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Injector removal quick question (and some venting)

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Old Jul 24, 2002 | 09:27 AM
  #26  
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Originally posted by rx7speed811
sorry if this is a really dumb question, but can somebody please explain to me exactly what the purge system does? i would like to know before removing it when i do the full non-seq/block off conversion.
It vents the gas fumes back into the intake to sent through the exhaust.

At idle, the gas fumes are handled by the charcol cannister. While the engine is under load (ie, driving), the gas fumes are handled by the purge control system.
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Old Jul 24, 2002 | 09:39 AM
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Just to add...if no one mentioned it....

When you replace your injector o-rings, you must also replace you injector GROMMETS. They will help SEAT the o-rings and the injectors tighter. Over time, the grommets get groves in them from the bottom of the injectors...plus the get hard.

I WOULD RECOMMEND THAT YOU REPLACE YOUR PD! Just cheap insurance....(cheaper then replacing everything above the block).

Good luck.
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Old Jul 24, 2002 | 09:39 AM
  #28  
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Originally posted by daem0n
Hey, I was getting a gas smell under WOT and figured I would replace the aluminum valve just in case it was that since it is so cheap. And it turned out it was - no more fuel smell under boost
Sweet! I actually helped someone.
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Old Mar 6, 2003 | 02:32 AM
  #29  
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ok, another question about the hoses going to the aluminum check valve, i just replaced them with silicone when i did my hose job, but since it carries gas fumes should i change it to regular rubber hose? silicone is very bad with oil , and supposedly gas too?
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Old Mar 6, 2003 | 07:51 AM
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Originally posted by damian
ok, another question about the hoses going to the aluminum check valve, i just replaced them with silicone when i did my hose job, but since it carries gas fumes should i change it to regular rubber hose? silicone is very bad with oil , and supposedly gas too?
Yep, you'd be better off in the long run with rubber on these.
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Old Mar 6, 2003 | 10:43 AM
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thanks for the info ES
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Old Mar 18, 2003 | 09:41 AM
  #32  
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Can I replace that alumminum check valve with just any kind of check valve? I have some extra ones that I pulled off when doing the hose job that I could use, but if its going to impare the engine or not even work.... 17 dollars cant hurt... but at the same time, why not save 17 bucks and use one of those cute little green plastic ones.
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Old Mar 18, 2003 | 10:31 AM
  #33  
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From: Kansas City, MO
Originally posted by spoolage
Can I replace that alumminum check valve with just any kind of check valve? I have some extra ones that I pulled off when doing the hose job that I could use, but if its going to impare the engine or not even work.... 17 dollars cant hurt... but at the same time, why not save 17 bucks and use one of those cute little green plastic ones.
I don't know for sure, but I believe the valves are made to open at specific pressures (hence why each check valve is made different).
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Old Mar 18, 2003 | 10:36 AM
  #34  
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im in the middle of doing the sillicone hose job... which aluminum check valve are you refering to? mine are all plastic!?! i have to make sure i dont switch it wiv a silicone hose!
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Old Mar 18, 2003 | 10:37 AM
  #35  
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sounds good... do you by any chance have the product code for that valve in specific?
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Old Mar 18, 2003 | 10:41 AM
  #36  
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From: Kansas City, MO
Originally posted by spoolage
sounds good... do you by any chance have the product code for that valve in specific?
Look at the bottom of Page 1 on this thread.

Originally posted by Cihuuy
im in the middle of doing the sillicone hose job... which aluminum check valve are you refering to? mine are all plastic!?! i have to make sure i dont switch it wiv a silicone hose!
I don't have a picture of it, but it's located close to the PCV valve near the oil filler neck.
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Old Mar 18, 2003 | 03:14 PM
  #37  
apeiron
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yea, its near the oil filler neck, by the throttle body, its around in that area, just look around for a silver aluminum piece connected to two hoses. thers only one there
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Old Mar 18, 2003 | 03:16 PM
  #38  
apeiron
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From: Boulder, CO
also,

how can we tell if the valve is bad.... mine seems to still stop the air flow, I remembered I was seeing what it was and was sucking on it and it still seems to block the air flow.
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Old Mar 18, 2003 | 03:21 PM
  #39  
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From: Kansas City, MO
Originally posted by spoolage
also,

how can we tell if the valve is bad.... mine seems to still stop the air flow, I remembered I was seeing what it was and was sucking on it and it still seems to block the air flow.
You should only need to replace it *if* you can blow through both sides. If you can only blow through one side, and only suck through the other side, it's fine.
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Old Mar 18, 2003 | 06:03 PM
  #40  
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Originally posted by SanJoRX7
I believe that the FPD is the subject of a Mazda recall, no? In any event, it has been listed as the "culprit" in many engine fires. If you're getting that fuel smell, and you can't find the problem, replacing the FPD is probably a bit of cheap (how cheap I don't know :P) insurance against a fire.

One of the other things that people seem to replace when they're having this sort of trouble is the injector o-rings. Seems to me they'd be relatively inexpensive, and if you're already knee deep in the poop, might as well replace those, right?
this is an old thread but the fpd was not the basis of the fuel recall. the fuel recall was to replaced the fuel line in between the secondary injectors (on the Lower Intake Manifold) and Primary Injectors. the new hose attaches directly to the secondary injectors with the banjo bolt and made of a different material that is more durable. coincidentally this hose is now about $100 to buy new from mazda but all recalls should have been completed by now. of course it is a good idea to replace the fpd and injector o-rings when in there.

alex

Last edited by alwan16; Mar 18, 2003 at 06:10 PM.
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