just bought it (well the bank did...)
#1
don't race, don't need to
Thread Starter
just bought it (well the bank did...)
Silver FD touring. 60-and a little K mi. One owner (who was fifty when he bought it. This thing was actually made by the Japanese to laugh at our midlife crises!) Black interior NOT scuffed. Rides nice and hard, handles REALLY tight. Bose sounds WEAK! (but I had two twelves 800 watts in the FC that carbon locked. I'll post photos to prove before I sell/ritually burn her!) Only thing missing bees the fog lights (remember those? BEFORE big *** LOUD useless exhaust tips and backwards hat bills? Ohhhh here come the flames!!). Passed emissions with FLYING colors. Best the guy'd seen!
Yeah I'm a noob, so be a little paitent.
Things I think ( i.e. IMO stuff):
Stock rules. Who needs MORE effing power? Jeez... (hee hee)
reliability literally scares. see below...
I'm in love
OK, the bad news. Leaks oil. Appears to pee it in a little stream from turbo side when I backed up today, but the line goes away before I even am all the way backed up. Second (rear?) turbo oil line? Service records show the turbos were replaced by Mazda @ 47K. I know.. Mazda? Go to (insert mech of choice, but apparantly not Hayes if I ever want to see her again!) Does a fix exist? I searched FOREVER, never saw an actual "here, do this:..." Oil level remaining pretty constant, near full. Just look at oil every morning, drive it, and pray?
Coolant disappearing. I've been selling the sickly sweet stuff last two days. Started it this noontime and the low coolant light and buzzer scared the living stinky stuff outta me. Shut it the hell off, opened the cap (NOT the AST one!. Pettit shipping one to me yesterday... along with boost gauge.) and the throat was dry and steaming. I QUICKLY (!!!) grabbed some DI water and poured maybe 4-5 oz before the level came up to the top. Is that wire coming off the filler neck the low sensor? Anyway, no more light, no more warning bell, but JESUS!!! (don't flame me there either about Him. You believe what you believe. DON'T shove it down my eyes! oopps.. sorry So I change all fluids this weekend and look for sources of problems.
Questions: Should there be a slightly metallic sound at startup? Seems like it comes from turbo area (but I'm inside, so WTF do I know?).
Is that slight gear noise while lighltly accelerating in 1st Xmission? Shift area? More/new fluid pronto, Tonto.
I would have thought the slight oil burning smell ok, but now I tremble (and place fire extinguisher in as well!).
Does security system really prevent thefts?
Will AST, hose kit, turbo gauge, cleaning oil pressure gauge (yeah, mine is spastic as well. Owner said he replaced it. He also said he learned more about his car in the twenty minutes he and I talked than he ever did before, and I know what little I do from YALL!) be enough to keep stock and reasonably reliable (provided there is a fix for the leaking turbos (external leak only, exhaust smells completely neutral)) (are you sick of all the parenths yet?)
Is opening the hood after driving to cool it off ok? I hear fairly loud cracking on cool down from exhaust (well DUHHH!!). Typical?
I warm for 5 min in the morning, but Pettit says 1 min and low stress driving for ten min or so. What u think?
If I've stayed off the throttle while driving, and the temp is low and no fan, do I still run it 1-3 min before shut off? Or is it cool? I know if I let it idle three min or so, the fan comes on. Isn't this kinda defeating the purpose?
Note that the stock temp gauge NEVER climbs over the
halfway mark, and the fan comes on when it's supposed to (at least it does at idle).
OK, I'm done for now. If you know of the exact thread to answer a Q, please list it, OR tell me the EXACT words to place in the search forum box that will get me within two pages of the thread I want (boy, he don't want much, do he?) (GAAHHH... more parenths!!) I've read enough to be not TOTALLY freaked about the oil, and pretty worried about the coolant. (Which radiator is a bolt in, again? Fluidyne?), and I'm scared of theft. Club worthless, but in there to deter crackheads. Area kinda sucks where I live (****, I almost gave my location for the NW Forum. Man, my brain is all fucked up today!!)
Let the flames begin!!!
Yeah I'm a noob, so be a little paitent.
Things I think ( i.e. IMO stuff):
Stock rules. Who needs MORE effing power? Jeez... (hee hee)
reliability literally scares. see below...
I'm in love
OK, the bad news. Leaks oil. Appears to pee it in a little stream from turbo side when I backed up today, but the line goes away before I even am all the way backed up. Second (rear?) turbo oil line? Service records show the turbos were replaced by Mazda @ 47K. I know.. Mazda? Go to (insert mech of choice, but apparantly not Hayes if I ever want to see her again!) Does a fix exist? I searched FOREVER, never saw an actual "here, do this:..." Oil level remaining pretty constant, near full. Just look at oil every morning, drive it, and pray?
Coolant disappearing. I've been selling the sickly sweet stuff last two days. Started it this noontime and the low coolant light and buzzer scared the living stinky stuff outta me. Shut it the hell off, opened the cap (NOT the AST one!. Pettit shipping one to me yesterday... along with boost gauge.) and the throat was dry and steaming. I QUICKLY (!!!) grabbed some DI water and poured maybe 4-5 oz before the level came up to the top. Is that wire coming off the filler neck the low sensor? Anyway, no more light, no more warning bell, but JESUS!!! (don't flame me there either about Him. You believe what you believe. DON'T shove it down my eyes! oopps.. sorry So I change all fluids this weekend and look for sources of problems.
Questions: Should there be a slightly metallic sound at startup? Seems like it comes from turbo area (but I'm inside, so WTF do I know?).
Is that slight gear noise while lighltly accelerating in 1st Xmission? Shift area? More/new fluid pronto, Tonto.
I would have thought the slight oil burning smell ok, but now I tremble (and place fire extinguisher in as well!).
Does security system really prevent thefts?
Will AST, hose kit, turbo gauge, cleaning oil pressure gauge (yeah, mine is spastic as well. Owner said he replaced it. He also said he learned more about his car in the twenty minutes he and I talked than he ever did before, and I know what little I do from YALL!) be enough to keep stock and reasonably reliable (provided there is a fix for the leaking turbos (external leak only, exhaust smells completely neutral)) (are you sick of all the parenths yet?)
Is opening the hood after driving to cool it off ok? I hear fairly loud cracking on cool down from exhaust (well DUHHH!!). Typical?
I warm for 5 min in the morning, but Pettit says 1 min and low stress driving for ten min or so. What u think?
If I've stayed off the throttle while driving, and the temp is low and no fan, do I still run it 1-3 min before shut off? Or is it cool? I know if I let it idle three min or so, the fan comes on. Isn't this kinda defeating the purpose?
Note that the stock temp gauge NEVER climbs over the
halfway mark, and the fan comes on when it's supposed to (at least it does at idle).
OK, I'm done for now. If you know of the exact thread to answer a Q, please list it, OR tell me the EXACT words to place in the search forum box that will get me within two pages of the thread I want (boy, he don't want much, do he?) (GAAHHH... more parenths!!) I've read enough to be not TOTALLY freaked about the oil, and pretty worried about the coolant. (Which radiator is a bolt in, again? Fluidyne?), and I'm scared of theft. Club worthless, but in there to deter crackheads. Area kinda sucks where I live (****, I almost gave my location for the NW Forum. Man, my brain is all fucked up today!!)
Let the flames begin!!!
#4
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No flames here. In fact, thanks for your post. It was quite entertaining. It's always nice to find someone with more problems that I have
I'll attempt a couple answers-
As for the oil leak, it's impossible to say where it's coming from, unless you, or someone else see it. I just bought an R1, and the original owner said she had it checked and found that the rear turbo was leaking oil. Seemed odd to me, so I had another dealer look at it, since I was there for a recall anyway. They said it was coming from a motor mount bolt. For now, I'm sticking with the cheaper answer, and naming my car Puddles
Was your old AST leaking? Mine was, and I just installed a Pettit. For your sake, we'll hope that's where the coolant is going.
Can't say much about all your noises. I'd recommend playing the stereo louder, or maybe an open exhaust.
The burning oil smell is almost certainly from your oil leak. It's probably not as bad as it smells, but make sure you keep the insurance paid up.
Most people recommend a DP (downpipe) pretty highly, so you might want to add that to the list. You should still be able to pass emissions from what I've read.
Open hood after driving=good
As for warmup and cool down, I figure that by the time I crawl out of my over-policed subdivision, the car is warm enough, and it's cool by the time I get to my house. I always try to let it idle 30 seconds anyway.
Temp gauge is rigged. If you search for something like "non linear temp" you'll find out. Mazda made it sta in one spot for the whole operating range, so when it does start up, you're screwed. There's a procedure to make the stock gauge linear, but most folks prefer an aftermarket gauge with numbers.
If you think you have problems now, wait till you hook up your boost gauge and find that you have a boost problem. Then you'll go psycho like me and rip out everything in sight to get to those petrified hoses. All I can say is IT BETTER WORK when I get done.
Seriously, good luck.
I'll attempt a couple answers-
As for the oil leak, it's impossible to say where it's coming from, unless you, or someone else see it. I just bought an R1, and the original owner said she had it checked and found that the rear turbo was leaking oil. Seemed odd to me, so I had another dealer look at it, since I was there for a recall anyway. They said it was coming from a motor mount bolt. For now, I'm sticking with the cheaper answer, and naming my car Puddles
Was your old AST leaking? Mine was, and I just installed a Pettit. For your sake, we'll hope that's where the coolant is going.
Can't say much about all your noises. I'd recommend playing the stereo louder, or maybe an open exhaust.
The burning oil smell is almost certainly from your oil leak. It's probably not as bad as it smells, but make sure you keep the insurance paid up.
Most people recommend a DP (downpipe) pretty highly, so you might want to add that to the list. You should still be able to pass emissions from what I've read.
Open hood after driving=good
As for warmup and cool down, I figure that by the time I crawl out of my over-policed subdivision, the car is warm enough, and it's cool by the time I get to my house. I always try to let it idle 30 seconds anyway.
Temp gauge is rigged. If you search for something like "non linear temp" you'll find out. Mazda made it sta in one spot for the whole operating range, so when it does start up, you're screwed. There's a procedure to make the stock gauge linear, but most folks prefer an aftermarket gauge with numbers.
If you think you have problems now, wait till you hook up your boost gauge and find that you have a boost problem. Then you'll go psycho like me and rip out everything in sight to get to those petrified hoses. All I can say is IT BETTER WORK when I get done.
Seriously, good luck.
#5
don't race, don't need to
Thread Starter
Thank you, sir (I hope!) (and racer chicks be sexy, I think too! see garland) for your kind words. I actually ran across your original thread in my travels (and travails...) and that is what led me to not be soooo concerned about the oil. I'll stay out of the turbos (just loaf the engine) as much as possible until the gauge shows up. GOTTA get a DD, but I be broke (on a 50K salary too! Try SCUBA diving for money pit action!!!) Do I hafta put in a DP? Awww mom. But Jimmy doesn't run one!! Why do eyyyyyeeee I hafta? (note the freckled nose and dried jam on the face. And you just KNOW those socks have holes in 'em!)
Anyway... yeah, if the coolant loss be not from external componentry, I'm killing me. Or at least a few brain cells!! Pray the AST gets here soon, and Mazda has the coolant hoses (I think Dick in parts (University Mazda)said he keeps a constant supply... He DA MAN BTW) (But just a parts DA MAN, so how far does THAT get him?) and I don't **** things up in general. Would serve me right to have it BLOW the HELL UP three days after the bank bought it for me. Now why can't my GF do that...?
Anyway... yeah, if the coolant loss be not from external componentry, I'm killing me. Or at least a few brain cells!! Pray the AST gets here soon, and Mazda has the coolant hoses (I think Dick in parts (University Mazda)said he keeps a constant supply... He DA MAN BTW) (But just a parts DA MAN, so how far does THAT get him?) and I don't **** things up in general. Would serve me right to have it BLOW the HELL UP three days after the bank bought it for me. Now why can't my GF do that...?
#7
don't race, don't need to
Thread Starter
Doen't that curve right between the reafrfender and the hatch just KILL you?? And WTF were they thinking, making a roofline soooooo coooolll!!?? Makes the Vipers look... well.. like Vipers! And thier's was first, anyway. And sequential turbos? On a production car? Whooo boy. Turned this MOPAR boy right around. Still like my Challanger under wraps (eternal rebuild project!) a bunch, though.
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#9
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Navarre, FL
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Congrats. I recall reading about a trailer mod, where you can tow a trailer with a spare engine, turbo, etc. Maybe you should look into that
I swore I wasn't going to spend any money or time on mine until I got the plane out to the hanger, but damn if I don't have intake off now to get to those @&#%^ hoses. I absolutely won't do a downpipe either... until maybe next week
Good luck with your trip home.
I swore I wasn't going to spend any money or time on mine until I got the plane out to the hanger, but damn if I don't have intake off now to get to those @&#%^ hoses. I absolutely won't do a downpipe either... until maybe next week
Good luck with your trip home.
Last edited by 13brv3; 10-09-02 at 09:51 PM.
#10
don't race, don't need to
Thread Starter
I liked the thread that started out like this, so.....
Well guys... ****!!
OK, here's the deal. I had that little deal with the coolant you see above. So I go to Schucks in Bothell, WA. There's this really cool guy that works there named Harley. He drives an FC, and loves the cars. He saw my FC before it tossed something inside (carbon lock or apex seal, the usual boring deal) and was interested in buying it.. anyways, I told him that the FC died, and I was looking into the FD. He was waayy interested, but probably thought I was the typical ****** type who said he wanted one but...
So I went to aforementioned store tonight on the way home and picked up some GTX for the NW version of Puddles, some wiper blades (the old ones were actually cracked!) and the Jug 'o Coolant (why don't they make smaller, oil bottle size?). When he asked what was up, I told him my sad little tale. First he was jazzed that I has the FD, then said why don't we take a look. I made the usual noises about AST this and Fluidyne that, he nodded and looked at me like, "yeah, dude, I know all that. But do YOU know all that? Seems maybe not..." Anyway, that's when I noticed a little steam coming from under the hood. **** time, and how!!
So I'm thinking things went from bad to kill myself, AST went, radiator popped, and I just read somewhere that the gauge is non-liear (WHY WHY WHY!!!!!!!!) and so I'm not reeeeaaalll happy. Then Harley says, "hey, what's up with that?" We both peer over the stupifyingly low hood and low and behold, the steam is coming from the air release pipe fitting next to the filler cap. Juuuussst steamin' away, like it didn't have a care. Dirty too, real greasy. Hmmmmm....
So we decide we need to pull that sucker and check him out. I hang around the store (cold out there, gonna have to stop diving soon unless I get a dry suit (cause I really AM a *****, I know! At least I accept it..). But then I have to get the GF one, and I just bought a ... well, you know..) making inane comments and trying to not be TOTALLY lame (but being SOOOOO futching LAME!!!) until the thing cools enough to take off the cap and attack that little fitting. Some hump comes in was making lots of incoherant noise about some mustang parts H sold that didn't work and need warrantee replacement, and H is saying nice reasonable things like, "well, you don't have the stock flywheel, do you, or the correct rear end anymore, right?" and more bluster pours forth 'bout how this don't matter, do it? How can anyone work in one of those places? I mean, guys like ME come in. GAHH!!
Getting to the effing point, we cleaned the fitting, placed some thread sealant, screwed it in. OK great. Buuut..
I chose to clean the 13 psi radiator cap (of NO visable manufacturer!) The bottom seal was COVERED in grease and oil, like it had sat at the bottom of some service guys tool chest for a year, then was slapped on 'cause he didn't want to bother getting the right one. Then I started to clean the upper seal, which was all shiney and kinda curved. I **** you not, it broke RIGHT IN MY HANDS!!!
Yes, why didn't I just buy a cap right there in the first place? Wanted to go to mother Mazda to get the "correct" one, and I didn't think this one was soooo gawdawful! Anyway, H had one stant (ugh!, buuut...) that was listed to fit, but is rated at 16 lbs. Just did a little homework, turns out this is the correct one, right? 'Course, who the hell KNOWS what the real cracking pressure is on the thing, so now of course my AST is going to ******* EXPLODE on the way to work tomorrow, so I STILL end up being LAME. Bummer.
Anywho, drove it home and no leak, no sweeeeeet smell (which I LOVE, but HATE at the same time. Quite the dilemma. Say it: die-lem-ma), no steam, and the car runs better. Idles smoother, and has the stumble at 3K that wasn't there before. So now I'm all paranoid that the system got screwed up during all this, so we'll see. Natch', gotta ask if this has happened to others, running the cooling system at a lower pressure and/or pinhole leak that didn't cause severe overheating?
I hate the fact that it's only Wed night and the SOOONEST I can get off (of work that is. Doing the other right now. Called multitasking...) and woe is poor me. I know, suck it up. But maaaaaayyyybe the coolant deal is not terribly screwed. And I now just went and jynxed it, huh?
OK, enough of my noob ramblings. Bring on the ****!! (Language was created for the sole purpose of gossiping. The internet was created for the sole purpose of "easing tensions" via "manual over-ride". Prove otherwise!)
Well guys... ****!!
OK, here's the deal. I had that little deal with the coolant you see above. So I go to Schucks in Bothell, WA. There's this really cool guy that works there named Harley. He drives an FC, and loves the cars. He saw my FC before it tossed something inside (carbon lock or apex seal, the usual boring deal) and was interested in buying it.. anyways, I told him that the FC died, and I was looking into the FD. He was waayy interested, but probably thought I was the typical ****** type who said he wanted one but...
So I went to aforementioned store tonight on the way home and picked up some GTX for the NW version of Puddles, some wiper blades (the old ones were actually cracked!) and the Jug 'o Coolant (why don't they make smaller, oil bottle size?). When he asked what was up, I told him my sad little tale. First he was jazzed that I has the FD, then said why don't we take a look. I made the usual noises about AST this and Fluidyne that, he nodded and looked at me like, "yeah, dude, I know all that. But do YOU know all that? Seems maybe not..." Anyway, that's when I noticed a little steam coming from under the hood. **** time, and how!!
So I'm thinking things went from bad to kill myself, AST went, radiator popped, and I just read somewhere that the gauge is non-liear (WHY WHY WHY!!!!!!!!) and so I'm not reeeeaaalll happy. Then Harley says, "hey, what's up with that?" We both peer over the stupifyingly low hood and low and behold, the steam is coming from the air release pipe fitting next to the filler cap. Juuuussst steamin' away, like it didn't have a care. Dirty too, real greasy. Hmmmmm....
So we decide we need to pull that sucker and check him out. I hang around the store (cold out there, gonna have to stop diving soon unless I get a dry suit (cause I really AM a *****, I know! At least I accept it..). But then I have to get the GF one, and I just bought a ... well, you know..) making inane comments and trying to not be TOTALLY lame (but being SOOOOO futching LAME!!!) until the thing cools enough to take off the cap and attack that little fitting. Some hump comes in was making lots of incoherant noise about some mustang parts H sold that didn't work and need warrantee replacement, and H is saying nice reasonable things like, "well, you don't have the stock flywheel, do you, or the correct rear end anymore, right?" and more bluster pours forth 'bout how this don't matter, do it? How can anyone work in one of those places? I mean, guys like ME come in. GAHH!!
Getting to the effing point, we cleaned the fitting, placed some thread sealant, screwed it in. OK great. Buuut..
I chose to clean the 13 psi radiator cap (of NO visable manufacturer!) The bottom seal was COVERED in grease and oil, like it had sat at the bottom of some service guys tool chest for a year, then was slapped on 'cause he didn't want to bother getting the right one. Then I started to clean the upper seal, which was all shiney and kinda curved. I **** you not, it broke RIGHT IN MY HANDS!!!
Yes, why didn't I just buy a cap right there in the first place? Wanted to go to mother Mazda to get the "correct" one, and I didn't think this one was soooo gawdawful! Anyway, H had one stant (ugh!, buuut...) that was listed to fit, but is rated at 16 lbs. Just did a little homework, turns out this is the correct one, right? 'Course, who the hell KNOWS what the real cracking pressure is on the thing, so now of course my AST is going to ******* EXPLODE on the way to work tomorrow, so I STILL end up being LAME. Bummer.
Anywho, drove it home and no leak, no sweeeeeet smell (which I LOVE, but HATE at the same time. Quite the dilemma. Say it: die-lem-ma), no steam, and the car runs better. Idles smoother, and has the stumble at 3K that wasn't there before. So now I'm all paranoid that the system got screwed up during all this, so we'll see. Natch', gotta ask if this has happened to others, running the cooling system at a lower pressure and/or pinhole leak that didn't cause severe overheating?
I hate the fact that it's only Wed night and the SOOONEST I can get off (of work that is. Doing the other right now. Called multitasking...) and woe is poor me. I know, suck it up. But maaaaaayyyybe the coolant deal is not terribly screwed. And I now just went and jynxed it, huh?
OK, enough of my noob ramblings. Bring on the ****!! (Language was created for the sole purpose of gossiping. The internet was created for the sole purpose of "easing tensions" via "manual over-ride". Prove otherwise!)
#12
development
Jeeze 'ole man, you write a lot, you kept me entertained for a while, but that last post was a titty bit too long...I'll come back and read in later. Glad you like your car, stock rules until you drive or ride in one that's not...until then fix all your problems, in you car and in your head!
#15
don't race, don't need to
Thread Starter
Yeah, sorry 'bout that. Friends say I have a tendency towards verbosity. Just a little uptight 'bout the car. Ahhhh... Valium, anyone?
Off to work I go...
Off to work I go...
#17
don't race, don't need to
Thread Starter
Hah! Now it pees from the front right corner. Riiiiggghhhht under the overflow tank. Only during cooldown. And comensurate liquid loss from filler neck. NOOBNOOBNOOBNOOBNOOBNOOBNOOBNOOBNOOB!
Thanks for caring, and putting up with Loooong venting sessions!!
Thanks for caring, and putting up with Loooong venting sessions!!
#19
don't race, don't need to
Thread Starter
Yeah, was mostly ranting. I'm changing out hoses today, and AST if it showed up in time. The leak in the top is most likely what caused the overflow tank to overfill, after reading sooo many threads from folks with the same prob. Or, of course, new engine time. But no white smoke, starts fine, the usual self denial of ticking time bomb. I WILL burp the system as per reccomendations, though it will probably take a week to get all of it out!
Really, I'm just pretty lame. Couldn't even tell the coolant on the ground from clean oil. Both are slippery, and I pick up old dirt from the asphalt when I wipe. And it didn't smell one way or the other.
Not going to write another book on the thing!! If you guys are interested, I'll post my progress. I'll just end up repeating lots of thread discussions that are WAY better than mine, sooo.... let me know
Really, I'm just pretty lame. Couldn't even tell the coolant on the ground from clean oil. Both are slippery, and I pick up old dirt from the asphalt when I wipe. And it didn't smell one way or the other.
Not going to write another book on the thing!! If you guys are interested, I'll post my progress. I'll just end up repeating lots of thread discussions that are WAY better than mine, sooo.... let me know
#23
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helloo.
I am almost sure that that metallic sound at start up is your air pump starting to seize up mine used to make a clicking almost grinding metallic sound at start up a month or so later my air pump froze....try to find a used one keep it around just incase because if it seizes and you still have stock cat it will clogg...and it will be the start of many other problems that will make your 7 experience a pain in the ***.......I could be wrong it can always be sumthin else though?
#24
don't race, don't need to
Thread Starter
Yeah, there has been a strange little mouse like squeek when driving after moooostly warming up (I let it idle for 5 mins or so after startup, then drive nicely till temp gauge (with linear mod) shows the thermostat to have opened) so I figure the air pump is going. When your's seized, did the magnetic clutch still try and engage, causing smoke from belts and what not, or just stop trying to engage?
BTW, downpipe installed this last weekend, fuel filter re-located, hoses replaced and system holding water fine, fluids changed, and new radiator on it's way. Found the DP install to be very easy, used a Pettit.
BTW, downpipe installed this last weekend, fuel filter re-located, hoses replaced and system holding water fine, fluids changed, and new radiator on it's way. Found the DP install to be very easy, used a Pettit.
#25
development
Originally posted by spurvo
BTW, downpipe installed this last weekend, fuel filter re-located, hoses replaced and system holding water fine, fluids changed, and new radiator on it's way. Found the DP install to be very easy, used a Pettit.
BTW, downpipe installed this last weekend, fuel filter re-located, hoses replaced and system holding water fine, fluids changed, and new radiator on it's way. Found the DP install to be very easy, used a Pettit.