My car had done 79,000km when I got it. It's now done 89,000km with me. Compression checks out fine, oil pressure is normal.

I run Penrite HPR 20W-60 MINERAL oil in it, along with an off-the-shelf Ryco oil filter.

Metering pump is still hooked up. But I add some Castrol 2-stroke oil (designed to mix with fuel) to the fuel tank every other time I fill up.

*My personal belief is that mineral oil is better for rotaries, because it will burn more completely when injected.
I think that running/injecting synthetic oil (like Mobil 1, etc) will cause sludge build up in the seals, due to incomplete combustion of the synthetic oil. I may be wrong, and I'm open to all suggestions though

 

Please don't initiate a dino vs syn oil war, there's plenty of threads already if you search.

There are countless guys who been running syn for years. Idemitsu is a full syn formulated specifically for rotary engines.

I been running a full syn for almost 2 years now. I wont go back to dino. Especially now since my other car requires syn. I don't want 2 brands of oils in my stock. I wanna use just one. So I use royal purple in both my car cars.

 

Well one bottle of synthetic (as an example, Castrol) in Australia is $76.99 (Mobil 1 is around $84.00)
A bottle of mineral is around $22-$30.00.

We have a heater in the workshop that runs on used oil. Mineral burns fine. It doesnt love synthetic, and the nozzle always clogs.

I'd love to run the $76 oil, because it would stand the heat in the turbos much better than mineral, but the cost and the sludge worry just doesnt justify it for me.

 

+1 to royal purple and not keeping more oil in stock then necessary

 

Good to know you're up to date with synthetic oils and the feedback on this forum . You're still living in the past where syn wasnt opt for our engines.

You're sadly mistaken man. But i guess do what you will, its your car afterall.

 

I use M1 0W40... In my 2006 Saab 9-3 2.0T. I also only change the oil every 10k miles in that car.

My RX-7 now has over 112k miles on it's original (and still running like a top - knock on wood) engine. I generally use whatever 10W40 is cheapest (I have run 10W30 as well) at Walmart/Autozone/Consumer Auto Parts, and I change at 2k mile intervals. IMHO, due to the short OCI, there's very little benefit to getting synthetic oil.

My Saab goes 5 times the distance on an oil change (and has 93k miles on it and has never had any mechanical issues) and M1 0W40 is both the factory fill as well as the recommended oil. I figure that the Saab/GM engineers did their homework so I'll continue to use M1 or GC (German Castrol Syntec) 0W30 for it's oil changes.

I may simply be lucky with my FD, but I plan to continue to use cheap dino oil. Due to recent oil reformulation, I may start using a ZDDP additive, but there seems to be an ample supply of oil that uses older specs.

 

I run 20/50... but has anyone noticed that they don't sell 20/50 Mobil 1 anymore? I've since switched to Amsoil, which just happens to be sold in the local auto parts chain.

 

Mmmmm, I just bought some a few weeks ago at WALMART....but now that you mention it, I did have to buy it by the quart. I just assumed they were sold out of the gallon jugs though and I talked the clerk into selling me the quarts at the same (sale) gallon price.

 

FYI, it's completely off the shelves at all of the local auto parts stores and even gas stations in this area.

 

Still have it over here but I never ran anything that thick (that's what she said) so I wouldn't mind if they pull it off the shelves for good.

 

I will be using a 15w50 race synthetic from here on out. It will not be mobil1, only amsoil.

 

Joe Gibbs Racing HR2 conventional 10w30 high zinc

 

I'll have to check around. Usually only go to WALMART for oil or to feel thin. But now I'm curious....though it wouldn't surprise me to NOT find M1 15w 50 on the shelf this time of year in fly-over country.

 

Anyone ever use Mobil 1 Synthetic Extended Performance?

 

still happy with Mobil 1 0W-40

 

Per the Mobil guide 0W-40 offers some of best of all worlds. Low cold viscosity that then thickens (an advantage of synthetic). Wear protection of high Phos level of 1000 and Zinc of 1100, very good levels and above typical 800/900 or todays 650/750

Rank of Mobil 1 full synthetic’s by phos-zinc levels and API passenger car classification
1) Mobil 1 Racing: 0W-50, 1750 / 1850 - Racing oil, non-API no detergents to carry dirt .. must change after each use
2) Mobil 1 Racing: 0W-30, 1750 / 1850 - Racing oil, non-API no detergents to carry dirt .. must change after each use

3) Mobil 1 V-Twin: 20w-50, 1600 / 170 - 4-stroke Motorcycle oil, API SJ

4) Mobil 1: 15W-50, 1200 / 1300 API SM, SN – HTemp (HT), HService (HS), Racing
5) Mobil 1 Racing 4T: 10W-40, 1200 / 1300 4-stroke Motorcycle. API SH, SJ, SM

6) Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck: 5W-40, 1100 / 1200, API SL, SM
7) Mobil 1 :5W-50, 1000 / 1100, API SM, SN, - HT/HS, Porsche approved
8) Mobil 1 :0W-40, 1000 / 1100, API SJ, SL, SM, SN, - HT/Turbo Service (TS), Porsche, BMW, GT-R approved
9) Mobil 1 High Mileage: 10W-40, 1000 / 1100, API SJ, SL, SM, SN
10) Mobil 1 High Mileage: 10W-30, 1000 / 1100, API SJ, SL
11) Mobil 1 High Mileage: 5W-30, 1000 / 1100, API SJ, SL


12) Mobil 1 ESP Formula M: 5W-40, 800 / 900, Diesel MB approved
13) Mobil 1 ESP Formula: 5W-30, 800 / 900, Diesel MB, BMW, VW approved
14) Mobil 1 Extended Performance: 10W-30, 800 / 900 API SN
15) Mobil 1 Extended Performance: 5W-30, 800 / 900 API SN
16) Mobil 1 Extended Performance: 5W-20, 800 / 900 API SN

 

FWIW I've been using Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5w-40 and I have been very happy with it. As a bonus, WalMart sells it in gallon jugs for around $25. Easy to pick one up and be good to go.