mdpalmer

iTrader: (24)

I got around to installing an airpump and alternator last night. I had to swap out my old (aftermarket) water pump pulley for the OE one and I used an FD alt with the stock size pulley (my car had the airpump deleted previously). Used a new belt that fits the OE pulley system.

Car fires up OK, idles at about 1000-1100 RPM @ 14-16 inHg when cold. Crappy thing is, when the car warms up (according to OE temp gauge), idle falls to ~500 RPM and vaccuum reads about 10 inHg. Man, it looks like the motor is dancing on its engine mounts!! Prior to my install, the engine would idle relatively well after warm-up.

I checked the FSM for troubleshooting advice, but thought that someone else may have had the same problem here (hence my post).
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Sidenote: I installed two airpumps. One that I bought from a forum member and another one that came with the car. I was leary about using the one that came with the car since it looked "abused". so I used the one I bought off a forum member. When I fired the car up and let her idle up for a bit, I smelled something burning and then noticed some smoke--from the damn air pump! F*ck! At least it was working (sucking air in and pumping it back out). I removed that pump and put the other one on. It doesn't smoke, but it also doesn't work
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
When I installed the other air pump, I noticed a broken wire (it leads to the coolant level sensor). I also noticed that the green water thermoswitch connecter was very loose (it seemed like it was kinda hanging there, not in contact with the sensor).

What do you guys think? Please advise.

~Mike
1993 touring
full non sequential
street port, bad compression on front rotor, OK compression on rear
stock ECU
intake, hi-flow cat, 3" exhaust

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Have you checked for engine codes? The water themosensor is a key ECU input. Fix the problems that you know exist before moving on.

Also, you say in your sig that you have bad compression on the front rotor. It's hard to get a solid idle and vacuum out of a blown motor .

Dale

mdpalmer

iTrader: (24)

Yah, no codes (forgot to mention). And, double yah, it's hard to get a good idle out of this engine Seriously though, it's been behaving pretty well when idling lately.... I'll update when I fix that wire and fire the car back up again.

Thanks Dale.

EDIT: I used the wrong term to describe the sensor to which the green connector hooks up with. As Dale said, it's a thermoSENSOR, not thermoSWITCH.

mdpalmer

iTrader: (24)

update: I re-wired the water level sensor and re-connected the water thermosensor. Got pretty much the same symptoms after th e car warmed up. Said, "f*ck it" and adjusted the idle a bit higher. Voila!!! No more crappy vaccuum (@ 1200 RPM or so). Car behaves with 14-16 inHg @ 1200 RPM. Sorry for the crappy initial post

ProjectD

iTrader: (15)

Now would be a good time for a rebuild. the longer you run it like this the more chance you have of screwing something up.