Yes you will turn to stone.

Come on Mazda - next time: ball bearing single turbo w/ trick exhaust side trim or a TRUE sequential setup with one small / one large and some form of parallel spooling of the second turbo not dependent on the first (which would increase spool-up time for the 1st, but possibly have less complexity overall).

NEWS: This just in! Rotary engine found under vaccuum hose nightmare!

 

Nice job. Looks like your being careful.

Good luck.

 

Careful? I'm pre-mixing the chainsaw right now.

 

Its not that bad...I did it several times for friends, piece of cake. It is only difficult the first time, after that its like tossing a salad I think its pretty nice looking actually, although I would have prefered black silicone

Nice job.

cheers

W

 

i broke 2 soleniods when i did it. It made it lot harder when i couldnt take out my soleniod rack...

 

Wow...no wonder I went non-sequential/single turbo so fast...Guess I never had the "pleasure" of working with all those retarded vacuum hoses.

 

i think that picture is the sole reason the mazda mechanics at the dealer where i work are terrified of this car.

 

Oh that stuff isn't staying in, not at all. I'll be cutting out the blockoff plates tomorrow to slap on it too.

 

Good job Clayne! I almost turned to stone!

I though of going with black hoses myself (when the day arises), but I suppose the differing colors make it easier to keep track of your progress.

 

Also, you can see the water-pump is sooo sad I tore his friend's guts out.

I'm also going to be rewrapping those harnesses because they SUCK. You cannot move them without the wrapping cracking everywhere.

 

I need to rip all these bad boys out and install all my fuel components and then I should be all set.

 

I'm goign to try and figure out how to get the plugs off the wiring - if not, I may end up just cutting them.

 

I'm about to pull this coolant line completely and wanted to get a quick sanity check before doing it. It's the original line that is routed to the throttle body for TB heating when cold. It then exits the top of the TB and passes behind it and back down into the rear housing.

I've done the TB coolant bypass/FIC adjustment a while ago and have no issues with that - I just wanted to check with other knowledgable folks as to if removing that coolant path would be an issue. My thinking is that it will not be an issue as it appears to be for TB pre-heating only and does not represent the core of coolant flow within the engine based on the hose-sizing and exit/re-entry points. If you look at the flow-path it should be exiting the cooling system mid coolant-flow and then re-entering near the t-stat exit where heated coolant exits anyways.

 

Yea I was looking for the same thing and ended up cutting them off and then just using alot of electrical tape to tape up the thing.

 

If it weren't for that silly day job I would have had this crap done by now... So that TB-specific line has been removed from the block altogether and capped:










Now to just strip off the old harness wrapping, cut and/or move the old connections out of the way, and re-wrap any cracked wrapping. Also drill and mount an aluminum plate for the leading and trailing coils.

 

WOW!!! Great write up Im going through the exact same thing. Keep it up!

 

My engine builder told me not to cap the used-to-be TB coolant path, just short it with a hose, has something to with where that coolant goes in the block. I figured if that rear nipple is the only escape for coolant in the upper rear right side, capping it may create a zone where coolant just sits, heating to boiling temps and causing trouble, so I followed his advice. (even though I'm not even sure about the direction of flow in that path)

 

hehehehehe, so am i . They have good reason to be afraid... the only people in the mazda dealarship that are qualified to lay a hand on our 7's are the lube techs for oil changes everyone else stay away!

the 7 remindes me of the old MGB's ..... you better be able to work on them youself, or have a specialty mechanic near by!

PS i did mine a few months ago in black.... i like the black but its much harder to work with cause they dont stand out... its easier to make mistakes w/ the black tubing IMHO so be a little EXTRA carefull. i did mine 1 by 1, and put a label on each one, and also took pics as i went along. this came in helpfull for me a few times during the process.

 

Can anyone back this up?? Just wondering?

 

Great pics!

 

Yea, I don't know why he said this, but he could be right, I'd just like an explanation. I just don't see why he would say that the coolant would sit there and boil. Since during cold start, there is a constant flow of coolant through there, it must recirculating back into the system on the rear housing, so I don't see how it could sit stagnant. Also, after coldstart, the valve closes in the throttle body breaking this flow of coolant anyways, which isn't much different from just capping both ends off. But who knows, probably something in there I don't know about.

 

I'm 99% sure the FIC (fast-idle) valve does not close after coldstart. More accurately the wax rod moves the cam and stays that way for as long as coolant temperature is hot enough.

Some other people's comments on my pipe removal:

http://www.nopistons.com/forums/inde...howtopic=33386

 

So anyone because Im doing the exact same thing and I already removed the hose, and its about time to put stuff back together.

 

Check the NP link. It's okay.

But I'm also making a custom bracket for my coils as removing that pipe removes the front mounts for the coil pack bracket.

 

My imitation of the "Clash of the Titans" Gorgon scene...



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