Mods: m2 stage 3 ecu, dp, arc intake, greddy smic (boosting 0.9bar)

Recently I've installed mazda reman and low mile seq turbo. After installing them along with my mods listed above I've lost traction. With WOT from the 1st to 2nd my rear spins out like crazy and swings left to right on dry flat road.

Before installation of motor, the twins, and greddy smic, my car had good traction. Is this what happens after the smic being changed? What can I do to get more traction? I'm gettin rear spoiler but I don't think that will help. Anything else I can do without buying something too expensive?

 

There's a very inexpensive mod called your right foot that's proven very effective if used properly.

 

You are making more power, get better tires. LOL.

 

lol...so you can't actally WOT on 2nd gear with the mods I have? Thats going to be hard to launch the car right from dead stop. (I'm a newbie, be nice... )

I forgot to mention, I'm getting a new set of tires as well.

 

Well....basically, yeah. These cars can be a handful, most people have NO experience with the power-to-weight-ratio of something like the FD. I don't know how many people I have had turn to me while riding around and say something along the lines of, "Uh...are you DELIBERATELY spinning the tires?" to which I say, no...it just happens if you step on it a little too hard, or at the wrong time. Or if there is ANY sort of traction limiter like wet pavement...these cars will just break the tires loose at will in low gears. I mean Jeeze...I've got an automatic car and have to be careful.

So...as Kento said....use your right foot a little more carefully....lol!

 

Thanks. Its good to know I'm not the only one with the traction problem on 2nd gear.

 

It's not anything some 285 width tires couldn't fix!

 

I have stock rims with 245/45/16. This is going to be tough to play with 4 wheeler Evo from dead stop.

I didn't think it had go that far (285) to keep my traction with my bolt on mods...

How about T-II Diff. ? Would that help?

 

deflate your rear tires to 20psi

shitty mileage, but you'll stick better.

 

"deflate your rear tires to 20psi"

I'm not ready to say *bye bye* to my new tires.

I'm just wondering if C5 vett, Cobra and camero and all other high HP cars actually loose control if you were to WOT on 2nd gear as well?

All this time, I was thinking they were WOT after 1st gear.... No wonder its hard to play around with evo and sti...

 

Kento's mod will work, but you really need to shop around for a good one-- not all right feet are created equal. You also have the problem of installation, but that's a thread in itself.

Another cheap and effective mod is bags of rocks or sand in the hatch area. Four hundred pounds (give or take a hundred) should be good for starters. If you have problems with the stuff shifting around, you can use poured concrete instead (and if you want to add bling, you can scratch in your initials before it sets).

 

Lmao!

 

I admit, Art of War, that is freakin' hilarious HAHAHAHHAHA

 

i was thinking a fuel cell filled with quick crete. Come on boy, learn to drive in a corolla first please. Most people that own high HP cars like vettes and vipers and such know how to control the wild child inside and refrain from juvenal acts of stupidity,.. for at least a block and a half

 

I think it more a problem with your right foot than the cars falt - I live in Greece where roads are like glass and have pretty much the same mods (+ street port) - my tyres need changing yet, I do not loose traction that easily
Why don't you try racelogic's traction control if you are worried

 

I'd definitely look for some wider rims.

 

Biggest question here is what kind of tires do you have? You need good, sticky tires if you want to hook up with that kind of power.

On my old TII (which made some CRAZY power) I had some bobo tires on stock TII rims that I put on once for autocross. 225's on stock 16x7 TII rims. Absolutely ZERO traction if I put my foot down. Swapped my rims back on with 225 Dunlop SP8000's, and I'd get a chirp shifting to second. HUGE difference.

Speaking of, I can't WAIT to get some new tires for my FD. Car came with near-new Bridgestone Eager's - those things are crap! Not only do they not stick and inspire zero confidence, but they're VERY noisy.

Dale

 

this thread just downright hilarious. If you have a low 13 sec/high 12 sec 1/4 mile car, the 1-2 shift will blow the tires away if you snag it hard with factory tires and a strong clutch. Just don't power shift soo hard. Trust me if you are excited about breaking lose sideways during the 1-2 shift, you need to really practice and get used to your car before going further with any more mods. Plus don't get better tires for a while. And really get to know your car man. That way when you mod the hell out of it, and you are topping 3rd gear and breaking loose you won't have to think about how to drive the car, but instead it will be instinct. Too many people jump into the RWD powerhouse cars, and think they can drive anything.
Turbo cars, and V8 Muscle are completely different as well. Some cars break to the left some break to the right. The key is to know your car. Save your Rex from another insurance total and LEARN HOW TO DRIVE. I drove my Single Rx7 in the snow for god's sake. You just have to know how to drive, and like the other guy said, use the gas to the best of the situation. Remember your losing ground anytime the tires spin.
Good luck with your beast, and go out and have some SAFE managable fun.
Oh lord, I sound like a damn old man or something YUCK.

 

Ditto on the Dunlops. Very good tire for the money. I had these crap Yokahoma 245/45s on my car which you could easily overpower in first gear with a stock FD. I then replaced them with 225/50 Dunlops SP 8000s and my traction problem was no more. Barely a chirp when shifting to second.

Check your treadware rating on your tires. 140 to 200 is what you should have on a car such as an RX7. 300 is for people who care more about tire wear, and less about driving fast.

 

I have 225/50-16 Bridgestone Potenza S02's on my car. They are gumballs. I love them, but they are not cheap.

Sonny

 

Anybody have any experience with Pirellis? worth the money? just wondering....

 

Well put.

 

Thanks for your harsh input guys.

I'll just drive my wife's corolla from now on and learn "how to drive" for my and everyone elses sake

 

The whole concept of performance driving is learning to stay on the edge of the circle of adhesion. You didn't "lose traction" - you gained acceleration, and are overpowering the available traction. You can increase the available traction with bigger, better tires, but that doesn't change the fact that you need to learn what the "edge" feels like. This is all about learning how to drive - specifically learning how to feel what the car is doing and how your inputs - throttle, brakes, steering - affect it. You're not born knowing this - it takes time and effort.

Driving a high hp car in the dry is very similar to driving a low hp car in the wet on slicks - it can be done, and it can be done well, but you have to learn how. A racing seat and harnesses helps in being able to feel lateral g's and braking. Driving shoes help in being able to feel the brake and throttle better and modulate them more incrementally. If you're breaking the rear loose just accelerating on dry pavement on the street, however, you just need to learn to be gentler with the throttle. Imagine an egg between the sole of your shoe and the throttle. You can push the throttle all the way open, but have to do it gently so as not to break the egg. You'll still be at warp speed faster than most other cars out there. And what's the point of drag racing from stoplight to stoplight, anyhow?

Find a track event with instruction and sign up. You'll learn more faster than any other way I know.