INNOVATE wideband, anyone using them?
#1
I'm a CF and poop smith
Thread Starter
INNOVATE wideband, anyone using them?
INNOVATE wideband, anyone using them? are they any good? the other other wideband I had look (a long time ago) was the motec wideband which was a lot more expensive (10X the price and that was over 10 years ago!).
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/
#3
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I had issues with mine (lc1)
I had to recalibrate the wideband quite often, so often that I eventually stopped caring about it working properly.
If you do a quick google search, some other people are having these issues as well.
I had to recalibrate the wideband quite often, so often that I eventually stopped caring about it working properly.
If you do a quick google search, some other people are having these issues as well.
#4
I'm a CF and poop smith
Thread Starter
i have read on amazon.com that it has problems. how about the NGK AFX Powerdex AFX Air-Fuel Ratio Monitor Kit or AEM Power X-WiFi Wideband UEGO and EGT Wireless Gauge?
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#12
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I've had an LC-1 for over a year. It's worked perfectly fine until the last couple of weeks where the AFR #'s get stuck at 7.*. It happens after I've driven for about 20-30 mins. So I think the sensor is starting to overheat quickly. My sensor is installed on the midpipe right after it connects to the downpipe.
I'm gonna recalibrate it and see what happens.
The o2 sensor is a standard bosch sensor, if it's overheating or going bad for whatever reason, it has nothing to do with the actual innovative made parts
I'm gonna recalibrate it and see what happens.
The o2 sensor is a standard bosch sensor, if it's overheating or going bad for whatever reason, it has nothing to do with the actual innovative made parts
#13
talking head
The o2 sensor is a standard bosch sensor, if it's overheating or going bad for whatever reason, it has nothing to do with the actual innovative made parts
only innovate do this,, and only innovate have the extreme issues with sensor longevity and multiple calibrations
so much so,, they but out bulletins on how you should earth the rest of your car,, because it aint them ,,, ....................apparently.................... .....
i was tempted with the MTX-L,, but just go look on the innovate forum and see the feedback,, and lack of official help or response
#14
I'm a CF and poop smith
Thread Starter
incorrect ,, the controller runs a heating circuit ,, the logic used by innovate to control this circuit is DIFFERENT to that recommended by the makers of the o2 sensor
only innovate do this,, and only innovate have the extreme issues with sensor longevity and multiple calibrations
so much so,, they but out bulletins on how you should earth the rest of your car,, because it aint them ,,, ....................apparently.................... .....
i was tempted with the MTX-L,, but just go look on the innovate forum and see the feedback,, and lack of official help or response
only innovate do this,, and only innovate have the extreme issues with sensor longevity and multiple calibrations
so much so,, they but out bulletins on how you should earth the rest of your car,, because it aint them ,,, ....................apparently.................... .....
i was tempted with the MTX-L,, but just go look on the innovate forum and see the feedback,, and lack of official help or response
#15
I'm a CF and poop smith
Thread Starter
I've had an LC-1 for over a year. It's worked perfectly fine until the last couple of weeks where the AFR #'s get stuck at 7.*. It happens after I've driven for about 20-30 mins. So I think the sensor is starting to overheat quickly. My sensor is installed on the midpipe right after it connects to the downpipe.
I'm gonna recalibrate it and see what happens.
The o2 sensor is a standard bosch sensor, if it's overheating or going bad for whatever reason, it has nothing to do with the actual innovative made parts
I'm gonna recalibrate it and see what happens.
The o2 sensor is a standard bosch sensor, if it's overheating or going bad for whatever reason, it has nothing to do with the actual innovative made parts
#17
I'm a CF and poop smith
Thread Starter
I always though that you were suppose to put the sensor as close as possible to the engine to get accurate temp readings.
#20
Searching for 10th's
iTrader: (11)
1. use the screw in heat sink fitting that Innovate sells
2. Create a heat sink to use as a washer.
Mine is a 3x3 inch piece of 1/8" copper with sides radiused 90 degrees,
mostly just for fitment.
3. Don't use the stock O2 sensor location - move it about 10 or so
inches further away on the downpipe.
Mine is 4 or 5 years old now, still works.
#21
needs more track time...
iTrader: (13)
The wideband is such an important sensor, I have two installed (a PLX and an Innovate LC-1), so that I can use one to check the other. This was after some issues with the PLX accuracy (that PLX was able to fix). Both are installed near the connection between downpipe and midpipe. Neither has a heat sink.
I use the PLX as a "daily" sensor with their multi-gauge display and use the LC-1 to check it's accuracy occasionally. The LC-1 works great, and I like the fact that it can be calibrated in free air (the PLX apparently self-calibrates during power-up).
I use the PLX as a "daily" sensor with their multi-gauge display and use the LC-1 to check it's accuracy occasionally. The LC-1 works great, and I like the fact that it can be calibrated in free air (the PLX apparently self-calibrates during power-up).
#22
Rotary Enthusiast
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LC1 has been fine for me for about 2 years so far and was easy to set up with datalogit. I even add a couple gallons of leaded race fuel at track events and it hasn't affected the sensor yet. I'm not sure if the mxl analog output can be reprogrammed or not, but I like having a 9-16 afr range for more accuracy. I wouldn't want to be limited to only a 7-22 scale for logging, a lot of that range is useless.
#23
Understand these are NOT lab quality. None of the affordable ones are. You cant expect them to be infallible like OEM or lab quality stuff for the price you are paying. Controller that is.
With that being said, I run LC1's on my 4g63 on a modded stock ecm, and one on my 4agze Corolla ms2ed. Both have lasted almost 4 years now. Same sensor ect ect. I do drive the talon more and it is starting to give me issues, like crapping out now and again.
Make sure you let the sensor go through its warm up cycle before starting. If your worried, just use the wideband for tuning. After your maps are spot, pull it and throw on a narrow band for closed loop control. However I use my lc1 for closed loop on both platforms with no issues.
When I get my rx7 back on the road ill most likely go with the mtx.
With that being said, I run LC1's on my 4g63 on a modded stock ecm, and one on my 4agze Corolla ms2ed. Both have lasted almost 4 years now. Same sensor ect ect. I do drive the talon more and it is starting to give me issues, like crapping out now and again.
Make sure you let the sensor go through its warm up cycle before starting. If your worried, just use the wideband for tuning. After your maps are spot, pull it and throw on a narrow band for closed loop control. However I use my lc1 for closed loop on both platforms with no issues.
When I get my rx7 back on the road ill most likely go with the mtx.
#24
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
I use a mtx-l one, installed it with a heat sync since my o2 bung on my single Turbo down pipe is 6" from my turbo. Never had any issues, outputs perfectly to my data logit and I've used it for tuning. So far its survived a dyno session, a year of street driving, and 6 time attack events.
#25
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (4)
I use a mtx-l one, installed it with a heat sync since my o2 bung on my single Turbo down pipe is 6" from my turbo. Never had any issues, outputs perfectly to my data logit and I've used it for tuning. So far its survived a dyno session, a year of street driving, and 6 time attack events.