Medusa Head
#1
PV = nRT
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: New Zealand (was California)
Posts: 2,250
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Medusa Head
Yes you will turn to stone.
Come on Mazda - next time: ball bearing single turbo w/ trick exhaust side trim or a TRUE sequential setup with one small / one large and some form of parallel spooling of the second turbo not dependent on the first (which would increase spool-up time for the 1st, but possibly have less complexity overall).
NEWS: This just in! Rotary engine found under vaccuum hose nightmare!
Come on Mazda - next time: ball bearing single turbo w/ trick exhaust side trim or a TRUE sequential setup with one small / one large and some form of parallel spooling of the second turbo not dependent on the first (which would increase spool-up time for the 1st, but possibly have less complexity overall).
NEWS: This just in! Rotary engine found under vaccuum hose nightmare!
#4
Full Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 146
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Its not that bad...I did it several times for friends, piece of cake. It is only difficult the first time, after that its like tossing a salad I think its pretty nice looking actually, although I would have prefered black silicone
Nice job.
cheers
W
Nice job.
cheers
W
#6
1JZ powered
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Where there's only two seasons, hot and wet! I love Okinawa
Posts: 4,423
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Wow...no wonder I went non-sequential/single turbo so fast...Guess I never had the "pleasure" of working with all those retarded vacuum hoses.
Trending Topics
#9
Still on 1st engine
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,176
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Good job Clayne! I almost turned to stone!
I though of going with black hoses myself (when the day arises), but I suppose the differing colors make it easier to keep track of your progress.
I though of going with black hoses myself (when the day arises), but I suppose the differing colors make it easier to keep track of your progress.
#10
PV = nRT
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: New Zealand (was California)
Posts: 2,250
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Also, you can see the water-pump is sooo sad I tore his friend's guts out.
I'm also going to be rewrapping those harnesses because they SUCK. You cannot move them without the wrapping cracking everywhere.
#13
PV = nRT
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: New Zealand (was California)
Posts: 2,250
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm about to pull this coolant line completely and wanted to get a quick sanity check before doing it. It's the original line that is routed to the throttle body for TB heating when cold. It then exits the top of the TB and passes behind it and back down into the rear housing.
I've done the TB coolant bypass/FIC adjustment a while ago and have no issues with that - I just wanted to check with other knowledgable folks as to if removing that coolant path would be an issue. My thinking is that it will not be an issue as it appears to be for TB pre-heating only and does not represent the core of coolant flow within the engine based on the hose-sizing and exit/re-entry points. If you look at the flow-path it should be exiting the cooling system mid coolant-flow and then re-entering near the t-stat exit where heated coolant exits anyways.
I've done the TB coolant bypass/FIC adjustment a while ago and have no issues with that - I just wanted to check with other knowledgable folks as to if removing that coolant path would be an issue. My thinking is that it will not be an issue as it appears to be for TB pre-heating only and does not represent the core of coolant flow within the engine based on the hose-sizing and exit/re-entry points. If you look at the flow-path it should be exiting the cooling system mid coolant-flow and then re-entering near the t-stat exit where heated coolant exits anyways.
#14
Too Many Projects
iTrader: (10)
Originally posted by clayne
I'm goign to try and figure out how to get the plugs off the wiring - if not, I may end up just cutting them.
I'm goign to try and figure out how to get the plugs off the wiring - if not, I may end up just cutting them.
#15
PV = nRT
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: New Zealand (was California)
Posts: 2,250
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If it weren't for that silly day job I would have had this crap done by now... So that TB-specific line has been removed from the block altogether and capped:
Now to just strip off the old harness wrapping, cut and/or move the old connections out of the way, and re-wrap any cracked wrapping. Also drill and mount an aluminum plate for the leading and trailing coils.
Now to just strip off the old harness wrapping, cut and/or move the old connections out of the way, and re-wrap any cracked wrapping. Also drill and mount an aluminum plate for the leading and trailing coils.
Last edited by clayne; 01-06-04 at 11:07 PM.
#17
My engine builder told me not to cap the used-to-be TB coolant path, just short it with a hose, has something to with where that coolant goes in the block. I figured if that rear nipple is the only escape for coolant in the upper rear right side, capping it may create a zone where coolant just sits, heating to boiling temps and causing trouble, so I followed his advice. (even though I'm not even sure about the direction of flow in that path)
#18
DRIVE THE ROTARY SPORTS
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: CA (Bay Area)
Posts: 4,150
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by Rhode_Dog
i think that picture is the sole reason the mazda mechanics at the dealer where i work are terrified of this car.
i think that picture is the sole reason the mazda mechanics at the dealer where i work are terrified of this car.
the 7 remindes me of the old MGB's ..... you better be able to work on them youself, or have a specialty mechanic near by!
PS i did mine a few months ago in black.... i like the black but its much harder to work with cause they dont stand out... its easier to make mistakes w/ the black tubing IMHO so be a little EXTRA carefull. i did mine 1 by 1, and put a label on each one, and also took pics as i went along. this came in helpfull for me a few times during the process.
Last edited by RotorMotor; 01-08-04 at 05:29 AM.
#19
~17 MPG
iTrader: (2)
Originally posted by mks
My engine builder told me not to cap the used-to-be TB coolant path, just short it with a hose, has something to with where that coolant goes in the block. I figured if that rear nipple is the only escape for coolant in the upper rear right side, capping it may create a zone where coolant just sits, heating to boiling temps and causing trouble, so I followed his advice. (even though I'm not even sure about the direction of flow in that path)
My engine builder told me not to cap the used-to-be TB coolant path, just short it with a hose, has something to with where that coolant goes in the block. I figured if that rear nipple is the only escape for coolant in the upper rear right side, capping it may create a zone where coolant just sits, heating to boiling temps and causing trouble, so I followed his advice. (even though I'm not even sure about the direction of flow in that path)
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Tokyo/Texas
Posts: 685
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by mks
My engine builder told me not to cap the used-to-be TB coolant path, just short it with a hose, has something to with where that coolant goes in the block. I figured if that rear nipple is the only escape for coolant in the upper rear right side, capping it may create a zone where coolant just sits, heating to boiling temps and causing trouble, so I followed his advice. (even though I'm not even sure about the direction of flow in that path)
My engine builder told me not to cap the used-to-be TB coolant path, just short it with a hose, has something to with where that coolant goes in the block. I figured if that rear nipple is the only escape for coolant in the upper rear right side, capping it may create a zone where coolant just sits, heating to boiling temps and causing trouble, so I followed his advice. (even though I'm not even sure about the direction of flow in that path)
#22
PV = nRT
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: New Zealand (was California)
Posts: 2,250
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm 99% sure the FIC (fast-idle) valve does not close after coldstart. More accurately the wax rod moves the cam and stays that way for as long as coolant temperature is hot enough.
Some other people's comments on my pipe removal:
http://www.nopistons.com/forums/inde...howtopic=33386
Some other people's comments on my pipe removal:
http://www.nopistons.com/forums/inde...howtopic=33386
#24
PV = nRT
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: New Zealand (was California)
Posts: 2,250
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Check the NP link. It's okay.
But I'm also making a custom bracket for my coils as removing that pipe removes the front mounts for the coil pack bracket.
But I'm also making a custom bracket for my coils as removing that pipe removes the front mounts for the coil pack bracket.