Can someone provide some insight on how to remove the map pocket from my driver's side door? Looks like I need to maybe remove the trim around the door handle to get to what I believe are two screws?

Searched but haven't been able to find any clear instruction.

Cheers

 

First off, what are you trying to do?

If you have something like the Bubbletech lid, it just goes on without removing the whole assembly from the door.

If you are trying to remove the assembly you need to remove the whole door panel. BE CAREFUL as the plastic trim on the door is BRITTLE. If it's cold where you are (I'm guessing Mass. is cold right now) I would do this somewhere warm with the plastic warmed up. When cold the interior plastics are even more brittle than normal.

You have to remove the front part of the door trim after the door panel is off - the part with the window switch, power mirror switch, and AC vent. Then the map pocket can come out. All the screws that hold that stuff in is on the back side.

TAKE YOUR TIME and BE CAREFUL. Interior plastics are BRITTLE and if you rush or force things you'll be looking for new parts that don't exist any more.

Dale

 

@DaleClark thanks for the info as always. I'm replacing the lid, but wanted to clean it up and line it with felt. Thought it would be easier to do so out of the car.

I wasn't able to get Bubbletech but there's a guy somewhat local to me (Drake's in ME) who also produces replicas, they appear to be similar quality. Got mine today and it looks very sturdy.

Not sure if I want to go through removing the door panel, though if I do so it would be in my heated garage

 

Find a friend who has a panel off. Study the backside before you attempt removal of your own.

Plan to lube the window mechanism while the card is off.

There are thin strips of fabric that will be dangling down. You will want to replace all that or you be squeaking.

Also replace the foam (if it is still there) around the metal hangers at the top of the card. Those hangers can be a major source of rattles.

The foam bridges between the plastic trims are likely already broken. Plan to reinforce these with JB Weld (or similar).The metal supports for those bridges are often lost. They will be very rusty. Plan to clean.

All the screw posts for the plastic trim are likely to be cracked and will fall apart. Perhaps use JB welds to reinforce them before you try to unscrew.

All the trim must be undone from the inside.

When removing the card. First make sure to undo the three perimeter screws and the screw(s) in the handle cup.

Next you grab the bottom of the card and pull toward you, Only about half an inch. This pulls the lower push pins out of their mourings.

Slide you finger along in each direction to make sure you have each push pin disengaged,

Once the door card is loose at the bottom, you will want to lift it straight up to disengage the three hanger clips at the top of the card. Those clips also have plastic pins that need to be disengaged (good luck with those).

Like Dale says, if you feel you have to force anything, then likely something has not been disengaged, and something will crack.

The Passenger door has a bolt hidden behind the window switch and on the lower part of the panel, underneath the arm rest. Make sure those are removed.

Also there is a screw in the handle cup.

Failure to remove those could cost you $500 in damage to the door handle and card.

As I indicate above, once you have the door cards off, take care to refurbish all (ALL) the sound deadening materials. It is really beneficial to the inside feel of the cabin to eliminate squeaks and rattles.

 

Hey Dave! This is something I need to do for both cars. What replacement fabric have you tried fir the squeaks ? I read a thread in recent years about it but I can’t seem to find it.

 

I used black pinstriping (wide) tape. But I suspect body shops actually have a source for that kind of material. Another alternative might be ribbon from a fabric store.

Local car part shop might surprise you if you ask.

Have not tried google.

Let us know what you find!

Another consideration is what to do with the moisture barrier plastic. I have been lucky that I could just press it back in place.

But on older doors that plastic disintegrates.

I buy rolls of plastic from a plastic supply specialty stop. But I have not had to apply. Nor have I had to replace the "sticky stuff".

 

For replace 1/8 inch think foam, I have found a black "sticky on one side" pipe insulation tape that works well.

Also the soft side of the velco combination. One inch wide rolls can be found with a sticky backing.