just started engine for first time....
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just started engine for first time....
So, I primed the fuel pump by connecting the GND and the F/P terminal to build the fuel pressure. Then I removed the EGI fuse and cranked it for 12 seconds to build oil pressure. Then I did it again for another 10 seconds. Then I put the fuse back and and cranked it to start it. just cranks again as if the EGI is removed again. I give it a second and repeat the crank another 2 or 3 times for 6 seconds at a time. Then I check the coil pack and WA LA...it isn't plugged into the harness....so, I plug it and and crank it and it starts. However, it started and revved to 3k rpms! (yes, I have that emissions portion removed where it starts off high) so I quickly turned it off and heard a WOOOOOSH! I looked under the car and right under my dual oil cooler setup is about a quart of oil on the ground! I traced it to the big hardline that runs the length of both coolers connecting them to eachother. However, on my car, that line was cut and a 4 inch section of the hardline was removed. So, i replaced it with a rubber line, but apparently didn't clamp it tight enough (just used small factory spring clamps....should have used screw clamps) So, I am wondering...did I just build way too much oil pressure during the 3 times I was cranking before I realized the coil pack wasn't plugged in, or is it that highly pressurized?
Also, I am wondering if the air adjustment screw is open under the TB..should I completely close it? Would that cause the idle to zoom to 3k? I know that back in september when the engine blew, it was idling bad of course, and I was trying to adjust the idle...so I think I may have opened that screw a lot and forgot to close it. Also, it seems there is a small oil pan leak too! I know that the oil loss was at that weak point in the dual cooler setup...and I know it was because I didn't have the mediator rubber hose clamped onto both ends of the hardline properly either...scares me and makes me think I damaged the motor already, but I don't see how that is possible....
Trev
Also, I am wondering if the air adjustment screw is open under the TB..should I completely close it? Would that cause the idle to zoom to 3k? I know that back in september when the engine blew, it was idling bad of course, and I was trying to adjust the idle...so I think I may have opened that screw a lot and forgot to close it. Also, it seems there is a small oil pan leak too! I know that the oil loss was at that weak point in the dual cooler setup...and I know it was because I didn't have the mediator rubber hose clamped onto both ends of the hardline properly either...scares me and makes me think I damaged the motor already, but I don't see how that is possible....
Trev
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well, I went down today and adjusted the air adj screw under the TB by completely loosening it this time. Sure enough, it starts up and revs right to about 4k and I shut it down. Found the oil leak...it was in that rubber hose I rigged for the dual oil cooler setup....now I will have to come up with a fix for that, or just go back to a single cooler and forget this mess....but I can't figure out this idle on startup....why is it soaring like crazy right to 4k?
Trev
Trev
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Well, I am an idiot. I blocked the AWS off, but I left it plugged in and left it dangling because I thought it would throw a CEL. However, instead, it still put the signal to the ECU to throw it into the AWS. I removed that, and now I am constructing a little hardpipe to fix the oil cooler issue.
Trev
Trev
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