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I found some wheel studs that will fit the RX-7 and are approximately 54 mm long below the head. Attached is the chart from the Brand Kyo-ei; the model is SBZ-A. It's only $60 for a set of 20.
54mm is roughly 2.12 inches. ARP has options for 2.5" and 3.25". I need the extened stud's to run spacers. OEM according to J-Auto is 1 5/8" (1.625) inches which is 41.275 mm.
So OEM 41.275 mm vs 54mm studs. Should I be good to run 15mm worth of spacers? The difference between OEM and Kyo-Ei is almost 13mm but I'm assuming that the stock studs themselves had some room to run at least 3mm of spacers?
You're going about this all wrong. Theres no NEED to run spacers. Especially ones that would necessitate the use of a longer wheel stud. If you bought the wrong wheels, buy the right wheels. Whether it be caliper clearance or just wanting better fitment, this scenario you've laid out shouldn't be taking place.
A slip on spacer greater than 5mm should not be necessary and if going for a bolt on spacer then stock studs are required. The whole spacer mentality has gotten a little out of hand and a mass of people are really using them incorrectly or just outright abusing them.
Do not pursue whatever the intent of this thread is and get the correct wheels instead of trying to augment what you have with spacers and cheap wheel studs..... please
You're going about this all wrong. Theres no NEED to run spacers. Especially ones that would necessitate the use of a longer wheel stud. If you bought the wrong wheels, buy the right wheels. Whether it be caliper clearance or just wanting better fitment, this scenario you've laid out shouldn't be taking place.
A slip on spacer greater than 5mm should not be necessary and if going for a bolt on spacer then stock studs are required. The whole spacer mentality has gotten a little out of hand and a mass of people are really using them incorrectly or just outright abusing them.
Do not pursue whatever the intent of this thread is and get the correct wheels instead of trying to augment what you have with spacers and cheap wheel studs..... please
Hubcentric wheel spacers from a quality company are safe and fine. If you want to argue they wear out your hubs faster, I don’t disagree. But it’s no different from running a wheel with a more aggressive offset.
I am at max concavity and lowest offset within the 10” wheel I’m running. I need a 2 mm spacer minimum to clear BBK and probably within 8-12mm of spacer to fill in the wide body.
Last edited by IWANTTHEFD; Sep 12, 2024 at 08:11 AM.
I am at max concavity and lowest offset within the 10” wheel I’m running. I need a 2 mm spacer minimum to clear BBK and probably within 8-12mm of spacer to fill in the wide body.
This is key. Which came first, the BBK or your wheels?
Never heard of Kyo-Ei but that’s not unusual for me. Maybe they’re good. But it sounds like you’re picking them because they’re cheaper than ARP. If so, price and cost are often two different things. Also, be aware that you’ll be buying new rear hub bearings to change those studs. The rear bearing is a split race. The bearing has to be removed to install studs but you can’t press them out without destroying them.
This is key. Which came first, the BBK or your wheels?
Never heard of Kyo-Ei but that’s not unusual for me. Maybe they’re good. But it sounds like you’re picking them because they’re cheaper than ARP. If so, price and cost are often two different things. Also, be aware that you’ll be buying new rear hub bearings to change those studs. The rear bearing is a split race. The bearing has to be removed to install studs but you can’t press them out without destroying them.
Yes, I got the bearings ready. I’ve decided just to go with ARP to have the extra length.