Still trying to figure out my passenger window. The previous owner said that he had unhooked a black wire to keep from having the window go down and get stuck in the down position. I've looked for an unhooked wire but can't find one.

With the motor still attached, can I move the window down and up "manually"?

If I do take the motor off, can the window stay in place and stay up?

Also, several posts suggest that the accordion cover in the door jamb contains an often messed up connector. Do you have to pull the pin in the door hinge to allow the door to swing wide to get at this connector? Hate to cut up the accordion.

Thanks for any help,

 

Somebody must have dealt with the passenger window problems. . . .

 

I doubt the previous owner would have fooled with the accordion connector there - more likely it's something with the window switch itself or the wiring to it.

If you just need to get the passenger window rolled up, pull off the passenger door panel and use 2 jumper wires to get 12v and ground to the motor.

Dale

 

Would I jump it at the passenger door window switch?

I read a post that said to use a paperclip between the red and blue/white wires to jump it. I tried this at the window switch, no reaction?

Is there a simple way/place to test whether or not power is even going to the switch or motor?

The previous owner did say that if you put 12v to the motor, it would go up. I'm guessing that that means the motor works IF you can get power to it, or does the switch not deliver that much voltage to the motor?

 

This is where things start going wrong during a repair. You "think", "guessing", "maybe", "I heard", etc, etc. of a way to perform a repair. The proper course of action is to refer to the 1993 Shop manual, Section K1 - Power Window system, for the correct steps to remedy your specific problem. Otherwise you could be heading down a path that will compound your current problem. Obviousily this is what was handed off to you, comebody claims to have cut a black wire....somewhere. Good luck

later

 

I must not have the same service manual as you referenced. Section K in both of mine is transmission. I searched the 93 service highlights, it did have better electrical flow diagrams. I'd like to go through the step by step that you recommended. do you have a link to that particular manual? I've checked the Tech Manual sticky, don't think they are the one you referenced.

Thanks

 

The electrical manual is available for download in the stickies.

Get a voltmeter and start trouble shooting. Check if you're getting power to the switch first. If you are, then the switch is probably bad. If not, start tracing back until you find the bad connection.

 

Thanks

 

Actually, I meant get a multimeter, so you can also check the wires for discontinuity.

 

I highly doubt it has anything to do with that acordian. I had a window issue with one of my 7's back in the day. The rails that the windows slide on was loose (and lacked grease) and was causing it to come up diagonally. I did not have an electrical issue however, when I was working on the window mechanism I did see connectors that could be disconnected.

If you want to take a look, (I am going off memory from two years ago) you will want to use a phillips screw driver and first, unscrew the screw that is in the hand hold of the door. It is generally covered by a little plastic cap that can be popped off with a flat head. Once you have un-done that screw, make sure to do all the other screws that have the door panel attached, (there should be 3 or 4).

Once you have all the screws out you want to undo the plastic clips holding the door panel to the door (these usually break because of their age). Once the door feels like it is popped off, you want to push from the bottum upwards (there are 2 clips on the inside of the door panel that hold it to the door) dont pry the panel off but push up and then you have to get the interior handle through the hole of the panel.


I know this sounds confusing but it is really simple.. once you have the panel off you will be able to see connectors, you will need to disconnect afew wires from the panel to get it compleatley free. There will be a piece of plastic glued on to the actual door, behind it there are some connectors you can look at as well....

hope this helps, sorry for the terrible directions

 

Sounds like the previous owner was an idiot who didn't take the time to fix the problem correctly. I have applied power to the window motor connector before but I don't recall which 2 wires it was. Sounds like you have a bad regulator or something wrong with the guide rails. Could be the switch as well.

 

If the motor were to run with power applied to it (only 2 wires run to it), then would that suggest the switch as the culprit?

I just checked the window switch with my meter and don't see any voltage there. I'll try backtracking from there. Any risk with trying the 12v to the motor? I have a 12v line that was for an old cell phone and it is reading 12v.

Thanks, an electrician I am not!

 

Applying 12v directly to the motor is perfectly safe, but unplug the connectors and wires to the motor first so you aren't powering the rest of the circuit. Reversing the polarity will make the motor change direction.

 

There are only two wires you need to worry about. There is a plug with two pins that is wired directly to the motor inside the door. If you apply +12V to one pin and ground to the other, the motor will go one way. If you reverse the polarity the motor will go the other way.

Now don't quote me on this but I believe you will want to remove the window glass before trying to take the motor itself out. This is accomplished by moving the window halfway (or so) up it's travel and reaching in to remove the fasteners that pass through it and hold it in place. You will need to remove the weather stripping in order to get the window out of it's tracks and BE CAREFUL not to scratch your glass in the process. I could be all wrong about removing the glass first but that's how I did it.

If you need replacement parts, I have a working passenger side motor and window rails. PM me if you're interested.

 

Yes the glass needs to be removed to take the regulator out. It is held to the regulator with 2 10mm head bolts. I like to use a gear wrench to get at them.

 

Thanks1

 

I referred you to Section K1 - power window system....not K - transmission.

Later