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MOP removal with stock computer

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Old May 15, 2007 | 03:49 PM
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MOP removal with stock computer

Please forgive me if this has been covered before. I couldn't find it with a search.

If the MOP is removed and left connected (plugged in) but tighed off somewhere in the car.

Will the car still throw a code and go into limp mode?

If so what is the fix for this (resistor(s) connected somewhere perhaps)?

please help,,, thanks...
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Old May 15, 2007 | 03:55 PM
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You would have to leave the oil metering pump still plugged in otherwise the ECU wouldnt be able to detect the stepping motor and position sensor ,, but to be honest what would the advantage be then. If i was gonna remove the oil metering pump id want to remove all the pipes and wiring and block it off, then go premix (the only way that can be done is apexi power FC). just for reference if you unplug the metering pump with a standard ECU 100% you will go into limp mode.

I dont beleive its possible to put resistors in to copy the metering pumps process, its just a little more complicated than a basic thermo sensor.

As long as its still plugged in it wont throw up a code.
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Old May 15, 2007 | 04:00 PM
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Ok, I have the MOP blocked off and am pre-mixing. What I have done is zip tie the MOP unit up in the front of the car. I grounded its body to the chassis, and its still plugged into the harness.

So the computer should still sense the stepper motor, but is there a feedback which will not be tricked by doing this. If so is there any way around it like adding a resistor in line with the feedback wire to ground.

I'm sure someone has done this in the past, perhaps with one of the many modified stock ecu's (knightsports etc).
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Old May 15, 2007 | 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by slo
OIf so is there any way around it like adding a resistor in line with the feedback wire to ground.
Unfortunately it's not quite that simple. About every 2 years the topic comes up, but I've never seen anyone do it successfully using the stock ECU. The people running without it are generally running a Haltech or something that can't drive it (i.e. there no reason for a majority of the people to remove if their ECU can drive it).
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Old May 15, 2007 | 05:13 PM
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It works, so far, got it to run out of limp mode, this is an REW run of the stock computer in an S5 FC. It turned out to be something else putting it in limp mode (its embarrasingly simple).

after reading the FSM and highlights I see no reason why the method I am using (mop still connected to the computer but tied off to the side) shouldn't work.


BTW haltech E8 and E11 can drive the stock OMP.

There is a reason not to use it, even as stock. Ever tear apart an engine after 50K.

Ever tear apart an engine after 50k that has been premixed the whole time.

If you ever do you will never use the OMP to inject engine oil again. The carbon comes out of the premix engine far easier and there is much less of it. The apex seals and housings also look much better, even including the seal grooves.



Originally Posted by Mahjik
Unfortunately it's not quite that simple. About every 2 years the topic comes up, but I've never seen anyone do it successfully using the stock ECU. The people running without it are generally running a Haltech or something that can't drive it (i.e. there no reason for a majority of the people to remove if their ECU can drive it).
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Old May 15, 2007 | 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by slo
after reading the FSM and highlights I see no reason why the method I am using (mop still connected to the computer but tied off to the side) shouldn't work.
It should work. The ECU just needs the signal from the MOP.

Originally Posted by slo
BTW haltech E8 and E11 can drive the stock OMP.
Most commonly used Haltech for the FD is the E6K which doesn't support it.

Originally Posted by slo
There is a reason not to use it, even as stock. Ever tear apart an engine after 50K.

Ever tear apart an engine after 50k that has been premixed the whole time.

If you ever do you will never use the OMP to inject engine oil again. The carbon comes out of the premix engine far easier and there is much less of it. The apex seals and housings also look much better, even including the seal grooves.
I would say that's not a real test. You need to monitor the type of oil used and the driving habits. I've seen engines from cars which have been run on road courses for a majority of their lifespan with the OMP, they have a completely different look than street driven cars.

Its your car, do what you like.
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