Those who have read any of my prior posts already know that I'm an idiot. Just one more example of same. I need some advice on where to jack up the FD and then once up, where to place jack stands. Keep in mind that advice which would help more folks like "under the crossmember" etc... don't do me a lot of good. I could really use pictures. I know there are a lot of FD's out there on stands at the moment. Anyone want to take a shot showing me where you put them, both front and read? Likewise point to where you place a floor jack?

I know it is a stupid question and a pain to post pictures, but I'd sure appreciate it.

 

Wish I could get you some pics, but here goes with words -

I start with the front of the car. I have a relatively low-profile floor jack (a big jack too) that can reach into the front subframe. It's a steel frame that forms a square around the oil pan. I put the jack under the frontmost part of the square, then start jacking up. Then, at the back 2 corners of the square, you can see the nuts that hold the motor mounts into the subframe. Around that area is where I put the two jack stands.

At the back, I put the jack under the differential - it's silver and has the driveshafts coming out the side, it's easy to spot. Jack it up, then I put the jackstands on the subframe. The spots I use are part of the black subframe, the rear most suspension arm bolts to it there, and that section is kind of square in shape. The jack fits those 2 square points beautifully.

Dale

 

Thanks Dale. Great description. I'll go out and see what I can find. Part of the problem I've had is that until the car is jacked up, I can't see under it to find things.

 

Another trick if your car is pretty low and you have problems getting the jack under there - get some pieces of wood, put a piece in front of each tire, then drive up (or push the car up) onto the wood. Many times that will give you the extra inch or two you need.

Dale

 

Another way is to use the "jacking positions" for the stands. This gives you the most room under the car to move around since the stands are on the outside not under the crossmembers. Really depends on where you will be working. I have a number of wooden blocks that I use under the regular car jack to achieve different jacking heights, then slip the jack stands in, move to the other side and repeat. When I do use my floor jack, I have a piece of galvanized pipe that can be used as an extension to the handle. This allows me to slide the small floor jack farther under the car if I need to use the subframe or diff as a jacking point.

 

I read this suggestion of yours earlier in another thread when I searched for the answer to my question. It is a great suggestion.


No problems using those jacking points then? I was wondering about that. I'm envious of your garage/shop. I wish I had that much space. I've got 4 cars and only the RX can fit inside my garage, and it is a tight fit.

 

I personally use all of the points mentioned already.

Regardless of which points you use, take it very easy setting the weight of the car onto the stands. The pinch rails on the sides of the car are somewhat reinforced in that area between the notches (the notches note where to locate the stock emergency jack), but if you plunk the car down onto the stands you will bend some metal. Ditto with the rear subframe - set it down gently on the stands.

Dave

 

I use the FSM locations as well and my car has lived up on the stands for a long time. Don't forget to give the car the "nudge" test before doing any work on it.

 

Here's mine,chassis rails at front,sub frame at rear

 

Another way you could do it is use the oem jack that comes with the car. It is low enough to get under there first to raise the car up a little bit then you can use your jack. Mine won't fit under the car unless I raise it a little first.

 

I like using these spots as well. Depending on where I'm working I'll also use the front subframe/lower control arm joint for the front.

 

I WOULD NOT use these places. The pinch weld will fold up over time. The rocker is easy to damage and they are both cosmetic surfaces IMHO.

When jacking the car up I always lift front to rear or vice versa not left to right.

 

I avoid jacking the rear of the car from the differential because I don't like putting so much sustained stress on the fluid filled differential bushings.

 

Agreed. If one wants the stands out from under the front subframe then rest them under the frame rails where they extend from the chassis floor pan. See Six Rotors pics above.

 

Where do you jack up the rear then?

 

Very helpful, thanks.

 

It takes less then 2 minutes.

 

A page from FSM.

 

Nudge?

I grab hold of something solid with both hands, such as the strut bar in front, and pull it back and forth pretty hard.

Better to find jackstand problems while I'm not under the car.

 

Do a google for "Nudge Test" and add jackstands in there.

 

What are opinions on supporting car on 3 jackstands instead of 4? I have on more than one occasion had a "loose" jackstand when on 4 w/weight of car obviously held on other 3. yikes!! very unnerving... (yes my frame is straight...) So I prefer to support wide on the pinch rails up front and one under the diff brace in back. Seems rock solid. Smart or stupid?

 

Kent, mine frequently does the tri-pod action as well. The others I've been under have done it a little as well (Israel's, Matt's, etc).

 

Sure. But IMHO the diff bushings are designed to hold the diff in place, not to support half the dead weight of the car when a floor jack is under them. Ruptured diff bushings are a known problem and asking them to support the weight of the car can't do anything to increase their life span.

The FD chassis is very stiff. You can jack from one side of the rear subframe and still lift the entire rear of the car. Alternatively if your jack can access it you can jack from the center of the rear subframe just behind the diff.

 

Interesting point your making regarding jacking at the differential and yet Mazda explicitly calls for jacking the rear of the car at the center of the differential.

 

17 year bump