List of tasks on to do list, am I missing anything?
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From: IL
List of tasks on to do list, am I missing anything?
Purchased my '93 with 71k on it that's sat for probably 10+ years a few weeks ago and slowly starting the process of getting it up and running. Long story short; had the fuel tank cleaned out with a new fuel pump put in, oil changes and spark plugs replaced. Was able to get the car running and warmed up but shut it off due to leaking oil cooler lines.
Basically just looking at doing a few things to get the car up and running reliably but I don't plan on doing a whole lot to it as I have plans of LS swapping after summer. Here's what I came up with that I should/need to do, is there anything I'm missing?
- fresh fluids (coolant, brake, power steering, differential) and filters
- FPD delete (new injector o-rings as well)
- silicone vacuum lines
- FC thermoswitch for fans
- AST bypass or upgrade
- double throttle bypass
- simplified sequential setup
- fan switch mod
- downpipe
Basically just looking at doing a few things to get the car up and running reliably but I don't plan on doing a whole lot to it as I have plans of LS swapping after summer. Here's what I came up with that I should/need to do, is there anything I'm missing?
- fresh fluids (coolant, brake, power steering, differential) and filters
- FPD delete (new injector o-rings as well)
- silicone vacuum lines
- FC thermoswitch for fans
- AST bypass or upgrade
- double throttle bypass
- simplified sequential setup
- fan switch mod
- downpipe
This could add up VERY quickly since it sat for such a long time. Once you start digging around it makes sense to start replacing all rubber hoses, o-rings, etc.... especially on the fuel system. There have been quite a few FD's then went up in flames from leaking fuel systems.
Thoughts on your initial list:
- FPD has its purpose and should be kept. If it's leaking, get a new one.
- AST bypass or upgrade. Grab a new or used Pettit racing AST
- double throttle bypass. No real benefit unless the system is not working
- simplified sequential setup. Starts getting complicated to do this on the stock ecu.
- fan switch mod, do you mean the FC thermo switch as you mentioned above?
- downpipe, I have one sitting on the shelf, come pick it up, cheap!
Additional food for thought
-Check all the coolant hoses as they degrade nicely in the FD engine bay.
-Check/change the OMP lines when you do the silicone hoses. Stock ones get brittle and crack/leak over time. Stick with stock replacement lines, they are clear thus you can see if oil is flowing through them vs stainless braided lines.
-Check/change OMP injectors when doing the silicone hoses, they are essentially a 1 way valve.
-When replacing the injector o-rings, replace the injector diffusers. These are the plastic pieces underneath that can crack. If they do they will end up in the engine...
https://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/9...A2-13-C61.html
https://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/9...A1-13-C60.html
This is just the tip of the iceberg as there is no end to getting a "reliable" FD. Feel free to text me any questions as I have been down this path many of times.
Thoughts on your initial list:
- FPD has its purpose and should be kept. If it's leaking, get a new one.
- AST bypass or upgrade. Grab a new or used Pettit racing AST
- double throttle bypass. No real benefit unless the system is not working
- simplified sequential setup. Starts getting complicated to do this on the stock ecu.
- fan switch mod, do you mean the FC thermo switch as you mentioned above?
- downpipe, I have one sitting on the shelf, come pick it up, cheap!
Additional food for thought
-Check all the coolant hoses as they degrade nicely in the FD engine bay.
-Check/change the OMP lines when you do the silicone hoses. Stock ones get brittle and crack/leak over time. Stick with stock replacement lines, they are clear thus you can see if oil is flowing through them vs stainless braided lines.
-Check/change OMP injectors when doing the silicone hoses, they are essentially a 1 way valve.
-When replacing the injector o-rings, replace the injector diffusers. These are the plastic pieces underneath that can crack. If they do they will end up in the engine...
https://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/9...A2-13-C61.html
https://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/9...A1-13-C60.html
This is just the tip of the iceberg as there is no end to getting a "reliable" FD. Feel free to text me any questions as I have been down this path many of times.
This could add up VERY quickly since it sat for such a long time. Once you start digging around it makes sense to start replacing all rubber hoses, o-rings, etc.... especially on the fuel system. There have been quite a few FD's then went up in flames from leaking fuel systems.
Thoughts on your initial list:
- FPD has its purpose and should be kept. If it's leaking, get a new one.
- AST bypass or upgrade. Grab a new or used Pettit racing AST
- double throttle bypass. No real benefit unless the system is not working
- simplified sequential setup. Starts getting complicated to do this on the stock ecu.
- fan switch mod, do you mean the FC thermo switch as you mentioned above?
- downpipe, I have one sitting on the shelf, come pick it up, cheap!
Additional food for thought
-Check all the coolant hoses as they degrade nicely in the FD engine bay.
-Check/change the OMP lines when you do the silicone hoses. Stock ones get brittle and crack/leak over time. Stick with stock replacement lines, they are clear thus you can see if oil is flowing through them vs stainless braided lines.
-Check/change OMP injectors when doing the silicone hoses, they are essentially a 1 way valve.
-When replacing the injector o-rings, replace the injector diffusers. These are the plastic pieces underneath that can crack. If they do they will end up in the engine...
https://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/9...A2-13-C61.html
https://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/9...A1-13-C60.html
This is just the tip of the iceberg as there is no end to getting a "reliable" FD. Feel free to text me any questions as I have been down this path many of times.
Thoughts on your initial list:
- FPD has its purpose and should be kept. If it's leaking, get a new one.
- AST bypass or upgrade. Grab a new or used Pettit racing AST
- double throttle bypass. No real benefit unless the system is not working
- simplified sequential setup. Starts getting complicated to do this on the stock ecu.
- fan switch mod, do you mean the FC thermo switch as you mentioned above?
- downpipe, I have one sitting on the shelf, come pick it up, cheap!
Additional food for thought
-Check all the coolant hoses as they degrade nicely in the FD engine bay.
-Check/change the OMP lines when you do the silicone hoses. Stock ones get brittle and crack/leak over time. Stick with stock replacement lines, they are clear thus you can see if oil is flowing through them vs stainless braided lines.
-Check/change OMP injectors when doing the silicone hoses, they are essentially a 1 way valve.
-When replacing the injector o-rings, replace the injector diffusers. These are the plastic pieces underneath that can crack. If they do they will end up in the engine...
https://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/9...A2-13-C61.html
https://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/9...A1-13-C60.html
This is just the tip of the iceberg as there is no end to getting a "reliable" FD. Feel free to text me any questions as I have been down this path many of times.
- Any original rubber is suspect.
- If you get down to your injectors, send them out for testing/cleaning. They will come back with new O-rings.
- Replace your FPD if it is leaking or not. If it's not leaking now, it will.
- Check all your solenoids and actuators. There's a how to you can find by searching
- Replace your fuel filter if you haven't done so already
- If you have a stock radiator, replace it with an AL one and flush your coolant several times
- Check your compression and do a coolant pressure test. This should probably be number one. Now may be a good time for a rebuild if it's needed (vs later having to yank everything you just replaced to get the motor out)
- Suspension. Is probably tired
And, get your car up and running before making any performance mods
It's too late now, but it's a good idea to pull the ECU fuse and crank until you build oil pressure, then replace fuse and try to start the engine. You have stone dry bearings everywhere.
Really, gas/coolant/oil/plugs/brake fluid/battery and you're ready to go. Drive some around your neighborhood and do a lot of looking over. The car will tell you what it needs.
A sitting car doesn't necessarily turn into a delicate china flower. There's a lot that would be nice to do, but just do them as you get time, like the vacuum lines.
Dale
Really, gas/coolant/oil/plugs/brake fluid/battery and you're ready to go. Drive some around your neighborhood and do a lot of looking over. The car will tell you what it needs.
A sitting car doesn't necessarily turn into a delicate china flower. There's a lot that would be nice to do, but just do them as you get time, like the vacuum lines.
Dale
