first of all compression is fine and vac never flucuates below 18hg and fuel injecotrs have been cleaned ....all thats out of the picture

ok heres what happening...the only thing that i think may contribute to this problem is the removal of air pump and running on PFS Purple Box

- car runs perfect when started up cold..or on colder days
- when super hot outside idle drops from 900 to around 400-500 and sometimes will just randomly die...if i flip the fans on it drops really low like 250-300 and bounces but its still very smooth no apex seal compression roughness

- if i turn my cabin fan on 4 it smooths out to 700rpms

NOW WHEN TRYING TO ADJUST

i turned the screw on top of the throttle body and it moves the idle up to whatever i want but then it bounces back and fourth between 1200 (new setting) and old setting it just a cycle and then it shuts off and i have to turn the screw back

- i want to turn the screw under the throttle body but my oil filter is in the way so if i remov ethe oil filter which way do i turn it cuz ill have to adjust it with car off

- do i need to do the ten grnd?

 

the air pump routes air into the LIM as well...it's called secondary air injection. Without this air...wacky things could happen.

You can tune around it with the idle screws (but it will never be perfect with an ECU that is expecting secondary air injections)...your oil filter is wrong if it's in your way.

 

can someone please give me a detailed explanation on how these idle scews work...like i said whenever i adjust the top screw it just loops even with grnd and ten wired...and it only stops looping if i set it back to 400 or up to 1500