Just finished installing the Summit racing battery box with the install kit at 3:30 in the morning. Went pretty good and looks clean as hell. I highly recommend the Summit box with the install kit. They sent me anything i could possibly need, which i didn't use half of either.

Here's the pics as promised:

Before:

The kit


Install process:
Interior pieces removed



Holes drilled through trunk i found that the center worked best for me. One hole was just above the diff and the other as shown in pic.



Box bolted down.

Battery installed, cables ran.

Cable ran through firewall...i used the engine harness hole and modified the boot. Sorry, i couldn't get a good pic.

Positive installed on fuse block.

Everything hooked up with interior installed but before tool clean up.


And the product:

 

What kind of seats are those?

 

Looks very nice, i probably need to do that as well, Mine is currently in the passenger bin.

Tmay: they look like stock R1 seats to me.

 

Why so many vacuum hoses in that passenger corner of the engine bay?

 

Relocated solenoids by Saxyman990.

 

^ That is correct. Worth every penny i might add...

 

thanks for posting pics, i'll be doing this as well and this helps.

btw, nice garage space...

 

No problem. That's actually why i took so many pictures. When i searched, i couldn't find anything so i figured i was obligated to do so.

Ya the garage really helps when doing installs, or when it's freezing outside for that matter...

Good luck with yours too

 

Sorry if i missed it but how are you holding down the batt box to the trunk space?

Cause i bought a batt box (aluminum) and there is no way to hold it down to where its gonna sit. Should the weight of the batt be sufficient?

I might just ghetto rig an alum bar or plate that runs all across the top and onto or into the strut towers. So at least the batt box is stable.

Looks clean btw.

 

wouldn't it have been shorter to run along the driver's side?

 

>> Sorry if i missed it but how are you holding down the batt box to the trunk space?

Cause i bought a batt box (aluminum) and there is no way to hold it down to where its gonna sit. Should the weight of the batt be sufficient?

I might just ghetto rig an alum bar or plate that runs all across the top and onto or into the strut towers. So at least the batt box is stable.

Looks clean btw.


Mine comes with the studs and nuts that you run to the bottom of the car. It ends up sandwiching the whole setup together. And the battery wont hold it down on hard turns.


>> wouldn't it have been shorter to run along the driver's side?

Yes but i had to already remove a power cable that was there from my old sound system so i just used the existing path.

 

looks good man, i like good job. i just relocated my batt to the pass. bin and used lots of summit parts.

 

I hope the power cable did not stay on top of the UIM like that and you went around the motor by the battery. If not, move it now or you may get an electrical fire. And did you loom the power cable in the engine bay? Also add some loom to the groung and power in the rear (not needed, but cleans up the install.) and even if the power was ran on the passenger side before, it would have been a safer install running it on the driver side.

Didn't see a final picture of any of this, that's why I am mentioning this.

Luigi

 

Do you have any kind of fuse between the battery and the engine bay connection on the power cable?

 

Yeah i ran it around the engine bay. All my pictures of the whole engine came out blurry part from drinking so many energy drinks to keep me awake. And i did loom the engine bay but i used the extra that i had left over from someone else's car so there wasn't any extra, maybe 2 inches, to do the trunk.

How is it safer on the drivers side? Just curious...



There's no fuse on the power cable. I'll probably do it someday. I know it's a whole safety thing but a properly working electrical system and a correctly ran power and ground cable should not need one. The only way the fuse would trip would be if something rubbed through the power cable causing it to short or may be an insufficient size cable, which isn't the case with a 1gauge cable.

 

All power cables should be fused.

As far as running it on the driver side, there is less parts on our cars, that run hot on that side. I worked for a stereo shop, most cars are like that.

 

I thought to be "legal" it needed a remote-disconnect system.

 

I agree.

I already have my battery mounted in the rear bin location. Im cutting that existing power cable, installing a fuse block with a 120A fuse in between and continuing another 2 feet or so of power cable to the hatch area.

Im hoping for no problems in the future.