Initial IC Fan Observations
#26
2/4 wheel cornering fiend
Originally posted by Brentis
very good posts. I agree on many fronts. I got the 330cfm spal - 6amp though. It blows like mad and I read that amperage is almost a better indicator of pull than CFM - based on different mfgs. as fan blade architecture is highly refined and the testing is very different.
very good posts. I agree on many fronts. I got the 330cfm spal - 6amp though. It blows like mad and I read that amperage is almost a better indicator of pull than CFM - based on different mfgs. as fan blade architecture is highly refined and the testing is very different.
One other thought about the fan vs. 30mph speeds is that I recall, the IC god Corky Bell stating that the 1st inch is where most of the fan cooling occurs. I speculate that this is for a couple of reasons. 1) The heat transfer from the IC to the air has made the air temp reductions negligible past the 1st inch 2) (more likely) the air pressure cannot effectively penetrate the 1st inch of the IC. The reason I think 2 is more likely is b/c when I ran my "test" the air coming from the back of the fan albeit warm, was not as hot as the IC temp (guessing). I may be wrong but we'll see.
Another consideration is that the back pressure from a closed hood may prevent the air from efficiently passing through the IC - something which the fan passes through.
Another consideration is that the back pressure from a closed hood may prevent the air from efficiently passing through the IC - something which the fan passes through.
Regarding the "1st inch" IC heat transfer conundrum, I'd be more inclined to lean towards reason #2, although I wouldn't call it air pressure; more like airflow velocity. As IC surface temps rise, you need more (i.e., "faster") airflow to effectively transfer that heat from the IC fins, and even the biggest fan won't come anywhere close to the airflow that speeds over 30 mph can produce.
I wish I had the room on the engine side of the IC to mount a larger fan like the Permacool unit, but I didn't want to wait months to get an M2/ASP medium IC, so I had to settle for a Greddy, whose intake routing is somewhat crowded. Nonetheless, much better than stock, and I'm not pushing huge boost numbers, so it's adequate.
#27
Brentis, we are getting deep into the subject now, I like it!
I am not an engineer, but the more electrical comsumption sounds to me to be a not so much efficient motor and has nothing to do with moving air or cooling ability.
The length, width and pitch of a blade is much more important for moving, air even more so than the amount of blades or electrical comsumption, IMHO.
The question now is, why does the industry measures in CFM and not based on current draw????
(Cubic feet per minutes)
Anyways, good discussion.
Have to agree that a vented hood would help tremendously by creating a low presure area behind the IC therefore increasing the cooling ability.
I am not an engineer, but the more electrical comsumption sounds to me to be a not so much efficient motor and has nothing to do with moving air or cooling ability.
The length, width and pitch of a blade is much more important for moving, air even more so than the amount of blades or electrical comsumption, IMHO.
The question now is, why does the industry measures in CFM and not based on current draw????
(Cubic feet per minutes)
Anyways, good discussion.
Have to agree that a vented hood would help tremendously by creating a low presure area behind the IC therefore increasing the cooling ability.
Last edited by Radical Rotary Avantgard; 04-21-03 at 11:12 AM.
#28
Rotary Enthusiast
flow reversal
Originally posted by Radical Rotary Avantgard
I have the SMIC M2 large with 2 Permacool 8 inches each. They are mounted in a pull air rather than push......
...... If you are on a stop and go situation they won't help much because they will pull the hot air from your radiator and heat up your IC core. Trust me when I tell you this. It was happening to me and I was stumped.....
I have the SMIC M2 large with 2 Permacool 8 inches each. They are mounted in a pull air rather than push......
...... If you are on a stop and go situation they won't help much because they will pull the hot air from your radiator and heat up your IC core. Trust me when I tell you this. It was happening to me and I was stumped.....
Same issue with just a smic fan on. car stopped, hot air will back flow thru rad, and find it's way to IC duct inlet. Ken, this will happen to u unless u have a very isolated IC air source.
M2 smic have best shot a proper fan fit. My thoughts to avoid smic heat soak when stopped or in traffic:
1) all, esp greddy, need a shroud like the oem ran fans. could be made from aluminum sheet. prevents flow reversal thru IC core outboard of fan. mabe 1/2" min standoff from the core back face.
2) rad fans should be run at low when IC fan(s) is on, to prevent backflow thru rad. The 'fan mod' switch will help, or a simple ground switch fro one of the contacts in the diagnostic connector (TAB?) this puts fans at low speed.
Regarding bottleneck, the smic smallish inlet duct opening is ususally the bottleneck, and as long as you match that area with fan 'open area' size, should not be a problem, even with shroud.
#29
Airborne, the answer is B.
In my post that is the subliminal message.
You only need the fans for cooling down the IC once it is heat soaked.
When you are at speeds over30 mph it won't do much but hamper flow.
The reason is because the air velocity at 30 mph or over is much more than that of your fan.
So, that is why at highway speed you don't see any improved difference.
In my post that is the subliminal message.
You only need the fans for cooling down the IC once it is heat soaked.
When you are at speeds over30 mph it won't do much but hamper flow.
The reason is because the air velocity at 30 mph or over is much more than that of your fan.
So, that is why at highway speed you don't see any improved difference.
#31
KevinK2, thanks for posting your explanation which validates what I was trying to explain here.
I read your post a while ago and it was clear then to me what was happening.
Agree that the major bottleneck is the narrow shroud opening for air.
I read your post a while ago and it was clear then to me what was happening.
Agree that the major bottleneck is the narrow shroud opening for air.
#32
Oldie, but Goodie
iTrader: (3)
When you see all those dyno charts on rwhp I wish I could also see what their intake air temps were. I'm sure they are a lot higher on the dyno than when they are driving down the road at 100mph. I'm sure those dyno numbers are really low compared to real world application when the IC is really working. What's the old "rule of thumb" for every 10F degrees cooler the intake you gain 1-2% more power.
#33
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Re: flow reversal
Originally posted by KevinK2
Regarding bottleneck, the smic smallish inlet duct opening is ususally the bottleneck, and as long as you match that area with fan 'open area' size, should not be a problem, even with shroud.
Regarding bottleneck, the smic smallish inlet duct opening is ususally the bottleneck, and as long as you match that area with fan 'open area' size, should not be a problem, even with shroud.
#34
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Here is one big pile of speculation. Have fun:
I doubt that the little IC fans will move enough air to push a signfiicant amount of air through the rad. Maybe a tiny bit (teeny-tiny bit) at standstill. But then when the water gets a little hotter, those fans will come on by themselves - So I don't see a lot of issues. It isn't air-air so there won't be heat soak issues in the radiator. If you have the PFC then lowering the temps those fans come on will help as well.
So "in conclusion" I believe it's more important to get the IC fan to trigger with the rad fans than the other way around - if you have an automated system. If you are going for an on/off switch for max cooling - then I agree - might as well trun them both on.
-----------------
regarding blocking flow w/ a rear mounted fan. The fan I have has minimal housing and sits 1/4 inch off the surface. The intake front end has a very small opening / when compared to the IC face. Airflow will already be fairly slow. I wish I had a better handle on flow, but at 60 mph, the air speed though the fins has to be much slower.
I doubt that the little IC fans will move enough air to push a signfiicant amount of air through the rad. Maybe a tiny bit (teeny-tiny bit) at standstill. But then when the water gets a little hotter, those fans will come on by themselves - So I don't see a lot of issues. It isn't air-air so there won't be heat soak issues in the radiator. If you have the PFC then lowering the temps those fans come on will help as well.
So "in conclusion" I believe it's more important to get the IC fan to trigger with the rad fans than the other way around - if you have an automated system. If you are going for an on/off switch for max cooling - then I agree - might as well trun them both on.
-----------------
regarding blocking flow w/ a rear mounted fan. The fan I have has minimal housing and sits 1/4 inch off the surface. The intake front end has a very small opening / when compared to the IC face. Airflow will already be fairly slow. I wish I had a better handle on flow, but at 60 mph, the air speed though the fins has to be much slower.
#35
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
From what I read... CFM is a marketing term like watts, and we all know how watts differ, further the comment about the motor efficiency is, per the article I read, a non-factor as motor efficiency hasn't change much if at all in the past 10 years. The article had similar statements about pitch angle.
One other thought, seeing how the radiator fans stay on at speed, wouldn't that tend to indicate something?? If they are not needed and impeed airflow, why hasn't someone designed a solution?
Just pondering..
One other thought, seeing how the radiator fans stay on at speed, wouldn't that tend to indicate something?? If they are not needed and impeed airflow, why hasn't someone designed a solution?
Just pondering..
#36
Brentis, lets do a subjective non scientific experiment lets match the fans out.
Lets get together and check out how much air is being pulled by placing the hand behind the fan on your IC and my IC fan and come back and report.
PM me or cal me 972-347-2070 h.
Will bring in Bob as a third party.
Lets get together and check out how much air is being pulled by placing the hand behind the fan on your IC and my IC fan and come back and report.
PM me or cal me 972-347-2070 h.
Will bring in Bob as a third party.
#39
King of the Duct Tape
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was pokin around the net and found the supercharged thunderbirds are frequently modified with an ic fan. this page details the before and after temps fairly well, scroll almost all the way to the bottom
http://www.sccoa.com/articles/cwintercooler.php
http://www.sccoa.com/articles/cwintercooler.php
#41
Brentis , I am not challenging you, so don't get me wrong.
I am just curious to see what fan realy pulls more air.
I have no problem changing mine, if yours works better.
So give me a call it won't take long 972-347-2070 h.
We can meet for coffee at Starbucks on Park and Preston.
Your call.
That article was way to much for me.
I'm not worthy!!
I am just curious to see what fan realy pulls more air.
I have no problem changing mine, if yours works better.
So give me a call it won't take long 972-347-2070 h.
We can meet for coffee at Starbucks on Park and Preston.
Your call.
That article was way to much for me.
I'm not worthy!!
#42
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Radical - I didn't even think that - no prob. My IC is currently not installed. I could bring the IC and car battery, but it would be easier if you would want to stop by my house. I'm on McDermott & Coit.
#43
I go by your hood to get to my office.
I'm an Orthodontist with an office on Independence & Spring Creek.
I"m off tomorrow just in case you want to get together for a few minutes.
Let me know.
I'm an Orthodontist with an office on Independence & Spring Creek.
I"m off tomorrow just in case you want to get together for a few minutes.
Let me know.
#45
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note on that jaycorptech:
i ordered the fan stuff on friday by 2 day air. got an email today saying since it didn't get out that day they bumped it up to next day for me so i'll have it today. thought that was pretty considerate.
i ordered the fan stuff on friday by 2 day air. got an email today saying since it didn't get out that day they bumped it up to next day for me so i'll have it today. thought that was pretty considerate.
#46
Oldie, but Goodie
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Originally posted by airborne note on that jaycorptech:i ordered the fan stuff on friday by 2 day air. got an email today saying since it didn't get out that day they bumped it up to next day for me so i'll have it today. thought that was pretty considerate.
I received an e-mail one hour ago with the UPS tracking number. I checked the tracking from UPS and it is scheduled to be delivered today UPS ground. I'd say that's good service. It was shipped from Des Moines, IA to Minneapolis, MN.
Ken
#48
Oldie, but Goodie
iTrader: (3)
I have an Omega gauge and 4 air temp probes. They are located in the K&N air filter, after the turbo, right after the IC and just before the intake after the water injection. I bought a small fan(5.6", 295 CFM) that uses 2.5 AMPs. It will only cover about 27% of the IC surface. My GReddy IC has a pipe that gets in the way for the pull type fan. If the numbers look good I might buy a bigger push fan for the other side to cover more of the surface area. It all depends on my test results. I can take pics, but have to learn how to post them.
#49
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pics are easy to post, just look towards the bottom of the window when you're doing a reply. and it has to be under about 100k.
will do on the pics, have only the pfc's intake temp to measure stuff.
LUV-are you saying you ordered a push style fan?
and bigger picture, why do you need a fan when you have water injection?
will do on the pics, have only the pfc's intake temp to measure stuff.
LUV-are you saying you ordered a push style fan?
and bigger picture, why do you need a fan when you have water injection?
#50
Oldie, but Goodie
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by airborne [B]pics are easy to post, just look towards the bottom of the window when you're doing a reply. and it has to be under about 100k.
will do on the pics, have only the pfc's intake temp to measure stuff.
LUV-are you saying you ordered a push style fan?
No, it's the pull one. I might add a push one on the front of the IC if my tests on the pull turn out really good.
why do you need a fan when you have water injection?
I would be using the fan to help heat soak at idling in traffic and to cool down the IC when car is stopped and turned off. My water injection will be kicking in only when I'm at 5psi boost and up.
Ken
will do on the pics, have only the pfc's intake temp to measure stuff.
LUV-are you saying you ordered a push style fan?
No, it's the pull one. I might add a push one on the front of the IC if my tests on the pull turn out really good.
why do you need a fan when you have water injection?
I would be using the fan to help heat soak at idling in traffic and to cool down the IC when car is stopped and turned off. My water injection will be kicking in only when I'm at 5psi boost and up.
Ken