If the temp needle hits the "H" how hot is the water temp?
07-17-07, 04:27 PM
#1
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If the temp needle hits the "H" how hot is the water temp?
If the temp needle hits the "H" how hot is the water temperature?
I did a search and cannot find an answer.
I did a search and cannot find an answer.
07-17-07, 04:35 PM
#4
Really damn hot the needle on the gauge cluster should be considered a dummy gauge by the time you can tell your too hot with it its usually to late I hate that damn gauge. I was reading 101C on my PFC and the gauge needle was just above the half way point so if it got all the way to the H thats is pretty freakin hot.
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07-17-07, 05:14 PM
#10
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Well the fans kick on, on a stock a FD (no PFC) at 100c. So with that, you could expect normal driving temps to reach around 105c pretty easily or higher during WOT or spirited driving. I personally like to keep the temps down below the 95c mark. I would think that a FD operating constantly above the 110c mark would be getting way to hot as far as street driving is concerned...tracking a car would probably see much higher temps around the 115c to 120c mark but I wouldn't recommend letting temps stay that high on the streets.
07-17-07, 06:36 PM
#12
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On the street with the 500R setup my temps have yet to get into triple digits, even when flogging the car.
07-17-07, 06:43 PM
#13
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Yes and probably is, but it could also be the water pump or your fans not kicking on and etc. But I would start with the thermostat since it's really cheap, fairly easy to replace and if it never has been replaced it's probably a good idea to go ahead and do it anyway.
07-17-07, 07:01 PM
#14
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In the good old days when I was tracking mostly stock FDs I'd let the PFC go to 112 which is about the point where the stock gauge starts to move.
I think the conversion is 1.8 x 112 + 32 = 233.6
so at around 234 or so the stock gauge will start to move which is a good time to take it easy hehe.
At 245 and higher for an extended period (probably as little as 5 minutes) you risk the chance of warping the aluminum rotor housings. The aluminum cools faster and the iron is thin when really hot but cools unequally across the face and then compression on the aluminum housing unevenly and warping can accur. Well atleast that's my take on it
Basically even though 245 isn't that hot it's crazy hot for a rotary and can permanently damage your engine.
I think the conversion is 1.8 x 112 + 32 = 233.6
so at around 234 or so the stock gauge will start to move which is a good time to take it easy hehe.
At 245 and higher for an extended period (probably as little as 5 minutes) you risk the chance of warping the aluminum rotor housings. The aluminum cools faster and the iron is thin when really hot but cools unequally across the face and then compression on the aluminum housing unevenly and warping can accur. Well atleast that's my take on it
Basically even though 245 isn't that hot it's crazy hot for a rotary and can permanently damage your engine.
07-17-07, 07:48 PM
#16
Rotary Enthusiast
Your gauge in the picture is reading about 240 F
If the temp reaches the white line below hot that's about 250F
Reading "H" is about 260 F
Don't ask me how I know this so well
FWIW I've had various FDs hitting 240F many a time but I've always backed off and let the motor cool down and never had a problem. I had one motor that probably saw spikes of 240F at time for several years and dozen of track days... however it did eventually die of a bad water seal.
However, as Fritz mentioned above... continual operation at that temp is not good.
My general rule of thumb is if the stock temp gauge moves off the standard centered position AT ALL back off the throttle ASAP and do a cool down lap.
If you are seeing these kinds of temp on the street then something is wrong with your cooling system most likely.
If the temp reaches the white line below hot that's about 250F
Reading "H" is about 260 F
Don't ask me how I know this so well
FWIW I've had various FDs hitting 240F many a time but I've always backed off and let the motor cool down and never had a problem. I had one motor that probably saw spikes of 240F at time for several years and dozen of track days... however it did eventually die of a bad water seal.
However, as Fritz mentioned above... continual operation at that temp is not good.
My general rule of thumb is if the stock temp gauge moves off the standard centered position AT ALL back off the throttle ASAP and do a cool down lap.
If you are seeing these kinds of temp on the street then something is wrong with your cooling system most likely.
07-18-07, 12:55 AM
#20
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=571088
scroll down a bit and youll see a pic of the gauge and around what temps are what... its the Big Fat FD cooling thread
scroll down a bit and youll see a pic of the gauge and around what temps are what... its the Big Fat FD cooling thread
07-18-07, 10:53 AM
#24
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Could be the fans or related to the fans. Higher speed has air flowing over the radiator without the need of fans...slow city driving doesn't generate a whole lot of natural airflow, so the fans are needed to create that airflow. Broken fans (or fans that aren't switching on correctly) might cause temps to go up when speeds are down. Just a guess
