wonder1and

Yes yes I know we have been whoring about this for the last week but I want to make sure all bases are covered and I know not only the tricks but what to look for...


Things I am doing...

1. Hose job w/ hosetechniqes silicone hoses. O and zip ties

2. Replacing Fuel pulsation dampener.

3. Polishing UIM and TB using the how to websites.

4. Replacing intake temp sensor.

5. Re-wraping engine wiring harness.

6. Clear coating Polished parts for added protection.

7. Replacing existing Jacobs wires for MSD ones... I heard things leading me to do this...

This should be it for now...

I am looking for helpful hits for getting into the heart of the beast.
I.E. putting plenty of pressure on the screws that hold down the rats nest.

Q's:
1. Shoud I disconnect the hoses from where they lead to then replace them on a bench because of easier access or should I do it the hard way because it will be easier to determine where the hell the little suckers go?

2. Should I use this hose on ANYTHING having to do with oil... i.e. pcv return hose (the one leading to near top of oil filler neck)?

3. When working on replacing the hoses... when I go to remove them... I know to shave them but I have also been told by Goodfella to heat them up untill showing signs of blistering... using mini hand torch. *edit* referring to hoses on selinoids that are hard as a rock.*

4. When I am taking off the UIM (I have not done this before) what should I worry about f-ing up? I have the manual and will be following it VERY closely. Should I remove the nuts from the bracket that holds the throttle cable positioner to remove it or should I just loosen the nuts and say the hell w/ it then take it off.

5. Are there hoses preticularly hard to remove or get to that I should know about before getting to it... I know there is a couple that make a VERY interesting bend.

6. Is there any other tricks I should know before digging in???

7. Anything else that comes to mind?

Thanks for the bandwidth and patience!!!
-Ryker

hapa

This response will take me a while to type.

First on your choice of materials, I would go with the Baker Precision hose over the Hose Techniques. I actually got a sample of each and chose the Baker my self when seeing both in person.
Second, make sure you have all the tools to do the job. Especially sockets and I would buy a set of Craftsman Handicut cutters to cut the Vacuum hose.
Third, I would also have your injectors balanced and cleaned by a reputable shop ( I used R.C. engineering in Torrance, CA), and change the Injector O-rings, and the rubber insulators that they sit in. Mine were going bad and needed changing, and since you have it all apart, might as well. Most fuel leaks come from the Fuel pulsation dampner and primary injectors.
Fourth: I would also plan on changing all the coolant/fuel hoses that are on top of the motor. They are old, and since your in there do the job right. This can only save you time in the long run.

1) Now onto the job itself. I wouldn't worry about taking the mainfold off, it's actually quite simple. Just be prepared to get some coolant on you from the throttle-body. Now your looking at all the hoses. Next remove your coils, you were going to change the plug wires anyways.

2) After you remove the coils and the heat shield, there are 3-4 bolts underneath. These bolts hold the metal fuel/coolant lines onto the top of the motor. Once these are removed you can pull the pipes upwards. By doing this you gain enough access to the solenoid rack screws to remove them very easily. Use a #2 phillips head to remove the screws without stripping them.

3) So now you've got your rack out. I would remove all the hoses from the motor, and label with masking tape or stickers what went where. It's very important to take your time and be methodical, it'll save you later. Most of the hoses on the rack are connected to the rack, only a handful go to the motor.

4) Now take the rack to a workbench and remove the hoses one by one and replace them one at a time. Use zip ties or glue if you feel it's necessary.

5) It's a good time to remove your fuel injectors and send them out for cleaning/balancing (when I sent mine to RC they gave me new O-rings as well).

6) Before re-installing the injectors change out the insulators that sit underneath the primary injector housing (you'll understand after you get it out). And replace your Fuel Pulsation Dampner with your new unit.

7) Re-install and take your time. Change out those fuel and coolant hoses.

8) I would never use Silicon hose when connecting to oil parts i.e. PCV, (I replaced with OEM rubber ones, expensive but safer).


Side notes: when I changed the hoses I would cut along the length of the hose and gently pry the hose apart with a small flathead screwdriver. I didn't break any of my solenoids and my car had 80k at the time of the hose job. Also cut the silicon hose to length don't give too much extra, this can cause excessive bends in the lines. So measure accurately and don't let the hoses kink. This job took me awhile, but I took my time, didn't break anything and my car runs extremely well now. Good luck, and post any questions/problems/results you have.

eric

Rated R1

Good advice there Hapa. I would go against the MSD wires though. I am missing under heavy load and I have read about other people having this problem as well. Good luck.

wonder1and

My friend Pluto said that those were the wire to go with since he has researched them time and time again... he told me that his Jacob's wires were the culprit in 2 engine failures... thats what I have... I would think with the least resistance, a upgraded coil and a ignition computer. I shouldn't have that kind of trouble.
-Ryker

wonder1and

Thanks for the advise hapa... I just changed out my injectors when I had the motor redone about 10k or so ago. I think they should be fine. I will do the fuel lines and coolant hoses if my rebuilder tells me they didn't replace them.
Anything else?
Thanks,
Ryker
P.S. I remembered RP used MSD wires on their racecar... if anyone cares...

DamonB

I tried the Jacobs and didn't like the fit; went back to NGK stockers.

I also use hose from Baker Precision and did NOT zip tie them. I know I am in the minority but it is not required. I have NEVER had a hose blow off and you know my motor is run very hard at the track.

As for labeling things the best I have found are tagged zip ties. These are zip ties with a small tab on them in which you can write in permanent marker. I used them extensively when doing my hose job and engine rebuild. Love them.

For removing hardened hoses I carefully cut a slot along the length of the hose near the end with a hobby saw. I then would insert the tip of a slotted screwdriver and twist; the hoses would immediately break and fall off without damaging the plastic nipple.

The hardest hose to get at is one that connects low and on the inside of the LIM towards the front. You need VERY long needle nose to get it on.

I used the silicone on the pvc hoses at the manifold and have no issues with it.

Rated R1

I know, Steve is telling that to a lot of guys. They do have the least resistance. I think the problem lies in the boots from what I have heard. I "burped" the wires but I still am getting some ignition breakup under heavy load. I have several PMs from people that have had trouble with these wires and I have having trouble with them myself. In my opinion I would not use them, but we all no opinions are like ********... yadda yadda yadda.