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A Little Help, Please!!!!!!!!

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Old Aug 13, 2002 | 10:42 PM
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From: Highway to Heaven between BeanTown & OTown
Question A Little Help, Please!!!!!!!!

My FD starts up fine, runs for about 3-5 minutes, then shuts off. Engine will crank as though the car wants to start again, but FD will not RESTART until the engine is cool (usually a few hours later).

Fuel pressure is fine (45-46 PSI). Compression is great. I am using a Jacobs box with after-market "leading" coil. Also using EFI computer, which EFI recentally recertified.

ANY SUGGESTIONS??????????

RESPONSES WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.
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Old Aug 13, 2002 | 10:56 PM
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From: Camarillo, Ca
What's the history of this car? Are we talking engine rebuild of some sort where something may have been hooked up wrong?
I would look into time activated devices such as the double throttle valve.

What kind of shut down is it? All of the sudden, or a stumble?
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Old Aug 13, 2002 | 11:28 PM
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sounds like something is failing to make an electrical connection when it gets hot
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Old Aug 14, 2002 | 12:00 AM
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From: Highway to Heaven between BeanTown & OTown
Originally posted by spooledUP7
What's the history of this car? Are we talking engine rebuild of some sort where something may have been hooked up wrong?
I would look into time activated devices such as the double throttle valve.

What kind of shut down is it? All of the sudden, or a stumble?

Engine was rebuilt by my mechanic. He has trouble- shooted the car back and forth, but has not found the problem. I am in the process of finding someone else, but in the mean while I am trying to help myself.

Excuse the dumb question, but how is the double trottle valve time activated???

I would say the shut down is a stumble (2-4 seconds)
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Old Aug 14, 2002 | 12:01 AM
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From: Highway to Heaven between BeanTown & OTown
Originally posted by Silver93TT
sounds like something is failing to make an electrical connection when it gets hot

Could a bad coil cause this???
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Old Aug 14, 2002 | 12:04 AM
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From: Camarillo, Ca
It's part of the accelerated warmup system and is turned on at startup (closes the double throttle plates) and turns off after a set amount of time. Your thread got me looking for my shop manual to confirm this as well as give you the duration, however I have misplaced it.
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Old Aug 14, 2002 | 12:08 AM
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Once the coolant gets to normal operating temperature the double throttle reopens. It could also be related to the fast idle cam (maybe).
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Old Aug 14, 2002 | 12:19 AM
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From: Camarillo, Ca
Well, I would scratch the double throttle valve off the possible cause list. It is heat dependent.

Trouble shooting says:
1. purge solenoid (makes sense, gas tank becomes unbalanced)
2. Charcal Canister
3. Pessure regulator control PRC system:
This system cancels the vacuum applied to the pressure regulator and increases the fuel pressure during hot engine start-up and for a period immediately following engine start-up. This improves hot starting as well as providing smooth idle.

Hmmm...

Fast idel crossed my mind as well.
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Old Aug 14, 2002 | 12:24 AM
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From: Highway to Heaven between BeanTown & OTown
Originally posted by spooledUP7
It's part of the accelerated warmup system and is turned on at startup (closes the double throttle plates) and turns off after a set amount of time. Your thread got me looking for my shop manual to confirm this as well as give you the duration, however I have misplaced it.


I believe the FD has two sets of throttle plates (AKA Flaps). My mechanic eliminated one of these sets of plates. He claims it was fof increased air flow. By elimanating one set of the plates, could this be part of the problem I am having.
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Old Aug 14, 2002 | 12:29 AM
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From: Highway to Heaven between BeanTown & OTown
Originally posted by P'cola FD
Once the coolant gets to normal operating temperature the double throttle reopens. It could also be related to the fast idle cam (maybe).
Fast idle cam???
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Old Aug 14, 2002 | 12:30 AM
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From: Camarillo, Ca
No, removal shouldn't make that big of a deal. What did he do with the vacuum line from the solenoid to the actuator?
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Old Aug 14, 2002 | 12:39 AM
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From: Highway to Heaven between BeanTown & OTown
Originally posted by spooledUP7
No, removal shouldn't make that big of a deal. What did he do with the vacuum line from the solenoid to the actuator?
not sure, but I know he also removed a device which use to sit on the passenger side of the intake manifold. It was located on the passenger side above the turbos.
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Old Aug 14, 2002 | 12:44 AM
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From: Highway to Heaven between BeanTown & OTown
Originally posted by Sarge


not sure, but I know he also removed a device which use to sit on the passenger side of the intake manifold. It was located on the passenger side above the turbos.
I am currently running a single turbo setup
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Old Aug 14, 2002 | 12:47 AM
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From: Camarillo, Ca
That's most likely the EGR valve. AS long as he put on a block off plate, you should be fine.
You may want to try and reset the ECU. If you turned the key to the on position while any of the sensors were unplugged, it's possible that the computer doesn't know what to do with its self.
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Old Aug 14, 2002 | 12:55 AM
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I mentioned the fast idle cam because it holds your idle at a little over 1,000 rpm until the car is fully warmed up (different from the AWS). After a few minutes it drops the idle back down to normal. When it lets the idle back down it could be that your idle is set too low. YOu might try adjusting your idle screw.
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Old Aug 14, 2002 | 12:59 AM
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From: Highway to Heaven between BeanTown & OTown
Originally posted by spooledUP7
That's most likely the EGR valve. AS long as he put on a block off plate, you should be fine.
You may want to try and reset the ECU. If you turned the key to the on position while any of the sensors were unplugged, it's possible that the computer doesn't know what to do with its self.
Yes he did use a block off plate.

Which sensors should I make sure are plugged in.

Oil Tem
Oil Pressure
Water Temp
Exhust Tem
Fuel Pressure
O2
Air Temp (Under intake)
Gas Temp

Am I missing any??
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Old Aug 14, 2002 | 01:03 AM
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From: Highway to Heaven between BeanTown & OTown
How do I reset the ECU, and do I unplug my EFI computer to reset it first???
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Old Aug 14, 2002 | 01:04 AM
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From: Camarillo, Ca
Fuel pump resistor
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Old Aug 14, 2002 | 01:05 AM
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From: Camarillo, Ca
No, just unplug the battery and wait a good 5-10 minutes and step on the gas pedal for a few seconds.
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Old Aug 14, 2002 | 01:06 AM
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From: Camarillo, Ca
Originally posted by P'cola FD
I mentioned the fast idle cam because it holds your idle at a little over 1,000 rpm until the car is fully warmed up (different from the AWS). After a few minutes it drops the idle back down to normal. When it lets the idle back down it could be that your idle is set too low. YOu might try adjusting your idle screw.
I second that!
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Old Aug 14, 2002 | 01:24 AM
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From: Highway to Heaven between BeanTown & OTown
Lets say my idle screw does need adjusting, would that prevent me from restarting while the car is hot???

I have a good idea where the idle screw is. I know it is on the drivers side hidden somewhere to the left and down of the oil filter, but I do not know the easy way (if there is an easy way) to get to it.
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Old Aug 14, 2002 | 01:40 AM
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From: Highway to Heaven between BeanTown & OTown
spooledUP7 and P'cola FD thanks for all the help.

Sarge
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Old Aug 14, 2002 | 10:25 AM
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From: Highway to Heaven between BeanTown & OTown
One more thing. If the idle screw does need adjusting, would the car still shut off when I am stepping on the gas? I try to keep it running by stepping on the gas. This keeps it running a little longer, but the car eventually shuts off, even with my foot on the gas.
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Old Aug 14, 2002 | 10:56 AM
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From: Highway to Heaven between BeanTown & OTown
Anyone??????
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Old Aug 14, 2002 | 12:13 PM
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From: boston
Sarge: are you getting an engine check light codes?
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