It's making the noise, but it's not going anywhere...
04-09-04, 04:10 AM
#27
The black smoke makes me think the MAP sensor hose fell off.
The 1-2 inHg of vacuum at idle, 30 psi boost session, and helicopter sound make me think the engine is already blown. If you used a compression gauge with a check valve, the compression numbers only tell us that one chamber is sealing -- you could still have a broken apex seal on each rotor.
Look into the end of the compression tester (the part you put into the spark plug hole) -- often there is a Schrader valve like you find on tire valve stems that you can remove to make it useful for testing rotary compression.
The fact that it even boosted to 30 psi makes me think the wastegate is malfunctioning (vacuum hoses fell off? bad actuator?).
-Max
The 1-2 inHg of vacuum at idle, 30 psi boost session, and helicopter sound make me think the engine is already blown. If you used a compression gauge with a check valve, the compression numbers only tell us that one chamber is sealing -- you could still have a broken apex seal on each rotor.
Look into the end of the compression tester (the part you put into the spark plug hole) -- often there is a Schrader valve like you find on tire valve stems that you can remove to make it useful for testing rotary compression.
The fact that it even boosted to 30 psi makes me think the wastegate is malfunctioning (vacuum hoses fell off? bad actuator?).
-Max
04-09-04, 01:19 PM
#28
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I have a 4.1 rear end, it was changed out too.
I'm getting so many different opinions on how you should check compression that I don't know what's right to do.
Is this right...
check the two bottom plug holes. Take out the EGI fuse. Floor the gas while turning the key. But while you're holding the compression tester, do you press the black button to let the air escape or not? And if you take out the Schrader valve do you still press the black button? Let the needle bounce three times and those are your readings?
Someone told me to do it while holding the button down and I got 70's constantly. This is obviously wrong, correct?
I'm getting so many different opinions on how you should check compression that I don't know what's right to do.
Is this right...
check the two bottom plug holes. Take out the EGI fuse. Floor the gas while turning the key. But while you're holding the compression tester, do you press the black button to let the air escape or not? And if you take out the Schrader valve do you still press the black button? Let the needle bounce three times and those are your readings?
Someone told me to do it while holding the button down and I got 70's constantly. This is obviously wrong, correct?
04-09-04, 02:44 PM
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Alright, so there's not really a boost problem. I installed a different boost gauge, mechanical this time, and my boost patterns are fine. Idle's right, boost is good, etc.
And I've checked my compression the right way, and it's fine. I did it by taking out that Shrader valve and all that. So scratch compression and boost problems off my list.
The car just runs crappy for some reason. To recap,
My car runs super super super rich and the check engine light comes on when I hold it in boost for an extended period
And I've checked my compression the right way, and it's fine. I did it by taking out that Shrader valve and all that. So scratch compression and boost problems off my list.
The car just runs crappy for some reason. To recap,
My car runs super super super rich and the check engine light comes on when I hold it in boost for an extended period
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