Injectors Always Firing
From what OP has described of swapping ECUs and running new wires, I suspect the injectors are either damaged (or stuck open) or OP somehow has two damaged / malfunctioning ECUs.
I would unplug the injectors (so they can't get power) and check if they still leak when the fuel system is pressurized. That should help prove or disprove if they are damaged/stuck open.
While the injectors are unplugged, a test light might be an appropriate way to test the ECU and/or harness. The injectors should have 12-14 Volts supplied at one of the pins (black/yellow wires in the factory harness), and the ECU triggers the injector by very briefly connecting the other pin to ground to spray fuel. With the engine off, the ECU should not be connecting to ground at all so the test light should be dark / not lit at all. If the test light shows power and ground both being supplied to the injectors, that suggests a harness or ECU problem. Two damaged ECUs sounds rare but it's not impossible, if both ECUs were connected to a problematic wiring harness they both could have gotten zapped.
With the injector disconnected, testing with a multimeter might get some false conclusions since the trigger pin might show 0 Volts but that doesn't mean the ECU is necessarily connecting to ground. A multimeter voltage test with the injector plugged in would be accurate, but you would need to backprobe the pins and that's beyond the electrical skills of most people.
I would unplug the injectors (so they can't get power) and check if they still leak when the fuel system is pressurized. That should help prove or disprove if they are damaged/stuck open.
While the injectors are unplugged, a test light might be an appropriate way to test the ECU and/or harness. The injectors should have 12-14 Volts supplied at one of the pins (black/yellow wires in the factory harness), and the ECU triggers the injector by very briefly connecting the other pin to ground to spray fuel. With the engine off, the ECU should not be connecting to ground at all so the test light should be dark / not lit at all. If the test light shows power and ground both being supplied to the injectors, that suggests a harness or ECU problem. Two damaged ECUs sounds rare but it's not impossible, if both ECUs were connected to a problematic wiring harness they both could have gotten zapped.
With the injector disconnected, testing with a multimeter might get some false conclusions since the trigger pin might show 0 Volts but that doesn't mean the ECU is necessarily connecting to ground. A multimeter voltage test with the injector plugged in would be accurate, but you would need to backprobe the pins and that's beyond the electrical skills of most people.
Last edited by scotty305; Sep 8, 2025 at 09:02 PM.
I would say order a noid light from amazon or get one from a local parts store to see if the issue is signal based or mechanical (like stuck open injectors.) I would still lean on the ECU being bad since you have a new circuit and the car was running before this. The chance of multiple injectors getting mechanically stuck open are extremely rare unless you found some debris in the system after the fuel filter. There is a much high chance of two bad ECUs. Old AEM ECUs are known to do this while doing a firmware update and PowerFC is known to do this when they fail a particular way. But at least if you narrow it down to being mechanical or electrical that will help your search. Noid lights are easier to use than trying to test with a multimeter since they are designed to be used for injectors. Otherwise go get some T-pins from a craft store and back probe the injector connector so you can alligator clip the multimeter leads instead of trying to stab the connector or harness with fat leads.
I don't believe the injectors will fire period without a crank signal unless there is a setting in PowerFC I'm not aware of. TPS or other sensor inputs shouldn't have any effect on fueling until it sees RPM. I'm guessing you aren't seeing any RPM on the display while the car is off?
The Power FC commander also has a "injector duty" read out.
https://youtube.com/shorts/5mEIBbUTGVk
https://youtube.com/shorts/XokgmyCl3B4
https://youtube.com/shorts/5mEIBbUTGVk
https://youtube.com/shorts/XokgmyCl3B4
Last edited by Redbul; Sep 10, 2025 at 02:12 AM.
Just a shot in the dark but unplug the injectors and see if they still spray. Maybe the issue is the o rings INSIDE the rail. Fuel will flow past a side feed and go directly into the motor if the o ring(s) on the injector go bad. Never seen it but you have a weird circumstance. The issue may be mechanical and not electrical.
Does the ecu start to prime the injectors, i.e. run the fuel pump, once the key is turned, immediately prior to firing?
Normally the fuel would flow back to the gas tank. But if the FPR is closed, that route is shut off.
While you are in there check your fuel pulsation damper. Is the little rubber plug intact? Likely good to replace the FPD with new.
Normally the fuel would flow back to the gas tank. But if the FPR is closed, that route is shut off.
While you are in there check your fuel pulsation damper. Is the little rubber plug intact? Likely good to replace the FPD with new.
At the pintle for both top and side feed and for side feed only, the lower o ring. They can fail and fuel will bypass the injector entirely and just leak out between the rail and the injector body. Typically a drip causing random misfires but with a full blown failure it can drain the rail.
Check continuity from either pin on the unplugged injector to the rail body itself. The last thing I can think of if that passes is to remove the ground signal pin from the ecu and see if the injectors shut. If they do then the problem is either both ecus you tested OR the ground in the harness is rubber through somewhere causing a continuous ground.
These are the last 3 possibilities based on what has been said so far.
These are the last 3 possibilities based on what has been said so far.
From what OP has described of swapping ECUs and running new wires, I suspect the injectors are either damaged (or stuck open) or OP somehow has two damaged / malfunctioning ECUs.
I would unplug the injectors (so they can't get power) and check if they still leak when the fuel system is pressurized. That should help prove or disprove if they are damaged/stuck open.
While the injectors are unplugged, a test light might be an appropriate way to test the ECU and/or harness. The injectors should have 12-14 Volts supplied at one of the pins (black/yellow wires in the factory harness), and the ECU triggers the injector by very briefly connecting the other pin to ground to spray fuel. With the engine off, the ECU should not be connecting to ground at all so the test light should be dark / not lit at all. If the test light shows power and ground both being supplied to the injectors, that suggests a harness or ECU problem. Two damaged ECUs sounds rare but it's not impossible, if both ECUs were connected to a problematic wiring harness they both could have gotten zapped.
With the injector disconnected, testing with a multimeter might get some false conclusions since the trigger pin might show 0 Volts but that doesn't mean the ECU is necessarily connecting to ground. A multimeter voltage test with the injector plugged in would be accurate, but you would need to backprobe the pins and that's beyond the electrical skills of most people.
I would unplug the injectors (so they can't get power) and check if they still leak when the fuel system is pressurized. That should help prove or disprove if they are damaged/stuck open.
While the injectors are unplugged, a test light might be an appropriate way to test the ECU and/or harness. The injectors should have 12-14 Volts supplied at one of the pins (black/yellow wires in the factory harness), and the ECU triggers the injector by very briefly connecting the other pin to ground to spray fuel. With the engine off, the ECU should not be connecting to ground at all so the test light should be dark / not lit at all. If the test light shows power and ground both being supplied to the injectors, that suggests a harness or ECU problem. Two damaged ECUs sounds rare but it's not impossible, if both ECUs were connected to a problematic wiring harness they both could have gotten zapped.
With the injector disconnected, testing with a multimeter might get some false conclusions since the trigger pin might show 0 Volts but that doesn't mean the ECU is necessarily connecting to ground. A multimeter voltage test with the injector plugged in would be accurate, but you would need to backprobe the pins and that's beyond the electrical skills of most people.
Check continuity from either pin on the unplugged injector to the rail body itself. The last thing I can think of if that passes is to remove the ground signal pin from the ecu and see if the injectors shut. If they do then the problem is either both ecus you tested OR the ground in the harness is rubber through somewhere causing a continuous ground.
These are the last 3 possibilities based on what has been said so far.
These are the last 3 possibilities based on what has been said so far.
That's right..... even if it was rubbed through in the harness, you built that sub harness to rule that out. Another idea.... isolate where the issue COULD be. Unplug connect 4 on the ecu and see if the ground drops from the injector. This will at least tell you where the constant ground is coming from. Plug 4 on the ecu is where the pins for the injector grounds are. The power source for the injectors come from the EGI relay.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...power-1123691/
So at best this would say the grounding issue can be isolated to SOMETHING on that connector.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...power-1123691/
So at best this would say the grounding issue can be isolated to SOMETHING on that connector.
Does the ecu start to prime the injectors, i.e. run the fuel pump, once the key is turned, immediately prior to firing?
Normally the fuel would flow back to the gas tank. But if the FPR is closed, that route is shut off.
While you are in there check your fuel pulsation damper. Is the little rubber plug intact? Likely good to replace the FPD with new.
Normally the fuel would flow back to the gas tank. But if the FPR is closed, that route is shut off.
While you are in there check your fuel pulsation damper. Is the little rubber plug intact? Likely good to replace the FPD with new.
Not that I follow this fully, but Mazda messed with the standard FPR set up by inserting a control solenoid into the vacuum line circuit to help with hot starts.
But in any event, it sounds almost like the OP has an aftermarket FPR installed.
That's right..... even if it was rubbed through in the harness, you built that sub harness to rule that out. Another idea.... isolate where the issue COULD be. Unplug connect 4 on the ecu and see if the ground drops from the injector. This will at least tell you where the constant ground is coming from. Plug 4 on the ecu is where the pins for the injector grounds are. The power source for the injectors come from the EGI relay.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...power-1123691/
So at best this would say the grounding issue can be isolated to SOMETHING on that connector.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...power-1123691/
So at best this would say the grounding issue can be isolated to SOMETHING on that connector.








