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loop steering rack?

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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 12:47 PM
  #1  
rajahFD's Avatar
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loop steering rack?

I have recently removed the Power Steering on my FD, but I am not sure how to delete the power steering on my Steering Rack.

I know Gotham Racing has a kit for it: here

I kind of need it this weekend though, so there is really no time for shipping and I am aware that you can also just rig it up yourself as a DIY Project..

I was wondering if anyone had any pictures or a detailed discription on HOW to do it.

Thanks.
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 12:59 PM
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I sent my PS rack to Maval manufacturing [http://www.mavalgear.com/], and had them convert the rack to a manual. They have a guy there that does nothing but ps systems for hot rods. He gut the hydraulic lines, punched out the piston inside, added new tie rod ends, there's a part to weld that eliminates the roughly 5 degrees of play in the rack, and painted it. I don't have my receipt, but I paid somewhere around $140, lifetime warranty. It feels great and is MUCH easier to than those I've driven using a loop.
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 01:06 PM
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Thanks, I'll do that a bit further into the future though!
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 01:20 PM
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even pictures would do.. anyone?
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 02:45 PM
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I don't have any pics, but I'll describe my changes.

The 4 connections (pressure hose from pump, 2 hard lines to center of rack, return hose to cooling loop) where the column meets the rack were removed. I then plugged the holes with $.50 pieces from the hardware store. They were for 3/8" or 7/16" holes, IIRC.

This is a good time to crank the steering all the way over several times to drain fluid through the open hard lines.

Because the piston remains inside the housing, we need to connect the two hydraulic fittings on the rack. This will allow fluid to move from one side of the piston to the other as the steering is turned. I removed both hard lines from the rack and cut a section from the middle of the longer line. The first end was reattached in its original location on the passenger side, while the other end went into the other fitting in the center of the housing. Finally, I bent this line to point at the first fitting and connected the tubes with a small piece of hose and a couple of clamps.
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 06:21 PM
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sweet! now i have an idea.

Did you cover the holes with just regular bolts?

anyone else???
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by rastarajah
Did you cover the holes with just regular bolts?
No, I found some plastic hole plugs.
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Old Dec 9, 2006 | 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by rotorex
I sent my PS rack to Maval manufacturing [http://www.mavalgear.com/], and had them convert the rack to a manual. They have a guy there that does nothing but ps systems for hot rods. He gut the hydraulic lines, punched out the piston inside, added new tie rod ends, there's a part to weld that eliminates the roughly 5 degrees of play in the rack, and painted it. I don't have my receipt, but I paid somewhere around $140, lifetime warranty. It feels great and is MUCH easier to than those I've driven using a loop.
I did the same thing
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Old Dec 9, 2006 | 10:00 AM
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$140? I paid $275 to have my rack done by them. Either way it was $$ well spent, my steering felt a little squirrely at higher speeds on the track with the loop.
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Old Dec 9, 2006 | 11:57 AM
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The right way really is to completely remove the rack and convert to a manual rack. You can do it yourself or send it off to Maval Gear. Looping should only be used as a temporary solution.
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Old Dec 9, 2006 | 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by turbogarrett
$140? I paid $275 to have my rack done by them. Either way it was $$ well spent, my steering felt a little squirrely at higher speeds on the track with the loop.
I think I paid $290 but I am not 100% sure because I wanted them to use my low mileage rack.
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