More Proof that Fuel Pump Rewire Improves Fuel Pressure
08-08-06, 06:52 PM
#27
Originally Posted by nicad2
Yep, that's a good idea. I was showing the changes I had used in the test. Here is the wiring diagram with the extra ground. There are still more things that can be done such as eliminating the fuel pump connector (B1-06) and hardwiring everything it.
You can simply take the blue wire that normally feeds voltage from the ignition switch and run it to constant power on the distribution block.
The relay is still ignition switched, however the power for the pump itself is no longer ignition switched. I made this change and added a second ground, and my voltage went from 11.6V at the pump to 12.9V. The alternator was putting out 14.1 volts at the time.
08-18-06, 05:55 AM
#29
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Those are military spec environmental crimp splices. When heat shrunken they do not allow any intrusion of corrosion causing enemies. I haven't seen them available to the general public. We didn't always use the correct tool to do the crimping, a pair of safety wire pliers and know how work just as good.
08-18-06, 07:48 AM
#31
development
Originally Posted by sevensheaven
We didn't always use the correct tool to do the crimping, a pair of safety wire pliers and know how work just as good.
www.digikey.com
www.mousser.com
it's been a few years...I'll look for the p/n's this weekend.
09-02-06, 10:42 AM
#32
Originally Posted by nicad2
In order to prove that replacing the fuel pump wiring improves fuel pressure I have been searching for an electric fuel pressure sender to hook to my powerfc. Though I still haven't found the perfect sender yet, I have proven it indirectly!
https://www.rx7club.com/rotary-car-performance-77/logging-fuel-pressure-529948/page2/
09-02-06, 03:28 PM
#33
That's a nice simple wiring setup to keep the stock resistor in place, although my only concern is that if the fuse you added blows, you will end up with low voltage on the pump again (hopefully not while you are under boost). It would be nice to have a setup for which the 'deafult' situation (that is open relays etc) yields high voltage to the pump.
Originally Posted by nicad2
The attached picture shows the service manual wiring diagram with the changes I made. My approach is different than some others in that it does not eliminate the "low speed" resistor. Also, the additional relay is controlled by the original high speed signal from the ECU (pin 1K). Therefore, the stock low and high speed behavior is maintained. This should improve fuel pump life as Mazda intended. I left out the user-specific details such as where to attach the 12V ign signal, wire guage and relay capacity, etc. How these items are chosen is really up to you and what works best for your car.
01-07-07, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by sevensheaven
Those are military spec environmental crimp splices. When heat shrunken they do not allow any intrusion of corrosion causing enemies.
for the average joe, soldered connections are better...crimp connections can easily pull apart
01-07-07, 02:24 PM
#39
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Originally Posted by KX500FD
yeah, and how many people are going to use that?
for the average joe, soldered connections are better...crimp connections can easily pull apart
for the average joe, soldered connections are better...crimp connections can easily pull apart
01-07-07, 02:39 PM
#40
Please somebody help!!!
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The right solder for the job won't have a significant resistance. they use solder on pcb's for-goodness-sakes. if you're going to over engineer something use a rosin core flux solder and then crimp the connector to be absolutely sure that no humidity or FOD will get into it. Then do your heat shrink to ensure further that no FOD will muck up the connection and to hold the wires still and prevent fraying.
EDIT: is there a quantifiable improvement from raising the voltage. i absolutely understand that better flow is well...better but what does it mean? Is this a reliability thing or does it mean that we can tune for more power on the stock fuel system?
EDIT: is there a quantifiable improvement from raising the voltage. i absolutely understand that better flow is well...better but what does it mean? Is this a reliability thing or does it mean that we can tune for more power on the stock fuel system?
01-07-07, 03:06 PM
#41
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the voltage drop associated with ths stock wiring can cause fuel delivery to drop off when you need it most (high rpm, high load)...Steve Kan has written about this in other sections
the stock plug above the fuel pump cover is so cheap and the wires inside the tank are so small I've had the car refuse to start because the voltage drop was so bad (or the connection was corroded)
I noticed a 2 V jump after I rewired it with 10 gauge and ditched the plug
the stock plug above the fuel pump cover is so cheap and the wires inside the tank are so small I've had the car refuse to start because the voltage drop was so bad (or the connection was corroded)
I noticed a 2 V jump after I rewired it with 10 gauge and ditched the plug
01-07-07, 03:12 PM
#42
Originally Posted by NissanConvert
The right solder for the job won't have a significant resistance. they use solder on pcb's for-goodness-sakes. if you're going to over engineer something use a rosin core flux solder and then crimp the connector to be absolutely sure that no humidity or FOD will get into it. Then do your heat shrink to ensure further that no FOD will muck up the connection and to hold the wires still and prevent fraying.
EDIT: is there a quantifiable improvement from raising the voltage. i absolutely understand that better flow is well...better but what does it mean? Is this a reliability thing or does it mean that we can tune for more power on the stock fuel system?
EDIT: is there a quantifiable improvement from raising the voltage. i absolutely understand that better flow is well...better but what does it mean? Is this a reliability thing or does it mean that we can tune for more power on the stock fuel system?
01-07-07, 03:19 PM
#43
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Originally Posted by TRISPEEDFD3S
HAHA! you said FOD!
01-07-07, 04:09 PM
#44
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The average Joe doesn't know dink about soldering! The crimper and environmental splices shown above are better than solder. People who really know have been properly instructed in both crimping and soldering. I personally have a military electrical / electronic back ground and have been educated in both types of connections.
01-07-07, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by sevensheaven
The average Joe doesn't know dink about soldering!
I had the work professionally done, and it was all soldered
this is picking at nits
01-07-07, 06:11 PM
#47
I remember reading an AMP technical paper on why the proper crimp tool, crimp connectors AND wire are all a "system" that when used together the crimp basically "fuses" the two metals together.
Cheap crimpers and cheap connectors will NOT make the same gas-tight connections as needed on aircraft.
I did find an article from "Import Service" magazine on the subject and it's test on how on high-current connectors, that the solder melted.
I am a FIRM believe on relays for high-current / voltage-sensitive devices (e.g., head lights). Try relaying your headlights as well, you'll love it, esp. if you use E-code headlights . . .
I ONLY use Bosch or Hella relays on high-current and high-reliability items (e.g., fuel-pumps; horns; headlights; etc.). I've had too many cheap relays fail.
BTW: I crimp and solder . . .
:-) neil
Cheap crimpers and cheap connectors will NOT make the same gas-tight connections as needed on aircraft.
I did find an article from "Import Service" magazine on the subject and it's test on how on high-current connectors, that the solder melted.
I am a FIRM believe on relays for high-current / voltage-sensitive devices (e.g., head lights). Try relaying your headlights as well, you'll love it, esp. if you use E-code headlights . . .
I ONLY use Bosch or Hella relays on high-current and high-reliability items (e.g., fuel-pumps; horns; headlights; etc.). I've had too many cheap relays fail.
BTW: I crimp and solder . . .
:-) neil
Last edited by M104-AMG; 01-07-07 at 06:27 PM.
01-07-07, 07:15 PM
#48
Please somebody help!!!
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Originally Posted by TRISPEEDFD3S
Yes. I'm on the freaking Aircraft Carrier USS NIMITZ. I get out in July! YES!
BTW: I crimp and solder . . .
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