Long Block Test - Rebuild Questions
#1
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Long Block Test - Rebuild Questions
to all the master rebuilders of the RX7club.
i've searched around the forum looking for tests i can do on a standing long block to make sure i haven't buggered anything drastic up before bolting everything else on and starting her up.
so far i have installed the injector plugs and turned her over by hand (well, 54mm socket) and am getting two strong 'wooshes' per revolution... so far so good.
are there any other tests i can do to make sure everything is ok?
damn i love the RX7Club, where else can a man go to find out anything about anything!?
i've searched around the forum looking for tests i can do on a standing long block to make sure i haven't buggered anything drastic up before bolting everything else on and starting her up.
so far i have installed the injector plugs and turned her over by hand (well, 54mm socket) and am getting two strong 'wooshes' per revolution... so far so good.
are there any other tests i can do to make sure everything is ok?
damn i love the RX7Club, where else can a man go to find out anything about anything!?
#4
RX-7 Bad Ass
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Really, the best is just to turn the engine by hand. It should turn smoothly with nice compression whooshes.
I built a motor once that didn't turn at all - an apex seal corner piece got stuck and the motor was stuck.
Really, if you do everything correctly and double-check yourself during assembly, the motor spins nicely and makes compression whooshes, you're good to go.
BTW, you're talking about checking the *short* block. Long block is considered to be manifolds, oil pan, turbos, etc. all bolted on.
The core of the engine itself is a staggeringly simple device - that's one of the cool things about a rotary. As long as you spec the parts out that are used in the motor, assemble it properly, etc. it will be good to go.
Dale
I built a motor once that didn't turn at all - an apex seal corner piece got stuck and the motor was stuck.
Really, if you do everything correctly and double-check yourself during assembly, the motor spins nicely and makes compression whooshes, you're good to go.
BTW, you're talking about checking the *short* block. Long block is considered to be manifolds, oil pan, turbos, etc. all bolted on.
The core of the engine itself is a staggeringly simple device - that's one of the cool things about a rotary. As long as you spec the parts out that are used in the motor, assemble it properly, etc. it will be good to go.
Dale
#5
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I'm in the process of doing the same thing. I've been checking by listening for the compression, making sure it spins easily. I also put a set of plugs in it to make sure I could feel a difference in compression with and without them.
Good luck!
Good luck!
#6
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i don't have the tranny in... so can't do cold compression but currently i'm very confident in the build and my excellent 'chugging'. i wouldn't say i can just spin the eccentric shaft or anything, but it is a smooth turn and i'm expecting some good compression numbers.
long block vs. short block... i thought the core was the short block too, but the Bruce Turrentine DVD threw me for a loop when he put a title slide up just before assembling the short block... now i realise he was prefacing the WHOLE build.
long block vs. short block... i thought the core was the short block too, but the Bruce Turrentine DVD threw me for a loop when he put a title slide up just before assembling the short block... now i realise he was prefacing the WHOLE build.