thegemini

No more emissions ever.


Just had a few questions about exhaust systems and setups guys are running that do not have to go through emissions

I already have the down pipe but I was thinking about adding a the Resonated Main Cat Pipe vs the one with the hiflow cat, then after market exhaust .

Also considering removing the air pump.

To you guys out there running this setup, how is the drive ability effected? The sound?

Do I absolutely need the Fuel computer first?

I had a second gen with the full racing beat setup but it was a NA.

djseven

iTrader: (56)

If you keep boost at or below 10psi you will be fine on the stock ecu. In Phoenix that shouldnt be difficult, in cooler climates boost creep can be a bitch to fight.

You will get a big power boost going to a full 3" exhaust, I still suggest the hi-flow cat though, if you dont want to smell like fuel when you get done driving.

With a stock ported engine, if everything is in good shape the car will actually run great with the emissions deleted. Shouldnt change driveability at all. If the car is sequential the catback is not that important for keeping noise down. Obviously some are quieter than others but most sound just find with the flapper still in the turbo manifold.

thegemini

Thanks for the info, the car only has 32,000 miles on it. Was completely stock.

sevensix

iTrader: (1)

wish i could make my car smog exempt in CA too

adam c

iTrader: (2)

What does classic insurance have to do with this thread?

RENESISFD

iTrader: (13)

^ I would assume that in Arizona if the car is registered as a classic there is no need for emissions testing/inspection in that state. Why the last word in the title is "insurance"? I do not know.

So he/she is asking basic questions that have been answered countless times before about what happens when he/she removes and adds certain equipment related to emissions and performance.





John

RX7 RAGE

iTrader: (22)

Which classic insurance carrier did you go with?

adam c

iTrader: (2)

States require that you buy liability insurance. They don't care where you buy it. The type of insurance you have wont effect how the state classifies your vehicle.

I don't know why insurance is listed in the thread title either!

RENESISFD

iTrader: (13)

^ I know that, thats why I said the car is registered as a classic.

prew

iTrader: (9)

In New Jersey, the car can only be registered as specialty vehicle if you obtain collectors insurance first. Could be the same way in AZ.


Gene - A bunch of us use American Collectors Insurance, they're significantly cheaper than Haggerty and Grundy.

jmadams74

So would someone, like the OP, clarify this insurance/registration/smog requirement connection please?

adam c

iTrader: (2)

I don't see anything about the car being registered as a classic. In Arizona, cars have to be 25 years old for antique status. I don't see any "classic" status on the AZ dmv website.

http://www.dmv.com/az/arizona/custom...e-registration

RENESISFD

iTrader: (13)

^ Well I was looking at the title of the thread saying that the car was just registered, so I was assuming he/she meant with the DMV. Guess we will have to wait for the OP to clear things up.

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

THANK YOU! I've been contimplating this for a long time.

I just got a quote.... EXACTLY what I have been looking for. A company that has a set payout...

$25,000 total loss payout. Full coverage with $500 deductible on collision and comprehensive.

$67 a month.......

RCCAZ 1

iTrader: (10)

For AZ, you're looking at the wrong thing. The link you show is for Classic Antique, which IS 25 years. Arizona also has a collector car program where the vehicle only needs to be 15 years or older, be of limited production and special or unique interest, and carry a Classic Insurance policy. These vehicles CAN NOT be your primary (i.e., daily driver) and your daily can not be OLDER THAN the collector vehicle enrolled in the program.

Registration at the AZ DMV consists of a VIN integrity check (fire wall, windshield and door jam), mileage versus title, and they look for the sticker in the door jam that states the vehicle meets US DOT requirements. That's it!

I have approximatly the same coverage with Grundy for $460 per year. Must be because I'm an old(er) fart

RCCAZ 1

iTrader: (10)

IMO, you are asking for trouble if you go totally open exhaust path with a stock ECU. The most I would go without a Power FC would be DP and high flow catback. I agree, if you can keep your boost levels down to 10 psi, you "might" be safe, but all it takes is some boost creep or spiking on a cool morning and "knock" happens, so if you want to mod the car (and it sounds like you do), do yourself a favor and buy the Power FC sooner, rather than later. The $900 investment could save you having to spend $5K on on motor replacement sooner than you'd like.

Regarding the elimination of your high flow cat for a resonated MP, bear in mind that once you elimate your highflow cat for a midpipe, the car (and your clothes) will stink considerably more. I've accepted it with my ride, but it is something to consider. Midrange power should improve with a resonated MP vs high flow cat, but so will the likelihood of boost creep. Proceed with caution, but HAVE FUN!

prew

iTrader: (9)

No prob. Check the thread in the NE section for the paperwork required to register the car.

genzer

iTrader: (2)

How in the world did you register it under a classic and still maintain daily? I thought you were only allowed to register as classic if 50+ years old and can ONLY drive it to parades or car shows..

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Kind of an old thread, but I run a DP, Bonez HF cat and Greddy SP catback. Pretty happy with it. Based on a friend who tracks regularly and runs a midpipe, I'd keep a cat. As the others have said, his was pretty loud and smelly.
Seems like from what I've heard and read, experiences removing just the airpump on the stock ECU vary. Some report driving issues, while others couldn't tell the difference. If you intend to remove any other emissions stuff I think the easiest is to just go to a standalone to avoid CELs. That's what I did.

As for insurance...FWIW, I'm with Hagerty. Agreed value policy, $100 deductible, $0 deductible on comp. About 1/3 less annually than my old standard policy...which was NOT agreed value and $500 deductible on everything. I have two cars with them now. Only had one claim...a rock through the windshield. Two phone calls and I had a check in hand in about 3 days.