mazda motorsports break in question.
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From: Charlotte, NC
mazda motorsports break in question.
was wondering if this was a correct way to break to break a rebuild motor in with new bearings and rotors and housings, large street port and single?
-Using a dynamometer for engine break-in is preferred. If you do not have access to a "Dyno," use the mileage break-in figures on the following table. The engine should first be run at idle for 30-45 minutes. During this time, be sure to check for leaks and keep an eye on the gauges. Ideally, for the first 100 miles (depending on use of new or used bearings), avoid operating the engine above 5000 rpm or under heavy load.
From 100-200 miles, gradually increase rpm, but never allow the engine to approach red line. Beyond 200 miles we recommend only short bursts of power approaching red line for 100 miles. At this point, change the break-in engine oil. The engine break-in period is now complete.
-Using a dynamometer for engine break-in is preferred. If you do not have access to a "Dyno," use the mileage break-in figures on the following table. The engine should first be run at idle for 30-45 minutes. During this time, be sure to check for leaks and keep an eye on the gauges. Ideally, for the first 100 miles (depending on use of new or used bearings), avoid operating the engine above 5000 rpm or under heavy load.
From 100-200 miles, gradually increase rpm, but never allow the engine to approach red line. Beyond 200 miles we recommend only short bursts of power approaching red line for 100 miles. At this point, change the break-in engine oil. The engine break-in period is now complete.
My rebuild included all new bearings, housings, hard and soft seals and this is what I did. https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...light=no+boost
I'm not certain, but that may have been meant more for race engines with looser tolerances.
I'm not certain, but that may have been meant more for race engines with looser tolerances.
Last edited by Sgtblue; Nov 11, 2008 at 08:28 AM.
There's a million different ways to go about it. I would do at least a 20 minute warm up to check for leaks and make sure that the coolant system is burped completely. From there "I would" go 100 miles under 3000 rpm's. From there change the oil and top off the coolant again. After that, go to 500 miles under 4000 rpm's. Lastly, go to 1000 miles to 5000 rpm's and change the oil. All of this should be CITY driving. Highway driving isn't preferred as it wont allow engine speed variance and obviously not allow of heat cycling of the stationary gears. I also would not boost it until you have a tuner make a map for the car. I change my oil every 1000 miles...
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