Idle Bouncing between 1k and 1.5k rpms Video/Pics Inside
06-25-12, 06:57 PM
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Idle Bouncing between 1k and 1.5k rpms Video/Pics Inside
So... I did the following....
Rebuild Turbos - Installed
HKS Downpipe - Installed
All New Gaskets - Installed to torque Specs
RC Enginnering stock Injectors - Installed
New rubber groomets for injectors as well as diffuser - Installed
New Vacumm Lines w/ silicone 3.5 and 6mm silicone - installed
New silicone raditator hoses and intercooler hoses - Installed
HKS silencer for the 7db reduction in noise - Installed
Anyways... after all this work... 2 things happened i broke my tps not knowing how to install it and one of the nipples from the short black 90 degree elbow ( the thinner diameter one) that connects to the primary turbo snapped. I used some grey silicone gasket around the nipple and added a straw so the air could still flow... pic below of the piece and the part that i broke...
Prior to breaking my TPS i posted that the idle was up to 4k... after adjusting it alittle bit it went down to 2200... after reinstalling the TPS according to this...http://www.rx7.org/Robinette/tps_adj.htm
And variations of it... the video shows you the rest.
My questions are...
Does it look like an air leak?
Could that nipple I broke be causing an air leak... even though Im 100% sure that air is not coming out from there...
P.S. The car was idleing perfect prior to removal...
Rebuild Turbos - Installed
HKS Downpipe - Installed
All New Gaskets - Installed to torque Specs
RC Enginnering stock Injectors - Installed
New rubber groomets for injectors as well as diffuser - Installed
New Vacumm Lines w/ silicone 3.5 and 6mm silicone - installed
New silicone raditator hoses and intercooler hoses - Installed
HKS silencer for the 7db reduction in noise - Installed
Anyways... after all this work... 2 things happened i broke my tps not knowing how to install it and one of the nipples from the short black 90 degree elbow ( the thinner diameter one) that connects to the primary turbo snapped. I used some grey silicone gasket around the nipple and added a straw so the air could still flow... pic below of the piece and the part that i broke...
Prior to breaking my TPS i posted that the idle was up to 4k... after adjusting it alittle bit it went down to 2200... after reinstalling the TPS according to this...http://www.rx7.org/Robinette/tps_adj.htm
And variations of it... the video shows you the rest.
My questions are...
Does it look like an air leak?
Could that nipple I broke be causing an air leak... even though Im 100% sure that air is not coming out from there...
P.S. The car was idleing perfect prior to removal...
06-25-12, 08:23 PM
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Voltage top wire at rest
Voltage top wire FUll THROTTLE
Voltage at rest on last wire
Voltage FULL THROTTLE on last wire
The picture below i did not touch throughout the rebuild
The picture below I touched ALOT I have no clue if its too tight or too loose i adjust it alot
This is the black 90 degree elbow on the primary turbo which i broke the nipple pictured.
Voltage top wire FUll THROTTLE
Voltage at rest on last wire
Voltage FULL THROTTLE on last wire
The picture below i did not touch throughout the rebuild
The picture below I touched ALOT I have no clue if its too tight or too loose i adjust it alot
This is the black 90 degree elbow on the primary turbo which i broke the nipple pictured.
06-25-12, 08:50 PM
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Video 1 Inside Cabin
http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/5858/rft.mp4
http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/5858/rft.mp4
06-26-12, 07:20 PM
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UPDATE!!!
I cleaned the AWS IAC ALL THOSE... No CHANGE...
So I simply stuck a towel on the bottom flap of the throttle body and it idled perfect 750-800 no crazyness... HOW DO I ADJUST THE BOTTOM FLAP TO CLOSE...
I cleaned the AWS IAC ALL THOSE... No CHANGE...
So I simply stuck a towel on the bottom flap of the throttle body and it idled perfect 750-800 no crazyness... HOW DO I ADJUST THE BOTTOM FLAP TO CLOSE...
06-27-12, 12:28 PM
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I got it running smooth at 950 to 1000 RPMS.
No Leaks were detected.
Here is the procedure for how to stop the bouncing idle.
1. Loosen the TPS
2. Remove the air plastic piece that attaches to the top of th eintercooler and the side of the TB
3. Place a flathead screwdriver on the bottom of the Throttle Body.
4. You are gonna have to adjust the tps and the air bleed on the throttle body at the same time until u hear and see the engine below 1000 rpms on the idle.
5. Right now my TPS is set at 900rpms
I need to tweak it a little but that is how you can adjust it.
No Leaks were detected.
Here is the procedure for how to stop the bouncing idle.
1. Loosen the TPS
2. Remove the air plastic piece that attaches to the top of th eintercooler and the side of the TB
3. Place a flathead screwdriver on the bottom of the Throttle Body.
4. You are gonna have to adjust the tps and the air bleed on the throttle body at the same time until u hear and see the engine below 1000 rpms on the idle.
5. Right now my TPS is set at 900rpms
I need to tweak it a little but that is how you can adjust it.
06-28-12, 09:18 PM
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okay soo... I got it to idle perfect at 750-800rpms... but when i turn the car off it needs some gas to start or it will just stall out trying to start... when i was adjusting the air bleed on the throttle body i only turn it back 2 turns s maybe ill try to back it off alittle more. also the fast idle screw is pushing all the way in as far as i could get it. any ideas... my tps is set at 1.00 closed and 4.96 open .4 closed on the last wire and 4.1 full throttle. any ideas of which on ei should adjust first?
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