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Internal reliability mods?

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Old May 20, 2004 | 03:14 PM
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Internal reliability mods?

I'm pulling the motor again to replace my tired oil control rings and was curious:

Are there any internal mods worth doing? I've heard of honing coolant passages and such.. Anyone have any experience? Maybe somewhere I can reference? I looked around a bit, but came up short.. Thanks.
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Old May 21, 2004 | 08:09 AM
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Bump. Don't make me start a FMIC vs. SMIC vs. HMIC vs. VMIC thread...
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Old May 21, 2004 | 08:14 PM
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**** it.. Close this thread, I'll go elsewhere.
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Old May 21, 2004 | 08:28 PM
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Aftermarket O-rings?
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Old May 21, 2004 | 08:39 PM
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upgrade the oil passages? i dont know ive heard of people doing it, however ive never heard of a rotary dying from oil starvation
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Old May 21, 2004 | 09:31 PM
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i remember reading that mazdacomp makes aftermarket bearings.

and there was another thread on vitron o rings and teflon o rings

http://www.rotaryaviation.com/o-ring_kits.htm
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Old May 21, 2004 | 09:42 PM
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Reworked oil passages to improve oil flow from the pump to all bearings. If you are skilled, you can do all with a Dremel tool except for the e-shaft work.

Replace the stock e-shaft oil cooling jets with the racing ones which also work at idle, or remove the ball and springs from the stock ones. This cools the rotors better
and even flow at idle.

Have the engine dynamically balanced by Mazda Trix.
They will tell you what to ship, and even ask about what apex seals you will be using.

Have the water passages by the plugs and exhaust ribbed for better cooling.
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Old May 21, 2004 | 10:06 PM
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I had the rotor housings and eccentric shaft (jets but not jounals) mods done by Mazdatrix.

http://www.rotorsportsracing.com/per...htm#coolingmod
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Old May 22, 2004 | 01:57 PM
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Even with the racing oil jets or stock ones with springs and ***** removed, idle oil pressure is normal.
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Old May 22, 2004 | 04:28 PM
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From: Scott AFB, IL
Originally posted by cewrx7r1
Reworked oil passages to improve oil flow from the pump to all bearings. If you are skilled, you can do all with a Dremel tool except for the e-shaft work.

Replace the stock e-shaft oil cooling jets with the racing ones which also work at idle, or remove the ball and springs from the stock ones. This cools the rotors better
and even flow at idle.

Have the engine dynamically balanced by Mazda Trix.
They will tell you what to ship, and even ask about what apex seals you will be using.

Have the water passages by the plugs and exhaust ribbed for better cooling.
Chuck,

Thanks for the info!

Appreciate the links from the others as well. Just what I was looking for.
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Old May 22, 2004 | 04:54 PM
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there is also that oil temp thing in the damn eshaft.. u can make a plug instead so you have oil all the time instead of waiting for warmup..i forgot what it was called.. its in the video.
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Old May 22, 2004 | 05:19 PM
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thermo pellet?
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Old May 22, 2004 | 11:10 PM
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yeah that thing..haha.
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