Injector removal quick question (and some venting)
#26
Originally posted by rx7speed811
sorry if this is a really dumb question, but can somebody please explain to me exactly what the purge system does? i would like to know before removing it when i do the full non-seq/block off conversion.
sorry if this is a really dumb question, but can somebody please explain to me exactly what the purge system does? i would like to know before removing it when i do the full non-seq/block off conversion.
At idle, the gas fumes are handled by the charcol cannister. While the engine is under load (ie, driving), the gas fumes are handled by the purge control system.
#27
Just to add...if no one mentioned it....
When you replace your injector o-rings, you must also replace you injector GROMMETS. They will help SEAT the o-rings and the injectors tighter. Over time, the grommets get groves in them from the bottom of the injectors...plus the get hard.
I WOULD RECOMMEND THAT YOU REPLACE YOUR PD! Just cheap insurance....(cheaper then replacing everything above the block).
Good luck.
When you replace your injector o-rings, you must also replace you injector GROMMETS. They will help SEAT the o-rings and the injectors tighter. Over time, the grommets get groves in them from the bottom of the injectors...plus the get hard.
I WOULD RECOMMEND THAT YOU REPLACE YOUR PD! Just cheap insurance....(cheaper then replacing everything above the block).
Good luck.
#30
Originally posted by damian
ok, another question about the hoses going to the aluminum check valve, i just replaced them with silicone when i did my hose job, but since it carries gas fumes should i change it to regular rubber hose? silicone is very bad with oil , and supposedly gas too?
ok, another question about the hoses going to the aluminum check valve, i just replaced them with silicone when i did my hose job, but since it carries gas fumes should i change it to regular rubber hose? silicone is very bad with oil , and supposedly gas too?
#32
apeiron
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 1,773
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Can I replace that alumminum check valve with just any kind of check valve? I have some extra ones that I pulled off when doing the hose job that I could use, but if its going to impare the engine or not even work.... 17 dollars cant hurt... but at the same time, why not save 17 bucks and use one of those cute little green plastic ones.
#33
Originally posted by spoolage
Can I replace that alumminum check valve with just any kind of check valve? I have some extra ones that I pulled off when doing the hose job that I could use, but if its going to impare the engine or not even work.... 17 dollars cant hurt... but at the same time, why not save 17 bucks and use one of those cute little green plastic ones.
Can I replace that alumminum check valve with just any kind of check valve? I have some extra ones that I pulled off when doing the hose job that I could use, but if its going to impare the engine or not even work.... 17 dollars cant hurt... but at the same time, why not save 17 bucks and use one of those cute little green plastic ones.
#34
im in the middle of doing the sillicone hose job... which aluminum check valve are you refering to? mine are all plastic!?! i have to make sure i dont switch it wiv a silicone hose!
#36
Originally posted by spoolage
sounds good... do you by any chance have the product code for that valve in specific?
sounds good... do you by any chance have the product code for that valve in specific?
Originally posted by Cihuuy
im in the middle of doing the sillicone hose job... which aluminum check valve are you refering to? mine are all plastic!?! i have to make sure i dont switch it wiv a silicone hose!
im in the middle of doing the sillicone hose job... which aluminum check valve are you refering to? mine are all plastic!?! i have to make sure i dont switch it wiv a silicone hose!
#38
apeiron
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 1,773
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
also,
how can we tell if the valve is bad.... mine seems to still stop the air flow, I remembered I was seeing what it was and was sucking on it and it still seems to block the air flow.
how can we tell if the valve is bad.... mine seems to still stop the air flow, I remembered I was seeing what it was and was sucking on it and it still seems to block the air flow.
#39
Originally posted by spoolage
also,
how can we tell if the valve is bad.... mine seems to still stop the air flow, I remembered I was seeing what it was and was sucking on it and it still seems to block the air flow.
also,
how can we tell if the valve is bad.... mine seems to still stop the air flow, I remembered I was seeing what it was and was sucking on it and it still seems to block the air flow.
#40
Senior Member
Originally posted by SanJoRX7
I believe that the FPD is the subject of a Mazda recall, no? In any event, it has been listed as the "culprit" in many engine fires. If you're getting that fuel smell, and you can't find the problem, replacing the FPD is probably a bit of cheap (how cheap I don't know :P) insurance against a fire.
One of the other things that people seem to replace when they're having this sort of trouble is the injector o-rings. Seems to me they'd be relatively inexpensive, and if you're already knee deep in the poop, might as well replace those, right?
I believe that the FPD is the subject of a Mazda recall, no? In any event, it has been listed as the "culprit" in many engine fires. If you're getting that fuel smell, and you can't find the problem, replacing the FPD is probably a bit of cheap (how cheap I don't know :P) insurance against a fire.
One of the other things that people seem to replace when they're having this sort of trouble is the injector o-rings. Seems to me they'd be relatively inexpensive, and if you're already knee deep in the poop, might as well replace those, right?
alex
Last edited by alwan16; 03-18-03 at 06:10 PM.