large coolant leak near the turbos - looking for input
large coolant leak near the turbos - looking for input
So, the other day my FD coolant buzzer went off. I figured my overflow had run low, but when I opened the hood I found green water over the intake area. Turned her on with the hood open and gave her some revs to find the leak.
Turns out I have a pretty catastrophic leak near the turbos. I'm under the impression it's the coolant feed or return for said turbos. If you know of other culprits in the general region behind the airpump, speak up.
We're all shop averse, for good reason. I'd like to fix this myself. Unless I'm on the wrong trail, I'm not anticipating a huge hassle. Any idea what I'm up against time and difficulty wise? I've stripped most of the top end stuff before, but never removed or refurb'd the turbos.
Turns out I have a pretty catastrophic leak near the turbos. I'm under the impression it's the coolant feed or return for said turbos. If you know of other culprits in the general region behind the airpump, speak up.
We're all shop averse, for good reason. I'd like to fix this myself. Unless I'm on the wrong trail, I'm not anticipating a huge hassle. Any idea what I'm up against time and difficulty wise? I've stripped most of the top end stuff before, but never removed or refurb'd the turbos.
There is a supply and return line for the turbos. They're small maybe 1/2" diameter lines that are maybe 4" in length. They're just above the primary turbo. Theyre kind of tight to get to. Just be patient and line them up before you try and slip them on. Use new clamps on them as well. Removing the air pump will also help in getting to them.
If you can tear off your uim and do rats nest work then this will be way easy.
Matt
If you can tear off your uim and do rats nest work then this will be way easy.
Matt
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
I'd replace both at the same time..... common failure point due to the extreme heat they're constantly subjected to.
Use dykes or something similar to cut both hoses in half, then use a new sharp razor blade and cut each half off the nipples lengthwise. A small flatblade makes it easier to then peel them off the nipples.
When installing the new hoses, lube the inner bore of each end liberally with WD40, and make sure the coolant nipples have been cleaned of any crust or nastiness.
Yeah, I've done this job a few times
Use dykes or something similar to cut both hoses in half, then use a new sharp razor blade and cut each half off the nipples lengthwise. A small flatblade makes it easier to then peel them off the nipples.
When installing the new hoses, lube the inner bore of each end liberally with WD40, and make sure the coolant nipples have been cleaned of any crust or nastiness.
Yeah, I've done this job a few times
Yeah, it's a pretty easy fix. I think the hardest part is removing the air pump if you have one.
I would definitely replace both, and replace with new Mazda hoses. Reuse the stock spring hose clamps, worm drive clamps don't work as well and can cut into the hoses.
+1 on WD-40 on the hoses, they will slip right into place and you'll be driving in no time.
Dale
I would definitely replace both, and replace with new Mazda hoses. Reuse the stock spring hose clamps, worm drive clamps don't work as well and can cut into the hoses.
+1 on WD-40 on the hoses, they will slip right into place and you'll be driving in no time.
Dale
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