Or you can get the teflon coated silicone coolant o-rings I have, and not worry about them failing ever again

 

The way I see it, it decreases engine temps by ~10 degrees F, and must help keep the heat down on those 2 little thermal reactors we refer to as the stock twins. I've seen motors pulled apart that had used synthetic for an extended period, and there was no "combustion chamber coating." As a matter of fact, the rotors and housings looked almost like new.

 

Why not? I've been using the stock filter for 3 and a half years...

 

Mobil One doesn't break down as fast as conventional lube oils and that allows you to go longer between changes, which is good. Metal filings, from normal engine wear build up in your motor oil as it circulates and if you change your oil less frequently their presence can accelerate engine wear regardless of oil condition, which is bad. The RX-7 oiler cooler(s) do not properly drain when you change the oil, which is bad.

I believe that the most cost-effective approach to RX-7 oil changes is to use a conventional oil and change it very often, like every 1500 miles. It probably is less expensive than using Mobil Oil, over such a short mileage the conventional oil doesn't break down appreciably and it keeps the metal filing content to a minimum.

 

I have a hunch that this Fram filter is better than the stock one, as well as the Bosch high-performance filter. I only want the best for my FD. I understand that I'm crossing the line between precaution and insanity, but I just want to baby my car until I get over it naturally, as opposed to cold-turkey. My wallet is bruised, but not broken. Until then, BRING ON THE GOOD STUFF!

-Jon

 

I heard that the synthetics generate more ash when burned and can clog the cats. Is that true?

And yes, I suppose it doesn't matter if you're running full exhaust anyway.

 

Well, Scrazo buddy....If you only want the best for your FD, I'd suggest selling that hideous spoiler on the back Then your wallet won't be as bruised either...

Just my 2 pesos dude

 

Metal filings, from normal engine wear build up in your motor oil as it circulates and if you change your oil less frequently their presence can accelerate engine wear regardless of oil condition, which is bad.

that's why these new high effeciency oil filters kick bootie

I was skeptical at first, but I'm telling you, this Fram X2 sucker really does the job, it keeps your oil cleaner alot longer than the stocker or a regular aftermarket filter, and it's about twice as big (plus it has the grippie stuff on it so you get loosen it easy)....give it a try

jonski, most auto stores should stock it, I think it just says "rotary" in the Fram catalog....don't worry, it fits

 

Oil control rings are the components that show how little wear is happening due to the type of oil you are using, and NOTHING beats Mobil 1 synthetic for reduced wear of this critical component.

I did not believe it till I saw it with my own two eyes, I changed from being partialy sponsored by Castrol to paying full price for Mobil 1, I will never use another brand again, TOP PRODUCT

 

Well, there's always so much back and forth on this topic
and there never seems to be a resolution. I'll tell you one thing I'll be looking for.......when the RX-8 comes out I'll be interested to see if Mazda continues to recommend against the use of synthetic oil. It's use has become widespread now (I use Mobil 1 in my other cars) and if Mazda continues to recommend against it in the Renesis engine, I'm going to assume there's a good reason for it.

 

....however Mazda Competition and Racingbeat advised to use synthetics especially for racing conditions. I've been using MOBIL 1 15W50 for years in all my cars. Including my first, second, and third gen.

 

I think Mazda already use full syn oil in the newer FD in Japan now.

 

I first need to get my car running again.

-Jon

P.S. No more 2 pesos unless you are buying my fugly wing.

 

Here's a question:

When switching from Dino juice to synthetic, is there a "flushing period"? Are they chemically-compatible with each other?

 

No flushing period.
Yes, chemically compatible.

 

I just prefer a low viscosity synthetic more for the turbos than for the motor. They can spin up to 100k rpm so you want a low viscosity oil so they can spin easier and synthetic so the oil is more resistant to thermal breakdown.

 

This was the reasoning my dad used in suggesting that i use mobil1 5w-30 synthetic, but since i've been getting some gasoline in my oil, which has been thinning it out, i think i'm gonna switch to a 20w-50(winer 10w30 summer) regular oil and change it every 1500 miles or so.

 

Why not just change to Mobil1 15w50....I've used it for over a year now in the summers with great success. Keeps my FD running happy at WOT in this texas heat

 

I was just reading about the engine build up in the latest issue of SCC for project RX7.If I remember correctly the were using redline oil from day one, this is a perfect example that even with running exspensive synthetic oil they still lost there to o-ring failer not from wear and tear.

 

I am not a new uneducated RX7 owner and I use Dino juice, because it makes more sense to me to replace the oil more frequently to help remove dirt ,metal shaving, and grit and keep the oil as fresh as possible.I have used Mobil1 on other turbo cars that I have owned its better than dino for sure, but in this particular application its not going to extent the life of youre ? There are many with high milage FD that run synthetic or dino so it dosent matter neither one is better in the long run. O-ring failer is the #1 cause of 13brew death not wear and tear.

 

lol yea do u have to special order it?

 

Can you get Amsoil there? Haven't used it on my car yet (I use Valvoline VR), but did use in on my 2 FC's, one was a TII. One friend had 170k on his car using amsoil. Expensive, but is the first synthetic ever and I believe it is one of, if not the best. Also their filters are great!!!
Downside is, you have to look for an independant deater.

 

OK---Coolant Seal O-Ring failure is due to heat which causes the O ring to warp, thus breaking the seal and letting coolant into the .

Running synthetic oil has been proven without a doubt to lower engine temps, which means less heat which means less chance of the seal warping which means less chance of you needing a rebuild.

Not all O ring failures are due to overheating. Many (my first and my buddy's recent included) happen over time due to elevated engine temps.

It also keeps my stock twins running much cooler. Does any of this make sense, or am I just crazy ?

 

You can lower temps more by adding a second or larger oil cooler, or upgrade the cooling system.This would be more effective in lowering temps than running synthetic oil alone.Project RX7 running redline oil,M2 rad,vented hood,DP,Cat back still lost there from o-ring failer not from normal wear and tear.

 

I agree with you, but--

I have an R1, so already have a 2nd cooler, and I have the rest of the cooling system upgraded. It's all been done. And guess what? When I switched to Mobil1, my motor temps went down a consistent (across the board) 5 degrees C (9 degrees F). That's a quantifiable result. Re: project rx7--the car was stock from the factory, and didn't have all that fancy stuff for thousands of miles. That was the original motor that died.

Regardless, I have the (supposedly indestructible) teflon coated silicone O rings, so I'm not worried about it