seem that anyone has tried 60A urethane. why is this? seems like the perfect solution for the added vibration people complain about with urethane mounts.

 

I use 80 and I didn't have any vibration issues.

 

By looking at the durometer scale on www.mcmaster.com the 60A is comparable to tire tread. I'd be willing to say the stock ones are probably about that hard. You'd probably fix the vibration problem but you'd be where you were with the stocks. I don't know... that's just my guess...

 

Just made mine and installed the motor... 80A shore. One big key is putting urethane on both sides (adding that little extra section on the bottom). This will take care of both push and pull forces exerted on the mounts/subframe.

 

and eliminates vibrations

 

How big was the urethane you put on the bottom? Would something like a 1/2 inch disk be suitable?

 

Yeah that would work good, I think mine was even a little smaller then that. You will have to either cut the sides off or make the diameter smaller though. You need it to sit flush, by looking at the bottom of the subframe you can get an idea.

 

I used the aluminum mount, just cut a bigger hole in one side of one mount. Made the hole tight enough that the mount could be pressed onto the bump. I have a pad under the subframe as well and get a tiny bit of shaking when first starting out, probably just need to re-learn to drive the car now that the motor isnt just flopping around in there. Very smooth at cruising speed. I would definately do it again, no need for engine torque brace with these mounts!

 

just to recap:

your going to need 2 pcs of 3" Dia x how long?(2 1/4" - 2 1/2") for the mount
and 2 pcs of 3" dia x 1/2" thk for the bottom.