Keeping AC and removing PS
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,953
Likes: 1
From: West Palm Beach - FL
Keeping AC and removing PS
Hey, my block is out of the car for right now and I am selling my PS pump. I am having my steering rack converted to a manual rack and would like to keep my AC. I will cut the top of the PS/AC bracket off but I have a question. How will I get the belt tight because now I will have a belt run from the Crank puley to the AC pulley? Has anyone made a custom tensioner pulley to do this?
Thanks,
Phil
Thanks,
Phil
I don't think I've seen anyone on this forum remove the PS but keep the AC. They usually keep both or remove both.
I would imagine Garfinkle would probably whip something up for you.
I would imagine Garfinkle would probably whip something up for you.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,953
Likes: 1
From: West Palm Beach - FL
Originally Posted by Mahjik
I don't think I've seen anyone on this forum remove the PS but keep the AC. They usually keep both or remove both.
I would imagine Garfinkle would probably whip something up for you.
I would imagine Garfinkle would probably whip something up for you.
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Lwnslw and I will be studying this shortly as soon as I get a spare PS bracket to try it out.
Think of it as the "Florida Only" Tension Pulley
Perhaps if there is enough interest a vendor could fab up a special bracket/grooved pulley?
Hint, Hint?
^ Yep, that would be awesome.
I know many people ditch the PS, and with good reason. But AC is a little harder to swallow for a street driven car. Especially anywhere close to the south. ****, it was 93deg in NJ today, and suppose to be 99 tomorrow......
Who wants to step up to the fabrication plate?.... paypal ready
I know many people ditch the PS, and with good reason. But AC is a little harder to swallow for a street driven car. Especially anywhere close to the south. ****, it was 93deg in NJ today, and suppose to be 99 tomorrow......
Who wants to step up to the fabrication plate?.... paypal ready
. Stepping outside is like a hair dryer to the face.AC is simply nice to have no matter how hot it gets..... When your making good power, and have your cooling mods sorted, there is no reason not to have it. PS on the other hand is simply not needed for our cars.
I'd like a solution as well.
What we need is for someone with alot of time and good boots to grab their old idler pulley and hit the junkyards (i.e. Automotive recycling centers) and find something with the same size mounting bolt, roughly the same diameter but grooved instead of smooth. Post the make, year and model it came out of and then lazy asses like me will order a new one online for something like $35.
What we need is for someone with alot of time and good boots to grab their old idler pulley and hit the junkyards (i.e. Automotive recycling centers) and find something with the same size mounting bolt, roughly the same diameter but grooved instead of smooth. Post the make, year and model it came out of and then lazy asses like me will order a new one online for something like $35.
I used a groved pully instead of the stock Idler.
I'd have to go research to find what exact car it came from but there are a few.
These types of modifications aren't hard they just take some effort.
I put a FC manual rack in my FD (haven't seen anyone do that.....) so I didn't need PS.
I also put a Ford Taurus SHO alternator (130A) to replace the crapy FD one........
I'd have to go research to find what exact car it came from but there are a few.
These types of modifications aren't hard they just take some effort.
I put a FC manual rack in my FD (haven't seen anyone do that.....) so I didn't need PS.
I also put a Ford Taurus SHO alternator (130A) to replace the crapy FD one........
Hey, my block is out of the car for right now and I am selling my PS pump. I am having my steering rack converted to a manual rack and would like to keep my AC. I will cut the top of the PS/AC bracket off but I have a question. How will I get the belt tight because now I will have a belt run from the Crank puley to the AC pulley? Has anyone made a custom tensioner pulley to do this?
Thanks,
Phil
Thanks,
Phil
:-) neil
FD is 90A
This guy is 130A
I have a compare pic
Has an external regulator (bonus imo)
Only need a small spacer for the back
Pulley bolts up (I swapped a stock so that it's not under driven)
Got this reman for 80 bucks shipped to my door.
Alternator 1994 - 1995 Ford Taurus W/SHO
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT
Bought the conversion kit for the 3G alternators (has plug I needed)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT
Rest is easy because you already have the two wires you need from the stock alternator.
Included a pic of the grooved idler pulley.....
This guy is 130A
I have a compare pic
Has an external regulator (bonus imo)
Only need a small spacer for the back
Pulley bolts up (I swapped a stock so that it's not under driven)
Got this reman for 80 bucks shipped to my door.
Alternator 1994 - 1995 Ford Taurus W/SHO
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT
Bought the conversion kit for the 3G alternators (has plug I needed)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT
Rest is easy because you already have the two wires you need from the stock alternator.
Included a pic of the grooved idler pulley.....
Seems like it would drift & lead to a lot of belt wear. But hey, if it hangs in there, it could be a temporary solution.
I will experiment with this solution further. I think a decent pulley & some shims/washers should get the alignment right. I have an extra Civic idler laying around. I'll let you all know.







