Ok so im driving out of the shop where I had my air pump checked out, and the car will not go above 25-30 mph, it will not accelerate, the power cuts off at about 3500-4000 rpm,and it bucks around like crazy. I never had this problem before so I brought the car back to the shop, but does anyone know why it might be doing this? there is no check engine light on.

 

Sounds like your car is in limp mode.

Reset your ecu before anything else.

 

really?? the ecu was pulled out of the car and checked for damaged, and then reinstalled how do I reset the ecu to get it out of limp mode?? I wanna call the mechanic and tell them

 

take off the ground wire, press and hold the brake peddle for about 10-20 seconds. reinstall the ground wire.

 

dont mean to ask a stupid question, but you mean the ground wire for the battery?

 

That is correct...


Later

 

How was the ecu checked for damages when pulled from the car?

To reset ecu.

Disconnect negative cable from battery.

Get in car and hold brake pedal down for 20 seconds (i do 30 to be sure).

Reconnect negative cable to battery.

Start car and idle for a tad bit.

 

alright ill tell them tommorow, thanks

 

well what happened was the air pump (for smog) is not working and all the wiring and fuses checked good, the last possiblity is the ecu, only because I accidently grounded the wires for the air pump while attempting to fix it, and it caused several sparks. The pump will work with its own power and ground, but when hooked up in the vehicle it does NOT work at all.

 

your omp(oil metiring pump) may be burnt. that will throw your car into limp mode. check it out and see if it may have deformed in the conecting side. its a common problem. let me know

 

Who worked on your car? They should be the ones responsible to fix it!!!! Keep us posted.

 

That's why you should disconnect the battery *before* playing with the car wiring.

Dave

 

Its possible the oil metering pump sensor may have a problem, but the reason why I dout it, is because before I brought my car into the shop to check out the air pump, the car drove and rode very smooth, accelerated no problem at all.The same day I drove out of the shop it had the problem for the first time. I actually sparked my wires last year some time and the only damage it caused was for the air pump to stop working altogether, but everythig else was fine

 

Hey ernesto,

Check your map sensor. It is in the back right corner area of your engine bay to the left of the power steering. It is a black square box mounted to the fire wall. Make sure that the vacuum line is running to this box.

 

Ok I will check that, didnt think about that one, I also checked my boost sensor and it has the hose still attached Im thinking either a vaccum hose was left disconnected and left loose, or maby the car is limp mode since they unplugged the ecu, but the question is.. why would I be in limp mode, when there was no problem before? The car is still in the shop, I will tell them to check all these things tommorow morning

 

the car was in the shop. ok the mechanic did the air pump. turned on the car. walked away. car warmed up. no air was blowin around and some heat builds up. deforming the omp sensor connector. mechanic gets in the car after turning in his paper work the car is fine he puts the car up for you to pick up. you get the car, an the ecu sees the problem(limp mode) just check it will ya

 

I disconnected the battery and sure enough everything was working fine, there was no problem. HOWEVER!!!! as I was driving home, and when I floored it, I heard a loud whooshing sound from the turbos, but no power at all. as I shifted into second gear I hear a POP, sound, but idk if it was an engine knock or a backfire!!! anybody know?? anyway I got home now and found a damn vaccum hose for the turbo that was LOOSE!! so I reconnected it and drove it again, and no problem what so ever FULL POWER once again. MY MAIN CONCERN is the "POP" sound, was it engine knock or backfire?? any ideas please id appreciate it!!

 

car drive good , and everything is fine, now turns out they left a vaccum hose loose for the turbos and thats why the ecu went into limp mode, I reset the ecu, and reconnected the loose hose, and now its fine, seems like the only way it gets done right is if I do it myself, but now my odometer works out of nowhere so yippe

 

my idea would be to find a different mechanic, as for your noise maybe it was a backfire because you had a vaccum leak? running rich do to vaccum line being off?

 

what repairs did you take it in for?

 

His orignal problem is in this thread:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=771274

 

I originally brought it in to have the air pump fixed so I can pass smog. Unfortunatley they could not find out why it wasnt working. They DID however repair my bad wiring for the air pump, and they checked the 15 amp fuse, and air pump relay,and all wiring..... no problems what so ever. They told me the air pump part itself DOES in fact work, but only when its connected directly to the battery. The FINAL possibility would be a faulty ECU. I just ordered a used ECU for a reasonable price, and if that doesnt fix the air pump... I really dont why else it wouldnt be working...

 

I hope you didnt have to pay for any work they "couldnt" do.

Because not only did they NOT fix the problem but it looks like they added some as well.

 

Im not gonna complain too much, cause they did fix the wiring, and they also fixed my broken odometer (somehow?) Im so happy about odometer working, I almost forgot about the air pump problem, although I still want the pump fixed cause im tired of "ridin dirty"