You guys can check my sig. to see what I have in my car so far. As of right now I have in my room the fuel pump, front bumper, skirts, and midpipe is on the way. All of these will be on the car before spring time.

Their is a ton of other parts I want and need to buy but I cant seem to make up my mind. Spring is coming in a month and I already have the money for the paint/ install. Basically I need help figuring out the smartest parts to buy before the warm weather comes in.

I figured I should get the radiator and ic and ast soon. I also am a big drag fanatic so those would also be needed to keep me cooler. I need radials and LSD. I also wanted a vented hood to complete the body kit. Also do you guys feel I need to upgrade my injectors for my setup? I havent run with a mp yet so I have no idea what my inj. duty will be. Another problem I have is really bad wheel hop so I was looking into the petitt street/ strip drag setup. This is all things I am eventually gonna buy with alot more. I just dont want to get blinded by the parts I want over the ones I need.

Maybe their is others that I am forgetting. Feel free to enlighten me on anything you think I am doing wrong or if I am going in the wrong direction.

 

Definetly need the injectors 1300cc or 1600cc. Radiator wouldn't be that bad of a idea, although you could just hook your PFC to a datalogit and program the high fans to come on at 87 degrees celcius.

Look into a intercooler, stock mounted?

 

I would say go with an intercooler next. Also make sure you tune your PFC properly.

 

just read my mod list...Im at the next stage after you...or so.


j

ps..if you want more than 400hp in the end you will need to go with the 1600s and the rail....if you are happy with a number around 400 to shoot for then you can go with the 1300s.

IC and Radiator are the next two mods for ya. Im in agreement.

 

I would definately go with the radiator and ast if not already done then go on to do the fmic. my radiator went out and caused my motor to go and you dont want to pay the few g's it costs to get it out of the shop. i get mine back this week with a street port and new turbos cant wait gonna be a mini monster. also it depends on how much power you want to have at the end of you mods. i would still say radiator and ast. just in case.

 

I am planning on getting as much safe hp from the stock motor and turbos as possible. I run no more than 14-15psi when I run the car. Daily driven I keep it at 10psi. When I have a problem with the motor is when I will have it ported and change the turbos. I have very little miles on my car now so I am hoping a rebuild isnt in the near future.

So as for now I am looking for 380-400 hp stock and when I have the rebuild and new turbo maybe 450- 500hp. Those are just ruff numbers but in the ball park.

Thanks for the advice I figure I will get the radiator and ic at the same time and install em both being that I am working in the same area.

 

rad/Intercooler/and pullies dont forget all the little things like that if you want max hp from twins

 

Like the peanut gallery says:

1) Radiator
2) AST
3) Intercooler
4) Fire extinguisher
5) If you are not an R1/R2 Twin Oil cooler, otherwise upgrade them.
5) Vented hood
6) Injectors
7) Engine torque brace
8) Upgraded turbos
9) Upgraded PPF (Power Plant Frame)
10) Big Brake kit
11) If you are a 1/4 mile freak, upgrade tranny (4.77?????) and launch kit
12) If you are insane 1/4 freak, monster single and 75 NO2 shot to spool up said monster single.
13) When engine blows, bridgeport/streetport with ceramic seals
14) JATO unit

 

shouldnt you have had radials and LSD a loooooonnnng time ago???

 

I am pretty sure that all FDs come with a good LSD from the factory. Anyway, I would take the money that you are going to spend on paint and installing the body kit, save that for another day, and focus on the cooling and fuel system. I would do them both at the same time to minimize downtime and to avoid engine failure. What good is all that shiny **** when you have a blown engine? Be smart, make your car more reliable before you make unnecessary modifications.

 

I don't see how an lsd is really that important. The only reason I could see in getting one is if you break to stock LSD (which I did along with my axle) but if you do get an LSD I would watch out for whether you want a torsen unit or not (Kaaz is non-torsen). I didn't realize there was such a big difference until I had it put on. It pops a lot when you turn the wheel under low rpms. Almost as if you have a broken axle or differential.

 

Dragons ,what boost are you running? and what are your duty cycles on your PFC at full boost ?
we have similar mods,so curious to see if you hit 100% too?

While on topic,does anyone know when installing 1300/1600 injectors, do the stock twins have to come out? thx. C.

 

stlFD I already have the money for paint/ install. But by the time I put the car back on the road Ill have some of the other stuff I need as well. I have a month before I get her back on the road. By then I ll have the radiator and IC.

As for the LSD I am pretty sure I dont have a limited slip( I am a one tire frier). A guy I know who runs at the track broke his stock rear. He upgraded to I think a kaaz and he had no more wheel hop. His rx7 runs 11.5's.

mp5 I run on race gas between 14-15psi. I took my car on a dyno and had it checked on a wideband. At 13psi I was at 11.7 on the wideband and at 15 psi I was at 10.9.
As weird as that sounds. The PFC was compinsating for the extra boost. I love this unit. Anyway and the injector duty is around 70-80% if I remember right its been a couple months.

 

Your duty cycle is better than mine. with a y pipe, intake, downpipe, high flow cat, and exhaust @ 13 psi I was at 98.6% duty cycle.

I figure 850's all the way around should do me good at least until my street port with bnr's.

 

You spent all that money and didn't even get a radiator or intercooler?

 

The reason I havent got them yet is becasue I dont want to cut up the stock bumper to get the IC in. I got the after market one so the FMIC will have a good fit. I figured through the winter everything will be done. Its not a big deal because I am not driving the car...

Spring time everything I need will be done.

 

Greddy 3row FMIC
K2RD Fuel rail
1680cc Secondaries
SX FPR
Radiator (fluidyne,koyo)
FJO wideband( so you can say you put 80k miles on your original engine )
LSD (cusco,mazdaspeed,kaaz) pick your poison
Pettit 300M Axles
Pettit Toe Links and Trailing Arms

the toe links and trailings arms fixed alot of my wheel hop problems.

i think that list is about everything i would recomend to keep your car reliable. you would basically be copying boostn7's already proven setup.... you know 400rwhp and low to mid 11's on drag radials.

i would check your PPF now it is probably already cracked. if you don't want downtime. purchase another PPF and have a shop reinforce it with plate steel. i haven't broken my PPF since judge ito reinforced it.

that's about everything i can think of lol