Hey people, i just wanted to let my fellow rx7 friends in on this if you havent heard about it yet
on the LIGHTNING IN A WORLD OF THUNDER has a write up on the O-RING fix, DUDE it works, only thing i didnt use was the water hose but i followed it to a tee and it works, my buzzer was going off and i would check the overflow tank and it would be full and i would have just a lil white smoke from the rear but to me it was normal but then i had some coolant leak near or on top of the engine block, so i aid let me give it a try, i did it and iit works so to all good luck hope it works for you

http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/o-ring_fix.html
thats the website so good luck

 

Very nice, I'm glad it worked out for you. Unfortunately for those who do blow the motor...

 

well this is for those who are on the edge, man im telling i was expecting my coolant light to go off and nothing just do it and it should work

 

I'm having similar problems, I will be doing this procedure very soon. Too bad I hadn't heard about this earlier, as I put my koyo radiator and new hoses in tuesday. Josh

 

talljosh85 it wont get in the way of that you have to drain out the coolant anyway so go head and do it only thing you will have to do on the radiator side is burp the enigine when your dont to get all the air bubbles out

 

You might want to read through this thread:

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=191608

 

so your saying that the bockweled wont last

 

Thanks for the advice, mazda/feed. Josh

 

Did you read the thread? Not that it won't last, but it can damage/clog your coolant passages (just think about all the places your coolant goes, radiator, heater core, turbos, etc).

If you plan on replacing those items when you finally do get to a rebuild/reman, then it's not a problem.

 

"Just Saved Myself $4500 On Engine Rebuild"

Not exactly. How about "Just postponed $4500 On Engine Rebuild".

Another thread...
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=174747

 

I too have done the procedure.

Twice, actually.

First time is worked only for a while.

Second time I did it, I just left the product in and am running no coolant, just water and the sealer. And it has been perfect for a couple thousand miles now, no leaks, no overheating. Perfect.

Now....the big question in my mind is what the hell am I gonna do this winter? I hesitate to flush the system and put in antifreeze again, as I think it eventually eats away the sealer and then you will have the leak again.
But there is no way to avoid it, as it gets very cold here in the winter.

Of course, the only REAL fix is to rebuild the engine. But.....trying to find THE shop to fix it right and have it last is something of a dilemma. There have been a lot of posts that say something to the effect of "only 6K on rebuild and it is shot..."

When I do an engine replacement/rebuild I expect it to last at least 50K miles if it is a rotary, and twice that if it is a piston engine car.

 

Blockweld can be used any car for a multitude of reasons. Yes, it is not going to last forever, but until it fails who cares. If it does use it again until the motor finally gives out. What's the big deal?

 

If other components are damaged in the process, then you are adding to the cost of the inevitable rebuild.

 

well i agree with jasil as long as i get the bennifit of making the time go buy then its kool, so tell me guys are you saying that a R?R will only last for about 6k maybe i was reading that reply wrong. but all and all i was just trying to help some guys that was in the same boat that i was

 

WHO EVER SAID A REBUILD LAST ONLY 6k GO SHOVE IT ITS NOT TRUE
YES I DOES MATTER HOW THE REBUILD IS DONE BUT I DID IT IN MY GARAGE AND NOTHING HAPPENED 100KS NOW AND STILL NOTHING SO 6k IS BULLSHIT

 

ohhh ok kool because i was going to buy a supra if that was the case lol but i could never give up my 7 i know you feel the same way guys

 

Good God...such a ******' newbie! Don't ever tell ME shove it, got it?
No one ever said that all rebuilds only last a few thousand miles, but there have been many, MANY posts from many, MANY people that have had newly rebuilt engines go 'boom' after only a short period of time. This is usually attributed to a less than reputable rebuilder using suspect parts. The whole point is to simply make sure you use a professional that has good "word of mouth" amongst the rotary community.
NO one wants to spend the time, effort and money on a rebuild just to have it fail prematurely.

 

bajaman, I wonder if disconecting the battery and running an electrical current through the radiator would do anything? All you need is a little heat to keep it from freezing.

 

And when did you do your rebuild?Since it took most of the sevens about 8-10 years to get 100k miles on them! Just wandering? If your that good maybe i'll send mine to you! Hahaha! NO!!!

 

Just saw where your from. You probably meant kilometers heh? Either way it takes awile to get that many?

 

Not really if you actually drive the car. Average mileage for car is around 15,000 miles per year. If you add in long trips, scenic drives, track time, ect, you can easily put 20,000 miles on it per year. That would make it a 3-4 year old rebuild.

Regardless of that, rebuilds and remans can last well beyond that limit. It's all in the care of the car.

The problem when you see someone blow a new/rebuilt engine is the fact that they didn't fix the problem that caused the first engine to go. They just simply slapped in a new motor and expected everything to be peachy.

 

Well, you know there are a lot of things I could do, but the most likely is I will put antifreeze back in and see what happens. If it starts to leak again, then I will just have to bite the bullet and do the rebuild. As I have said before, the coolant 'O' ring failure is a long, lingering freaky kind of death to the rotary engine....and when the sealer fix works, it is like you have a new lease on life for a while.
I just hate that I had to use about half of my engine rebuild fund for some other unexpected expenses not too long ago.....sigh.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Mahjik
[B]Not really if you actually drive the car. Average mileage for car is around 15,000 miles per year. If you add in long trips, scenic drives, track time, ect, you can easily put 20,000 miles on it per year. That would make it a 3-4 year old rebuild.
Couldn't agree more! I just am noticing that most that are for sale have under or around 100k on them. I bought mine with 72000 and have around 96-97k now. 1 years driving and almost a year buying parts for the rebuild.(Can't make up my mind) Like you said... fix the original problem and it will last.(if your nice to it) And definatly drive it! It hurts them to let it sit and only putt around every now and then. I wasn't trying to step on anybody's feet...Sorry if i did! Unintentional.

 

so guy wich is beter maybe i imissing something is the R&R beter than a new engine, i was going to let KD rotary to my engine job for 4500 i want a new damn engine i think that its only fair what do you guys think about it

 

There really is no such thing as "new" engine (i.e. one that nobody has ever used). I believe Mazdatrix sells the parts to create a completely new engine, however, I hear that just the parts alone run upwards of $8000.

Take a look at Pineapple Racing for a rebuild. They do quality work with a 5 year warranty. Very good deal.

http://www.pineappleracing.com/