I've been swiped
12-19-14, 04:53 PM
#26
thanks for the input guys sorry just havent been able to get on here (forgot really), body shop says its going to cost around 700 to fix, and i have a $500 deductible and they dont want to repaint a new fender, they want to fix this one and paint it... btw a new fender from mazda at ray would cost $205 just in case some ppl wanted to know
reason being , this isnt a realy CYM and it is a custom cym that was done before i bought the car, they matched the wing long ago but the guy says it will never match the same if painting from scratch that he would want to blend it in (its also 3 stage paint)....
debating on just repainting the whole car, i have many chips/dings and scratchs around the car i would like fixed.. i already have a new 99 spec front end waiting to go on along with 2 new head light covers?
the guy said it would prob be around 6k to strip the car and paint.. around 5k not stripped sound about right?
reason being , this isnt a realy CYM and it is a custom cym that was done before i bought the car, they matched the wing long ago but the guy says it will never match the same if painting from scratch that he would want to blend it in (its also 3 stage paint)....
debating on just repainting the whole car, i have many chips/dings and scratchs around the car i would like fixed.. i already have a new 99 spec front end waiting to go on along with 2 new head light covers?
the guy said it would prob be around 6k to strip the car and paint.. around 5k not stripped sound about right?
I would tell them to put a new fender on it and have the front end done at the same time. It should just need to be blended on the sides and you should be golden.
12-26-14, 07:58 PM
#27
Of course they want the fix the fender. They get paid more labor to repair than replace. If you are ok with body filler on your car then it sounds fine. IF you want a new fender then tell them that and take it somewhere else if they give you trouble.
I would tell them to put a new fender on it and have the front end done at the same time. It should just need to be blended on the sides and you should be golden.
01-02-15, 12:56 PM
#28
I dont get why people are making a bigger deal about this than it is. It is EASY to fix that fender with minimal filler work. It is EASY to paint the fender and blend the color out into the adjacent panels. I will guarantee you that there is not a single car on this forum that does not have filler in it. They have filler from the factory! If you take it to the right shop you will not have any filler thinker than a piece of paper.
01-02-15, 08:31 PM
#29
I'm very agaisnt filler on the fenders it does not flex instead it cracks and falls off .. if possible I'd go with a new fender . OR heck , Not new get a USED good conditioned fender . to put on there , and have them match and paint it .
I dont know what insurance company you have . But I know geico has special shops that do the repair work and they guarantee everything for life of the car , so if anything goes wrong they will fix it .
I dont know what insurance company you have . But I know geico has special shops that do the repair work and they guarantee everything for life of the car , so if anything goes wrong they will fix it .
01-02-15, 10:53 PM
#30
"Just blend into adjacent panel"... LOL.
That means, the entire door and the hood. Bright color like this on broad curvy surfaces that FD has, anyone with a relatively keen set of eyes will catch the blending job. I wonder how long the clear will last that is sprayed on top of scuffed paint as it is just physically sitting on the other layer, not bonded.
I didn't know factory did filler job and sand each bondo work by hand prior to being painted.
I rather not use bondo at all if I have a choice. A good shop will only get it close. I have not yet to see a shop that is patient enough and will go far enough to mix the paint that will match 20 year old paint.
That means, the entire door and the hood. Bright color like this on broad curvy surfaces that FD has, anyone with a relatively keen set of eyes will catch the blending job. I wonder how long the clear will last that is sprayed on top of scuffed paint as it is just physically sitting on the other layer, not bonded.
I didn't know factory did filler job and sand each bondo work by hand prior to being painted.
I rather not use bondo at all if I have a choice. A good shop will only get it close. I have not yet to see a shop that is patient enough and will go far enough to mix the paint that will match 20 year old paint.
01-02-15, 10:59 PM
#31
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why not just buy a new fender, they are cheap new
01-02-15, 11:23 PM
#32
01-03-15, 11:56 AM
#34
"Just blend into adjacent panel"... LOL.
That means, the entire door and the hood. Bright color like this on broad curvy surfaces that FD has, anyone with a relatively keen set of eyes will catch the blending job. I wonder how long the clear will last that is sprayed on top of scuffed paint as it is just physically sitting on the other layer, not bonded.
I didn't know factory did filler job and sand each bondo work by hand prior to being painted.
I rather not use bondo at all if I have a choice. A good shop will only get it close. I have not yet to see a shop that is patient enough and will go far enough to mix the paint that will match 20 year old paint.
That means, the entire door and the hood. Bright color like this on broad curvy surfaces that FD has, anyone with a relatively keen set of eyes will catch the blending job. I wonder how long the clear will last that is sprayed on top of scuffed paint as it is just physically sitting on the other layer, not bonded.
I didn't know factory did filler job and sand each bondo work by hand prior to being painted.
I rather not use bondo at all if I have a choice. A good shop will only get it close. I have not yet to see a shop that is patient enough and will go far enough to mix the paint that will match 20 year old paint.
And I would LOVE to see someone panel paint CYM!!!
01-06-15, 06:04 PM
#35
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Il put in my .02.
If you want a new fender, I think you might have a hard time finding one without any filler at all in it. I bought some body pieces to try and save me se bondo work, when I busted everything down to metal some of the parts I bought were worse than my originals.
I also used to think bondo was the devil... But after extensive work with it the past 2 months I think it's incredible. That's IF you use good (expensive) products. If you do your bodywork correctly you won't ever know, and adhesion is nothing you will ever worry about with quality products.... You could tackle this project yourself if you wanted too.
If you want a new fender, I think you might have a hard time finding one without any filler at all in it. I bought some body pieces to try and save me se bondo work, when I busted everything down to metal some of the parts I bought were worse than my originals.
I also used to think bondo was the devil... But after extensive work with it the past 2 months I think it's incredible. That's IF you use good (expensive) products. If you do your bodywork correctly you won't ever know, and adhesion is nothing you will ever worry about with quality products.... You could tackle this project yourself if you wanted too.
01-07-15, 08:19 AM
#36
Il put in my .02.
If you want a new fender, I think you might have a hard time finding one without any filler at all in it. I bought some body pieces to try and save me se bondo work, when I busted everything down to metal some of the parts I bought were worse than my originals.
I also used to think bondo was the devil... But after extensive work with it the past 2 months I think it's incredible. That's IF you use good (expensive) products. If you do your bodywork correctly you won't ever know, and adhesion is nothing you will ever worry about with quality products.... You could tackle this project yourself if you wanted too.
If you want a new fender, I think you might have a hard time finding one without any filler at all in it. I bought some body pieces to try and save me se bondo work, when I busted everything down to metal some of the parts I bought were worse than my originals.
I also used to think bondo was the devil... But after extensive work with it the past 2 months I think it's incredible. That's IF you use good (expensive) products. If you do your bodywork correctly you won't ever know, and adhesion is nothing you will ever worry about with quality products.... You could tackle this project yourself if you wanted too.
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