I have a new in the box never used dual stage coolingmist setup I'll let go for 200 shipped

I also have a used aquamist pump and misc pieces I'll sell for 67 shipped

Thanks,
Fritz

I have a general question about some of the "intelligent" systems. They can take 0-5v input (and presumably factor the delivery accordingly). If this unit is in the back of the car and my dataloggit is in the passenger footwell how do I datalog and give the water/alky controller accurate data?

Any reason to fear parts of the injector falling into the engine? Happened to a local car . . .

Can we do this? OK I'm game!
I have a NIB Coolingmist 150psi pump $65 shipped
Also New Coolingmist 4-120psi Varicool Progressive Controller $200 shipped

Fritz, do you have a link to this or a complete description so we can know exactly what you have?

Has anyone asked this question: "If the AI lowers the CCP temps, does that affect the water temperature gauge?" (As in lower water temperature due to lower CCP temperatures.) Therefore the fans on the radiator would not click on as often as before AI.

This makes me think about the FMIC vs SMIC. That "an FMIC should not be used on an everyday/non-racing FD because it causes loss of air flow to the radiator subsequently causing higher engine temps." If the AI were incorporated into the mix, would that eliminate the negative aspect for running an FMIC on an everyday FD?

This thread has been addicting. Lots of new concepts and educational insight that I did not really think of until now. I will most certainly be purchasing an AI for water injection mainly for the reliability factors.

There are some VERY smart and experienced people on this forum!!!

"If the AI lowers the CCP temps, does that affect the water temperature gauge?"

not appreciably as AI only works in boost. the primary benefit is in the combustion chamber.

"dual stage coolingmist setup"
well, here's a new term for the thread....dual stage.

as we attempt to work w the basic/inexpensive system and rightly conclude that the flow rate doesn't vary alot because it increases ONLY w the square root of the change in pressure we find we can increase flow better by adding another nozzle/stage.

here is a TREMENDOUS write up on system architecture by Richard Lamb/Aquamist... in our Auxiliary Injection Section.

https://www.rx7club.com/auxiliary-injection-173/indepth-study-wai-injection-systems-820079/

hc

Great thread so far. I hope every single rotary-owning enthusiast on this forum reads this.

B

Great Thread, almost read all the pages, but already bought 3 AEM AI kits for my 20B FC, FD single, GSL SE T2 motor, my builder installed a AEM AI on my buddys 20B FD and dynoed with an extra 20HP

not bad! what mixture did he use? egt's? air temps?

for those interested in the FJO system... there are 19 kits available now. since i am not in any way connected w the sale of these items commercially and am not a vendor on this forum those interested will just have to find them if interested. the kit will work w water or water and meth at 50/50. additional engineering needed for straight meth.

just an FYI.

howard

Could I get an answer on this?

Did they say the price for it? Nevermind, I see the price. $700 I was just wondering if it was going to stay in that range or if it was going to increase...good stuff

^Notice that's without the tank though, and I think they were saying that was going to be included. Doesn't bother me any, I think I'm gonna use my windshield wiper reservior, but I wanted to point that out.

Don't use a washer reservoir. Build it the right way and use atleast a 1gal sized fuel cell with the proper plumbing. This AI stuff can't be skimped out on if it's any departure away from the simple, low-cost, low output volume water injection.

B

Well I was planning on just using washer fluid anyway (whatever kind has the right mix anyway) since it's already premixed and it shouldn't freeze in the winter like water would, and I would think it won't break down like I had read about methanol, having to drain it from the tank. And instead of running it all the way from the rear of the car, just use the reservoir right there. Although I wasn't really keen on having to drill a port in it for the low fluid level sensor and stuff like that.

Just be careful using windshield washer fluid. The brand you use might stop going into production or the supplier may change the formula which may affect your AFR's.

thewird

What is the problem with using the washer reservoir?

It's silly. That's what. :)

There is really nothing wrong with using the washer provided its in good shape and isn't going to leak all your fluid out. Keeping it nice and clean is smart too, and some sort of filter to keep trash from clogging your nozzle. Otherwise its just a container. :Shrug:

Yeah that's true. Maybe I'll use boost juice from Snow Performance or something. I was originally going to just use water because it's free and readily available, but I don't want it to freeze in the lines during the winter. That along with other pros like cooler intake charge.

Sound reasoning, HAHAHA. I'm not shrugging off your advice, I know you're very knowledgeable about this stuff, I'm just trying to state the pros as I see them, and consider all the cons as well. I've put considerable thought into this too.

Yeah one problem would be keeping it clean, since the only opening is pretty small. And trying to modify it like I mentioned earlier, that's no good either. I guess I'm still on the fence on this issue.

Yeah, I know it's not good "sound reasoning". :) Just something about it seems silly and Home Depot-ish. Then again, I can't make too much fun of Home Depot. :p

My honest advice to you would be to use the hardware and system(s) that are not theoretical but the ones that have actually worked and produced real results. That's what matters IMO and that's where the rubber meets the road. So, what's some of the hardware and systems that've actually worked and given provable success?

Another thing I just thought of that I think is a legitimate reason not to use the window warrrsher reservoir: Consumption rate of your AI medium. If it's just to spray some dinky nozzle on a single-stage setup with water, then it'll probably work just fine. But, if you're attacking the AI question in the same fashion that Howard and I have, where there's a many-times-over higher consumption rate than your generic AI system, then consider over-building it and go for atleast a 1gal sized fuel cell.

B

Excellent thread. Some of the best reading I've had the pleasure of coming across in here in some time.

Also, make sure you use distilled watter, not tap water. readily available, but not totally free...

A big Thankyou to Howard and the other contributors, this thread has been very illuminating to say the least, and has really given me some confidence in the potential of our rotary engines. I have spent a lot of time in and out of the garage due to different issues, and really want to do everything I can to make my engine as bulletproof as possible. Being able to enjoy the car and not worry about breaking it constantly has been a foreign concept for me. Sent a PM to Richard to explore my options and get a system before my car hits the pave this season. Thank you!!