Japanese AST Delete MOD?
11-21-11, 11:19 PM
#26
Rats nest has all the solenoids and vacuum hoses attached. All of this is required to run the stock twin sequential.
The series 7/8 rats nest, coil bracket,soleniod system is totally different and can not be ran with an 8 bit harness and ecu..
You will need all the parts listed and most likely other stuff I have over looked..
There are simply a bunch of key componets that are different that will need to be changed in order to run that engine in a USDM chassis..
Can it be done= yes
will it be cheap= no
you would be better off with a series 6 jspec engine...sure the series 7/8 is a better engine with upgrades but you need the correct supporting series 6 stuff to make it run
The series 7/8 rats nest, coil bracket,soleniod system is totally different and can not be ran with an 8 bit harness and ecu..
You will need all the parts listed and most likely other stuff I have over looked..
There are simply a bunch of key componets that are different that will need to be changed in order to run that engine in a USDM chassis..
Can it be done= yes
will it be cheap= no
you would be better off with a series 6 jspec engine...sure the series 7/8 is a better engine with upgrades but you need the correct supporting series 6 stuff to make it run
Last edited by Japan2LA; 11-21-11 at 11:21 PM.
11-21-11, 11:55 PM
#27
talking head
Good luck on the Knightsports adapter.. that may be hard to get.. I looked thru my catalog and did not see it there.. You will have to contact them and see if they still sell/make it..
11-22-11, 02:38 PM
#29
In the long run it may not be worth it like you said hte 16bit power FC will not have the same tunes , as the 8bit that is commonly used here . prob different in other aspects so even tuning the whole thing will be foreign territory .
but hell if the extension is cheap ( i doubt it ) and I canfind a power FC for my year. engine .. hell why not!
could you tell by that code what year its from? if its 99-02 , or 96-98 ?
11-22-11, 08:01 PM
#30
Rats nest has all the solenoids and vacuum hoses attached. All of this is required to run the stock twin sequential.
The series 7/8 rats nest, coil bracket,soleniod system is totally different and can not be ran with an 8 bit harness and ecu..
You will need all the parts listed and most likely other stuff I have over looked..
There are simply a bunch of key componets that are different that will need to be changed in order to run that engine in a USDM chassis..
Can it be done= yes
will it be cheap= no
you would be better off with a series 6 jspec engine...sure the series 7/8 is a better engine with upgrades but you need the correct supporting series 6 stuff to make it run
The series 7/8 rats nest, coil bracket,soleniod system is totally different and can not be ran with an 8 bit harness and ecu..
You will need all the parts listed and most likely other stuff I have over looked..
There are simply a bunch of key componets that are different that will need to be changed in order to run that engine in a USDM chassis..
Can it be done= yes
will it be cheap= no
you would be better off with a series 6 jspec engine...sure the series 7/8 is a better engine with upgrades but you need the correct supporting series 6 stuff to make it run
OK!! so dont know how to take this but well , the series 7 engine still uses the same rats nest as the series 6 , but the 8 is when they upgraded the rats nest to the one with the improved rats nest . how can I tell if my engine is series 7 or 8 ?
and if the rats nest is the same is it just hte map sensor , and harness that I need to buy?
11-22-11, 08:04 PM
#31
OK!! so dont know how to take this but well , the series 7 engine still uses the same rats nest as the series 6 , but the 8 is when they upgraded the rats nest to the one with the improved rats nest . how can I tell if my engine is series 7 or 8 ?
and if the rats nest is the same is it just hte map sensor , and harness that I need to buy?
and if the rats nest is the same is it just hte map sensor , and harness that I need to buy?
11-22-11, 08:08 PM
#32
Post more pics of the engine.. If I see pics I can tell you if its 7 or 8
Either way if will have the simplified vacuum rack
And yes, get the adapter( if there really is one) and you can run it lik it is..
The downfall to this^
When you need series 7/8 parts where are you going to find them?
Say the engine harness goes bad on you later down the road?? You will have to have a 16bit harness which will be hard to get...
Either way if will have the simplified vacuum rack
And yes, get the adapter( if there really is one) and you can run it lik it is..
The downfall to this^
When you need series 7/8 parts where are you going to find them?
Say the engine harness goes bad on you later down the road?? You will have to have a 16bit harness which will be hard to get...
11-22-11, 08:20 PM
#33
Post more pics of the engine.. If I see pics I can tell you if its 7 or 8
Either way if will have the simplified vacuum rack
And yes, get the adapter( if there really is one) and you can run it lik it is..
The downfall to this^
When you need series 7/8 parts where are you going to find them?
Say the engine harness goes bad on you later down the road?? You will have to have a 16bit harness which will be hard to get...
Either way if will have the simplified vacuum rack
And yes, get the adapter( if there really is one) and you can run it lik it is..
The downfall to this^
When you need series 7/8 parts where are you going to find them?
Say the engine harness goes bad on you later down the road?? You will have to have a 16bit harness which will be hard to get...
Last edited by Tem120; 11-22-11 at 08:23 PM.
11-22-11, 09:21 PM
#41
I put oil into the engine and turned it a bit when I got it .
11-22-11, 10:03 PM
#43
the invoice says its a 92-95 13b twin turbo , I recieved a 96-98 engine instead .
the leading plugs the ones with the 7 , will arrive on friday...
Now I didn't really give a compression test tomuch priority because everyone says its not accurate . unless the engine is warmed up and freshly lubricated ..
if I can somehow test the compression when my plugs arrive I will do that asap.. the FAQ about compression testing says to remove the trailing which will arrive on Monday so no issues removing them. I can put the leading plugs on on Friday and give it a spin , BUT is there any other prep I can do to get a more accurate reading ? I'm seriously hoping atleast hte compression is good if thats good I can deal with everything else but if thats bad .. I'll pay the shipping and tell them to give me the correct year engine . as paid for ..
BTW reguardless if the engine is blown or what ever happens I have to say .. you have no idea how thankful I am to have your guy's help and advice .. and if it counts for anything I really do feel stupid and regret immensely not just buying an engine from you .. yeah this engine was 600 dollars cheaper .. but 600 dollars isnt worth the headaches and stress I've gone through because of it .. I seriously apologize.. for being an idiot ..
Last edited by Tem120; 11-22-11 at 10:06 PM.
11-23-11, 02:10 PM
#44
I did a quick search and didn't get much on this .. http://www.banzai-racing.com/vacuum_...eplacement.htm
Simplified Vacume lines from banzai Racing . Now is this a diagram of the newer rats nest ? or is this a method to simplify the series 6 rats nest? anyone know?
thanks
Simplified Vacume lines from banzai Racing . Now is this a diagram of the newer rats nest ? or is this a method to simplify the series 6 rats nest? anyone know?
thanks
11-24-11, 08:11 AM
#45
I did a quick search and didn't get much on this .. http://www.banzai-racing.com/vacuum_...eplacement.htm
Simplified Vacume lines from banzai Racing . Now is this a diagram of the newer rats nest ? or is this a method to simplify the series 6 rats nest? anyone know?
thanks
Simplified Vacume lines from banzai Racing . Now is this a diagram of the newer rats nest ? or is this a method to simplify the series 6 rats nest? anyone know?
thanks
02-17-13, 07:10 PM
#47
That engine is from a JDM Series 7, and it hasnt run in a while, judging from the amount of surface rust on the serpentine belt pulleys. And if it hasnt had any plugs in it (sat with the combustion chambers open) I wouldnt be expecting a good healthy runner.
Under the UIM, instead of a rats nest of hoses, you should see a large black plastic block with the hoses and solenoids built into it. This block is able to be disassembled (I have a few sitting here, they do come apart).
The term "simplified sequential you hear Banzai and other talking about, does not equate to this engine. They are just talking about simplifying the rats nest of a 1992-1995 US engine by removing hoses, etc.
This engine doesnt have a 'rats nest' to simplify, and if its a JDM, it wont have a pre-cat either.
My FD is 1992 JDM, and I have JDM 1992, 1995, 97 and 99 cars in various states of disrepair.
You originally asked where is the AST, well its not on that engine because it doesnt attach to the engine. It bolts in the frontal section of the engine bay, on the side of the stock intercooler, near the battery if I remember the bolting correctly. It is a black squarish tank with a silver cap, and hose off the side of the cap neck. If you dont have an AST in your car, there wont be one on any engine you buy either. You'll have to source one.
All Jap-spec FDs had an AST. JDM/USDM/Euro, there was no Japanese trickery or alternative version.
You could strip everything off this engine and lay your USDM engine loom and accessories onto it, then push the ECU loom end through the firewall, and you're good. But looking at the rusty pulleys and having had no spark plugs fitted and having likely sat in Japan for a long time, it may not run well. I'd just keep it as an expensive lesson and a source of engine accessory spares, plus a core engine to rebuild at some stage later..?
Under the UIM, instead of a rats nest of hoses, you should see a large black plastic block with the hoses and solenoids built into it. This block is able to be disassembled (I have a few sitting here, they do come apart).
The term "simplified sequential you hear Banzai and other talking about, does not equate to this engine. They are just talking about simplifying the rats nest of a 1992-1995 US engine by removing hoses, etc.
This engine doesnt have a 'rats nest' to simplify, and if its a JDM, it wont have a pre-cat either.
My FD is 1992 JDM, and I have JDM 1992, 1995, 97 and 99 cars in various states of disrepair.
You originally asked where is the AST, well its not on that engine because it doesnt attach to the engine. It bolts in the frontal section of the engine bay, on the side of the stock intercooler, near the battery if I remember the bolting correctly. It is a black squarish tank with a silver cap, and hose off the side of the cap neck. If you dont have an AST in your car, there wont be one on any engine you buy either. You'll have to source one.
All Jap-spec FDs had an AST. JDM/USDM/Euro, there was no Japanese trickery or alternative version.
You could strip everything off this engine and lay your USDM engine loom and accessories onto it, then push the ECU loom end through the firewall, and you're good. But looking at the rusty pulleys and having had no spark plugs fitted and having likely sat in Japan for a long time, it may not run well. I'd just keep it as an expensive lesson and a source of engine accessory spares, plus a core engine to rebuild at some stage later..?
02-18-13, 08:07 AM
#48
That engine is from a JDM Series 7, and it hasnt run in a while, judging from the amount of surface rust on the serpentine belt pulleys. And if it hasnt had any plugs in it (sat with the combustion chambers open) I wouldnt be expecting a good healthy runner.
Under the UIM, instead of a rats nest of hoses, you should see a large black plastic block with the hoses and solenoids built into it. This block is able to be disassembled (I have a few sitting here, they do come apart).
The term "simplified sequential you hear Banzai and other talking about, does not equate to this engine. They are just talking about simplifying the rats nest of a 1992-1995 US engine by removing hoses, etc.
This engine doesnt have a 'rats nest' to simplify, and if its a JDM, it wont have a pre-cat either.
My FD is 1992 JDM, and I have JDM 1992, 1995, 97 and 99 cars in various states of disrepair.
You originally asked where is the AST, well its not on that engine because it doesnt attach to the engine. It bolts in the frontal section of the engine bay, on the side of the stock intercooler, near the battery if I remember the bolting correctly. It is a black squarish tank with a silver cap, and hose off the side of the cap neck. If you dont have an AST in your car, there wont be one on any engine you buy either. You'll have to source one.
All Jap-spec FDs had an AST. JDM/USDM/Euro, there was no Japanese trickery or alternative version.
You could strip everything off this engine and lay your USDM engine loom and accessories onto it, then push the ECU loom end through the firewall, and you're good. But looking at the rusty pulleys and having had no spark plugs fitted and having likely sat in Japan for a long time, it may not run well. I'd just keep it as an expensive lesson and a source of engine accessory spares, plus a core engine to rebuild at some stage later..?
Under the UIM, instead of a rats nest of hoses, you should see a large black plastic block with the hoses and solenoids built into it. This block is able to be disassembled (I have a few sitting here, they do come apart).
The term "simplified sequential you hear Banzai and other talking about, does not equate to this engine. They are just talking about simplifying the rats nest of a 1992-1995 US engine by removing hoses, etc.
This engine doesnt have a 'rats nest' to simplify, and if its a JDM, it wont have a pre-cat either.
My FD is 1992 JDM, and I have JDM 1992, 1995, 97 and 99 cars in various states of disrepair.
You originally asked where is the AST, well its not on that engine because it doesnt attach to the engine. It bolts in the frontal section of the engine bay, on the side of the stock intercooler, near the battery if I remember the bolting correctly. It is a black squarish tank with a silver cap, and hose off the side of the cap neck. If you dont have an AST in your car, there wont be one on any engine you buy either. You'll have to source one.
All Jap-spec FDs had an AST. JDM/USDM/Euro, there was no Japanese trickery or alternative version.
You could strip everything off this engine and lay your USDM engine loom and accessories onto it, then push the ECU loom end through the firewall, and you're good. But looking at the rusty pulleys and having had no spark plugs fitted and having likely sat in Japan for a long time, it may not run well. I'd just keep it as an expensive lesson and a source of engine accessory spares, plus a core engine to rebuild at some stage later..?
02-18-13, 10:42 AM
#49
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Its getting confusing with all the s5 s6 etc but i will tell you this : I have installed a 99-02 map sensor to my engine which is controlled by an 8 bit pfc and it runs like a champ.In other words if an earlier map sensor works to an older engine i dont see why the opposite couldn't work.Just stay at stock boost levels...
02-18-13, 01:18 PM
#50
Its getting confusing with all the s5 s6 etc but i will tell you this : I have installed a 99-02 map sensor to my engine which is controlled by an 8 bit pfc and it runs like a champ.In other words if an earlier map sensor works to an older engine i dont see why the opposite couldn't work.Just stay at stock boost levels...
But I am curious howmuch did that mapsensor cost? why did you get the series 8 map isntead of a GM sensor ? any reason
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