EFS.O

The symptoms indicate blown coolant seal and? leaky injectors.Let the car rest for a night.In the morning remove and check each spark plug.If you find a spark plug wet with coolant,you have a blown coolant seal.

Sr20fd3st

i'd just like to add imcombatting a similar issue. just got my new motor in and its running rich ( u can smell it extremely) but the smoke is thick thick white. no cooleant leaks as it ran for +30 minutes with no loss in coolant, never overheated, good oil pressure. Im thinking possible leading coil problem but it starts up pretty easily, a little rough but never failed to start up. i have checked me injectors and they arent leaking i just pulled the whole thing..primary and secondary rail up enough to see injectors and jumped fuel pump the get fuel pressure and also made each injector ope to make sure they werent sticking open. all injectors checked out fine. it idles at 800 rpm but a little rough. revs up smooth. in neutral at idle its not as bad with the smoke but god in neutral with a good rev to 300 rpm my neighborhood is a smokescreen. when i drive it on the road the smoke clears within 30 seconds of partial throttle driving and it appears that with load, and someonewhat open throttle, the smoke goes away....next step..recheck ignition lol

could this be because of a cat that had been foiled from excess richness and now is hot and burning the fuel off without igniting it? perhaps the excess unburnt fuel is simply dripping into the cat and building up and once it gets hot its burning off..who knows.. help? i also have a thread is started on this

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/engine-smoke-new-motor-634490/

Monsterbox

iTrader: (6)

i am running br10eix....could it possibly be that the plugs are too cold when the car starts up?

rynberg

No, I am running those same plugs, in the leading anyway (trailing are stock 9s). Your symptoms have nothing to do with spark plugs.

Ripzta

What does it mean if the injectors tick constantly on idle? Tick,tick,tick,tick, tick constant rythmn with a little engine shaking?

Sr20fd3st

ticking is good..means they are opening and closing correctly. if it was a thud they would be sticking a little. ticking means the nozzle is clean most likely, since u can hear the seats hitting each time...so ticking is good...as far as iv ever known with my scope

mono4lamar

iTrader: (32)

Im almost starting to think this is my whole problem. I have the kg ultimate fuel system and a supra pump in my car. From the begining The pressure would bleed off. I would sometimes get smokey startups, and i also have sometimes had to hold it to 2k for 10 seconds let off and have it stay at 900rpms. Sometimes i'll start the car up and it will hunt at 4-- 500 rpms. I also can be driving for 20 mins with no problem then after that period the car will buck above 3k but get worse in the lower rpms. It def feels like it runs on one rotor at points and at idle you can hear the one rotor just doing the work. Also last night after i pulled the car into my shop i let it idle for 10 minutes at 900 and was confused how it was running so good. I then decided to turn it off and restart it. As I started it back up it idled at 4-- 500 rpms! Could this be part of the ignition or the ignition timing? I'm just posting this cause some of my symptoms are the same. Should i just send out all of my injectors to get cleaned? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

mono4lamar

iTrader: (32)

I also forgot to mention that I sometimes get smoke out when I run it from a dig... Input?

bryant

same problem i had and the injector gromets and air bleds were broken and or leaking.
will flame for 10 seconds after you get on it good! (burn the Paint)
also sounded like a streetport.. but stock motor
my car had 73,000 at the time.

bryant

carbin waiting to be cleared by your foot .

Sr20fd3st

i had the exact symtpoms when my front trailing plug cracked at the ceramic and it was arching like a ****. look down there while its running and check it out. you'll see a big spark along with a loud tick tick noise. even worse could be a single leading plug. either way test spark at all 4 plugs and get new plugs to be safe or atleast check em to make sure they arent fucked up.

btw i posted a while back and all my smoke was from horribly leaking turbos. that problem is solved. i got it to run great and from swapping out different plugs and trying different heat ranges and iridiums i mustv cracked the front trailing. i got a Big hefty zap when i went to check the plug boots while it was running and grounded myself on the strut tower bar and got the **** zapped out of me holy crap. but it ran like how you describe. very hesitant, felt like 1 rotor going, shaky as ****. put in a new plug and runs like gold now

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Sounds like you need tuning more than anything else.

mono4lamar

iTrader: (32)

^ well the strange thing is... When i first was breaking in the new motor everything was fine.
I have looked into the plugs. Im running the stock 7's and 9's and for some reason the trailings are nicely browned. Yet the leadings are black with a slight rippled texture! I have an amp for the leadings right now so its strange to see them look fouled.
Im wondering what i should try to do. I'm going to most likely tear the car apart and send all the injectors out to get serviced. I have to tear the turbo and mani off as I'm having a problem with the turbo rattling the bolts that have lock washers, and are lock-tited. So I'll just have to double nut this bitch now.
The reason I think its not really the map is the trailing plugs are not fouled out. The only thing I can think of that may be a problem is the amp isn't getting a good ground so I'll check the resistance on that and maybe add a better grounding source.
Any other ideas???

Sr20fd3st

try tps. before i found it was my cracked plug all the symptoms in the fsm lead me to believe it was the TPS. and if i unplug the tps now all those symptoms do occur. u wont get a CEL now since u have the PFC but it did trigger a CEL for me and all the same **** happened. check your tps voltage signals with the commander or datalogit i guess and check that it's getting a reading and that it's in spec.

Monsterbox

iTrader: (6)

well i just pulled the ***** and sent them to be cleaned we will know the answer soon

mono4lamar

iTrader: (32)

Can't be the tps for me. I have set it within spec 5 times and even put my spare in there, same situation still. I wish there were a better quality set of top feed 850's out there identical to the seimens that you get from kg. For some reason I think its the 850s but theres no way to tell unless I send them out or get different injectors. I love all the problems that happen one after another...

Sr20fd3st

yea, problems come in waves, it's awesome isn't it.

Trjackson

What generally cuases excessive Oiling?

Ty

rxrotary2_7

.... send them to me for testing. http://kgparts.com/index.php?page=fuelinjectclean You bought them from us, I will take care of you. Just shoot me a PM or call to discuss before you send them in.
thanks
-KG

mono4lamar

iTrader: (32)

^Thanks Keith, I was going to send them to you at the end of the week with a couple more to get cleaned... I'll call the shop tomorrow.

Ty, what do you mean excessive oiling?

Sr20fd3st

excessive oilling? well the oil injectors...pretty sure they increase oil with vacuum. atleast thas what makes sense to me the way they are hooked up. but the FSM i think reads that a faulty vac line to the oil injectors can cause excessive oilling. the vac lines are at the turbo inlet, so seems that higher boost = more turbo intake vac would = more oil but dunno.

rynberg

I've seen an OMP fail and lock in the full output position, no matter the vacuum/boost level. The car smoked like a mother at idle and low rpm.

Trjackson

Like for example, once my car get to operating tempature, I drive and a few blocks down the road it starts smoking like a diesel. Then you tap the gas, and it does away! It does it rarely, but does it almost everyday(does that make sense?). I mean, it does it at least once a day, but that is all, just on first time start up then getting to operating temp, generally. Also, there is a glitch with my oil pressure gauge and low level light, they seem to be hay-wire but oil level is at full. I am paranoid, I check my oil everyday!

Ty

Sr20fd3st

could be a tiny oil leak in the exhaust side of the turbos. if you let it sit while it's warming up, the oil pressure will cause the oil to seep out of the turbos into the downpipe and some will burn off and some will collect at the bottom. as soon as you go to drive it all the extra exhaust and heat will burn and blow the oil/smoke out until it clears out. after that, while your driving it's continuously blowing the exhaust out so much faster that it doesnt really get a chance to build up and smoke like when you let it sit and idle. i had this same problem but a little worse than you describe. i still saw traces of smoke when i drove it.

while you're driving it, see what happens when you cruise at really low throttle i.e. cruise while your vac gauge shows like less than 5 inhg and see if you notice any smoke, then see if it goes away when you get at or over 0 psi

rynberg, would a MOP like that throw a code ?

bryant

and the outcome was??